Modern Bullitt build

[Homstead]

That's looking great!

 

[soundcontrol]

Impressed by your skills! Did you sandblast the car at any point, or did you clean it all by hand?

 

[keepat]

Impressed by your skills! Did you sandblast the car at any point, or did you clean it all by hand?

I had the doors, fenders, trunk, and hood soda blasted but not the body. I have sanded and cleaned it by hand. I find sanding and cleaning small section (18" x 18") at a time keep it from getting overwhelming.
Thank You!

Pat

 

[keepat]

The RMS suspension requires a few holes drill throughthe frame and they tell you not to over tighten these bolts so you don’t collapsethe frame. So I welded in 2 reinforcements to help prevent that from happening.The 1/8” plate is welded on both sides.
Thanks
Pat

 

[HawkRod]

Nice execution and nicely done!

Approved! (As if I have a right to say that!!! :grin

 

[keepat]

Nice execution and nicely done!

Approved! (As if I have a right to say that!!! :grin

Your approval is appreciated, Thank you!
Pat

 

[Centerline]

I'm watching this thread with interest, envy, and astonishment. I'm just starting the deconstruction of my '64 Polara and although its not going to receive the amount of mods this one is, I'm just hoping it comes out half way as nice. Wonderful work... and don't think I'm not jealous either. :icon_salut:

 

[keepat]

I'm watching this thread with interest, envy, and astonishment. I'm just starting the deconstruction of my '64 Polara and although its not going to receive the amount of mods this one is, I'm just hoping it comes out half way as nice. Wonderful work... and don't think I'm not jealous either. :icon_salut:

Thanks for following along, I'm sure your Polara will come out awesome, I look forward to seeing your build thread on it.
Thank you!
Pat

 

[keepat]

I started filling all of the unused holes in the engine welland have the left inner fender and core support finished, so far over 50 holes.
Thanks
Pat

 

[soundcontrol]

Nice! I was just searching for tutorials to fill holes, since I have a lot of them, found this.
Is that a good way or do you have any better tricks? How big of a hole before you have to make a plug?

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug6qnJhIngs&ab_channel=Weld.com

 

[keepat]

Nice! I was just searching for tutorials to fill holes, since I have a lot of them, found this.
Is that a good way or do you have any better tricks? How big of a hole before you have to make a plug?

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug6qnJhIngs&ab_channel=Weld.com

I used a mig welder for the holes I filled and I find working with 20g steel that holes smaller than 1/4"you can back with a piece of copper and weld over, anything larger than that I'll make a metal plug. With the larger holes hold the mig at 45 to 60 degree.
Thanks
Pat

 

[keepat]

I’ve had a few people ask how I remove the paint, clean themetal and finish off the welds, so I thought I do little right up and somepictures on what has worked for me.

In the engine bay I have found a heat gun and wirewheel on a drill works great removing the paint and original primer from all thenooks and crannies. I like using a 12” quick change extension to hold the wirewheels. The advantage of the drill over a grinder is you can change thedirection of the drill which allows the wirewheel to work more aggressivelyremove the paint and primer. With theheat gun I blister about 6”x6” of paint and while it is still hot I use thewirewheel to remove that section ofpaint, it goes quick and no fine dust.

Here is a before and after of the firewall using only theheat gun and wirewheel.

Here I’m welding over the wire harness plug hole. After tackwelding the cover in place I grind down most of the welds before finishing thewelding, this helps keep the heat down and make it easier to connect the weldas thickness of the metal is similar to the welds.

I like to use a 90 degree Die grinder with 2” 36 grit discto take the welds down. Keep it moving and always use new disc when workingsmall areas as worn disc will just heat the metal instead of cutting the welddown. When the welds are mostly cut downyou can hammer and dolly the panel flat and then finish off the leftover weldwith a 60 grit disc.

Note before hammer and dolly the panel you will need togrind down the weld on the back side!

The last thing I do is use a 6” random orbital sander with a¾” foam pad and 100 grit paper to clean the metal.
Thanks
Pat

 

[Average Joe]

I really like your fab!! Are you running a pulse on your Mig Or finger pulsing.Clean Welds.Awesome Fab.

 

[keepat]

I really like your fab!! Are you running a pulse on your Mig Or finger pulsing.Clean Welds.Awesome Fab.

No pulsing option on my mig so it quick finger pulls for the welds.
Thank You!
Pat

 

[Average Joe]

Nice! I do the Same thing.LOL

 

[showard]

I enjoy checking up on this build. Pat you are doing a great job (as always). I like the pointers that you give, they are helpful.

 

[keepat]

The paint is removed and all the unused holes are welded upin the engine bay and ready for epoxy primer.
Thanks
Pat

 

[keepat]

I had a mold made of the front bumper guard mount so Icould make a carbon-fiber version of it. The steel mount weighs about 6 lbs andthe carbon-fiber replacement will weigh about 1 lbs. After I pull the 1[SUP]st[/SUP]part I’ll post a few pictures and if anyone is interested I could make a fewmore? I think I will paint mine black to look original but they could be leftclear to show the carbon-fiber if you like?
Thanks
Pat

 

[mopar4don]

I might be interested?

 

[keepat]

Cool! I’m only going to make a few to cover the costto make the mold and materials. I will know the price after the 1[SUP]st[/SUP]part is pulled.
Thanks
Pat