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Modern Bullitt build

I received the new RMS rear sway bar kit today just in timebefore I bend the fuel lines. I will locate the sway bar mounts first, so I canroute the lines around them. This kit has been in the works for over a year andit was worth the wait! It is a great looking kit and very reasonably priced!
Thanks
Pat



 
I put the rear back in the car so I could fit the new RMSsway bar. The sway bar kit fit great after I quickly figured out it is a rearmount system. All the RMS sway barprototypes I saw at Carlisle had front mounts. Bill said the kit will work withTTI 3” exhaust and it does look to have more than enough room.
Thanks
Pat


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I almost finished the fuel lines this weekend. Just one S/S lineleft to make and a few hose.
Thanks
Pat


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Just sick, disgustingly sick!!!!

Yeah, that's a compliment!!
 
I almost finished the fuel lines this weekend. Just one S/S lineleft to make and a few hose.
Thanks
Pat
Nice work! Is there one bend tool for all sizes of lines or one for each size? I'm gonna take my old fuel line out now, should I bend new lines after the old one or is it better to do it in place on the body?
 
Nice work! Is there one bend tool for all sizes of lines or one for each size? I'm gonna take my old fuel line out now, should I bend new lines after the old one or is it better to do it in place on the body?

The Parker benders I use, there is one tool for each size tubing. If you are going to make your new line in the same run as the original then order a new line from one of the suppliers. If you need two lines (2nd for the return) then I would not follow the original run.
Thank you
Pat

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Just sick, disgustingly sick!!!!

Yeah, that's a compliment!!

Thank You ;-)
 
The Parker benders I use, there is one tool for each size tubing. If you are going to make your new line in the same run as the original then order a new line from one of the suppliers. If you need two lines (2nd for the return) then I would not follow the original run.
Thank you
Pat

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Thank You ;-)

Thanks, I'll check out that tool. Yes, I'm gonna run a return line also, would you run it much different from stock?
 
Thanks, I'll check out that tool. Yes, I'm gonna run a return line also, would you run it much different from stock?

If you have frame connectors installed I would run both lines on the inside of the frame connectors
 
If you have frame connectors installed I would run both lines on the inside of the frame connectors
Yes, I do, good thinking, a much easier run than stock, I see how you did yours, I will do that, thanks!
 
I finished the rear fuel lines and all that is left is the MuchII tank vent system.
Thanks
Pat


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Before removing the fuel line I made an AC condensationdrain and fire wall pass-through.
Thanks
Pat


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Installed the II Much vent canister, starting with punchingout a 2 ½” hole where there was a 1 ¾” body plug using a knockout punch tool. Thisis a clean way to put holes into steel panels. Then I bent a 3/8” S/S vent linerunning downhill to the two tank vent fittings. I step closer to starting thebodywork.
Thanks
Pat


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More beautiful work, I swear you put more effort into plumbing than most do in their bodywork haha.
 
After you see stuff done the wrong way it makes it easier to do it right the first time because it saves time and a head aches
 
Re-reading this thread, and trying to type with a fooked up middle finger full of stitches, but, this is not your average hobbyist build! Pat, what is your background and job/experience? I got to say, there's a ton of money tied up in this car, I'd say a good 50k so far! One thing I think you should have done is a complete media blast; not soda nor sand. Reason is of course the metal gets clean, but it 'punches' at the metal finding weak areas that would never be discovered. Your repairs by your rear window are great, but, I promise you that there likely is more weak and compromised metal back there and other areas in same condition. I say this with about 100 MOPARS I've Media Blasted, and about a dozen GenII Chargers.

The Alterkation; the Inner Fender bracing; Im curious if removing the complete factory system of sending energy through the Torsion Bars to the center section of the car compromises too much of this natural balance -- and can the inner bracing you added replicate this and does this new system transmit to much energy -- and into the upper cowel area, meaning can this area handle it, an area clearly with little to no structural designed systems to handle this new and incoming energy from the road?

Again, this is no average Joe Blow hobbyist build!
 
Donny,
This is my hobby, and therapy ;-) This will be the 5th car that I have completely disassembled and rebuilt. The first was a 64 Pontiac GTO that I did a frame off and slightly modified back in 1986. Sold that car in 89 just before my first son was born. Did not get back into restoring cars until 2006 when I purchased a 1968 Dodge charger to restore. Next was a 1972 numbers matching Pontiac Trans Am. First and only car that I restore exactly as it was new. Then my younger son and I restored a 1968 Mustang fastback as a Bullitt replica. And now I'm more than halfway into my second 1968 Dodge Charger. I'm currently looking for the next project which will be a late 30-40 woody that my wife would like to restore with me.

For 35 years I have sold and worked on Bertrams and Fleming yachts. Working closely over those years with a brilliant naval architect, Who taught me most of what I know.

Media blasting may still happen? If not soda what media do you recommend? Leaving the car painted this past year or so has made it easy for me to control the surface rust while all the modifications have been going on. But I'm getting close to starting the bodywork so all of the paint will be coming off soon.

As for the new front suspension I have no concerns over the structural integrity of the front of this car with the new suspension. As you know this is not a new system it's been around for quite a few years and I have a few friends with the B bodies that have the suspension on their car and they been very happy with the system.

Thank you!
Pat/Average Joe ;-)

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More beautiful work, I swear you put more effort into plumbing than most do in their bodywork haha.

Let's hope that is also true with my body work ;-)
thank you!
Pat
 
True on the Alterkation having been around for a few years time, still curious about my questions, but, Im sure the engineering is solid, just wondering. For media blasting, well, depends who is available in your neck of the woods! Look at this soda can, and study it, I can tell you're a clever fellow, the pattern of blast on the can is indicitive of the process you should want for your car. You can tell there is larger and heavier media particles impacting the thin aluminum, and the paint coming off the can. I did this, and took this picture too. This is from Plastic, with a varied size mixture of medias -- which I've found works the best. IMG_1678.jpgIMG_4565.jpg
 
The plastic bits look like a really cool (pun intended) form of media for stripping paint. I suppose you would need to capture the media as it would not be very good environmentally?

I think to help answer your question as to the changes of load on the front end with the RMS suspension. If you have media blasted older mustangs you would've seen a lot of similarities to the construction of the front half of the mustang compared to a B body Mopar. Both cars are unibody construction but there are two big differences between the two cars. The inner fenders and frame rails are not nearly as strong or robust on the mustang as they are on the Mopar, and the Mustang is a coil spring suspension, it distributes all the load on the inner fender and frame rail unlike the Mopar suspension that distribute the load to the trans crossmember. I also think that the cowl air box in its construction basically boxing out a very large chamber adds a tremendous amount of strength to the upper firewall. My two cents ;-)
thank you!
Pat
 
Plastic media I recapture and reuse about 10 times before it goes to dust. True on the Air Plenum/box, that's true it is a large chamber and those usually are pretty strong! Yes, I am familiar with the Mustangs, IMHO a slightly better design; more galvanized sheet metal, seat platforms, and the Mustang frame rails are like 3-4 times the size of Mopar units. And, Mustangs are WAY cheaper to build than our Mopars are!
 
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