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Media Blasting

Sand will work fine, the issue with sand is it has so much free silica that is released when blasted and this stuff is dangerous to the user. I've found that mixing a little abrasive with my plastic makes for a nice profile on the surface; perfect for painting. Also, plastic tends to retard the flash rust, but, if it's high humidity, you better get it in paint asap.
 
What about the black beauty sand..it doesnt have silica in it does it? How does it work? what about a dupont product called starblast..lil more expensive but is suppose to work better than black beauty..
 
I've never used either, but, know that it's out there. I try to stay away from too much aggressive media. Having a fast cutting media is the trick when you have a weak air compressor, you want to be able to peel layers of paint off, not that you have to do it that way, but being able to do it this way is key. It's all a balance of give and take, too aggressive media with too much air and pressure can and will warp panels, too little air and no aggressive qualities will put you way out there in time; doing a roadrunner fender in 8+ hrs is the norm in that game, not my game.
 
Thought I'd update this a bit...

I'm still here, doing the blasting. I've tried a few medias whereas before in this thread I stated I have not. Recently, I tried some of that coal slag stuff, it's cheap, and, it's very aggressive, and, it lasts just one time, and it left the metal some-what pitted vs the standard stuff I use. So, I won't be using that at all, ever.

The purpose of this thread is just to educate, I feel that once a person has all the facts, they will make a choice that is the best one for their location, purpose, and can get the best overall value.
 
I have used that "StarBlast" referenced a few posts up. WAY too agressive and left a terrible finish. I wouldn't use it on anything more sensitive than a ship hull.
 
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This is what they look like underneath after blasting. You can NEVER get it this clean with sandpaper and scrapers, and determine if the floor pans are decent to use!
 
Media Blast & Painters

It's definitely a fabulous way of exposing everything a car has wrong or right with it prior to painting not to mention how factory clean everything appears afterwards. However...... I have run into a few higher end painters over the years that won't paint a car that's been sand or media blasted. WHY? They say that no matter how through a prep job is prior to painting no one can get 100% of the sand or media out of all the knooks and crannies and construction holes within the body of the car. The sand or media will fluff into the paint somewhere when painting the car. Their complaint is that when this happens and they have to repaint a quarter a side rail or whatever; that the profit margin declines significantly and for some of them it simply isn't worth the risk. I guess it's worth the risk for the majority of restorations but someone usually pays.
 
It is a PITA to get the media out of the car, but, I roll the cars over a LOT, and with as much force as I can put into it, sling that **** out of it! Rocker panels are terrible, I tape up all the holes with Gorilla Glue Duct Tape, then sand those small areas down with paper after I'm done. If it's cleaned properly, you have a very good chance of no media getting into the paint, but, by the time you're ready for final paint the car likely (or should have) been on a rotisserie for primers, and body work. Usually in these stages any remaining media would come out here before final paint. But, the way I'm motivated to get the car clean of media is this; at $1.30 a lb for the stuff, it's gold, and I like mining!
 
Looks like an A body, 70-74 Duster.
I do know it's a 69 in up MOPAR by the side markers.
 
Donny, first and foremost, thank you for this thread. I’ve been looking for a shop somewhere nearby me that I could check out to see if they can be relied on to media blast my car. This thread has given me a lot to read, and a lot of knowledge so that I can at the very least ask the right questions when I finally find someone. It really makes me wish I was still stationed back in San Antonio. I’d trust my car in your hands any day.
 
Dodge, you are correct, it's a 70 Charger! How you can tell from this pic is amazing!

Friday, thanks, and hope it helps! That Charger had so many issues, just look what I uncovered! Paintshop ended up getting a whole new lower inner A Pillar off a donor car. The stitch-on of the qtr was covered with lots of filler, not a bad job I say!

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looks like that charger had a heavy rt. frt. collision at one time
 
hello donny,I have worked on many 68-70 b-bodys, drilled alot of
4 doors apart,could tell by the shape of the quarters,wish I lived
closer to you,because It is hard to find someone you can trust to
media blast anything without damage.
 
That's true with anything you sub contract out, but, having these cars myself, and, understanding the emotional attachment I have, and we get over these things, I seem to quickly assuage any fears the customer may have as I do the task as if it was on my own automobile. I've also recently found this to be true that potential customers that walk away and go to 'the other guy' (whomever that is) b/c he is 300 bucks cheaper or so usually are not so quality focused and detail oriented in their own projects. I have lost a few jobs b/c I am not cheap, but provide a fair and overall best-value price for services rendered -- but, sometimes it all just boils down to the bottom line dollar; but, if that's the case, I don't think the next phase the customer goes to will go too well; perhaps an argument like "that Epoxy Primer is too much", so, where does it all end, or, begin? If a potential customer tries to negotiate a price to where they think it 'should be', I tell them I don't get any discounts on electricity etc. And, to go get it done elsewhere -- I got a GTX that needs some attention!
 
donny looks great,, i use sand,, but with a very expensive breather!!
and stopping and taking photos is A MUST!! so clients dontthink you warped there roofs,, or trampolined the top!
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this ones gttting full frame rails, one piece trunk and maybe a front 1 pc floor also
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this ones getting full belly, frmaes rails and floors
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37 packard parts:
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and one of my own projects:
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donny you do great work!!
 
i use a new product out, called CRE, Corossive Resistant Epoxy

It goes down heavy,, and is sandable, great for frames axles, etc,, it fills the small pits about $100/gal, a set up,, 3:1:1(zylene) its like dp90 but sandable, and fills.. and you can lay it down up to 4 coats, to build a frame up,, then sand it down to 320, , then go to finally paint,, like i said good for frames, and heavy parts,, epoxy etc then slick sand is what i use on cars, eventually,, and yes, i'm in columbus ohio,, and we get MOIST around here!!
 
mine is a M20,,, in epoxy,,99% parts are there,, , it is for sale, 35K

its funny, i thought NO one would know what the heck it was!!
 
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