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Modern Bullitt build

That's nice very sharp looking great work
 
With the car completely epoxy primed I applied all the seam sealer on the exterior panels, starting with the roof drip rail. After sanding with 220 and a Scotch-Brite pad, l taped both the drip rail and roof to control the edge of the seam sealer. Using a product from 3M called Fast & firm #08505 I tooled it in using my finger and little lacquer thinner to keep i pliable. This Fast & Firm is easy to use and works great for paint or a vinyl top. I saved a small section of the original seem sealer to maintain the same shape.
Thanks
Pat

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I'm excited for you to be at this point. You're in the home stretch on this one! Keep the updates coming.
 
Nice job, I did the same on the last seam sealing job I did. Makes for a nice tidy finish. Car is looking fantastic.
 
Not much to show the last two weeks as I've been out of town but I did get some more some seam sealer done around the trunk and quarters.
Thanks
Pat


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Finished up 90% of the seam sealer including a lot of areas the factory did not do that I had to use a pick tool prior to priming to remove the stones, grease and grime from the past 50 years. The beige seam sealer is 3M's fast and firm #08505. Easy-to-use, you can smooth out with a wet finger and 2 hours later you can clean up any mistakes with a rag and lacquer thinner.


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I've been laid up for a few weeks with some hernia surgery but I use this downtime to work on modifying the woodgrain steering wheel for the car. I love the look of the woodgrain wheel but driving my silver charger it was never comfortable handling the steering wheel as it's so thin. So I decided to modify this wood wheel to have a much larger modern size grip. I did not want to enlarge the diameter of the wheel as there already a little large compared to modern cars so I moved the inner ring in by about 3/8 of an inch. To do this I had to cut the S/S inner ring at all three spokes and weld it smaller in diameter and then Cut a new slot in all three spokes to hold the ring in its new location. While I have the steering wheel out for re-plating the spokes I need to brainstorm how I'm going to remake the larger plastic wood grain handle??? Suggestions welcomed!
Thanks
Pat
















 
Still making progress just not a lot of photogenic things show. A lot of boring sanding to prep the bottom and engine well for base-coat clear-coat.
Thanks
Pat


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That's all the stuff nobody appreciates, but you. Believe me....I know.
 
Very nice Pat! How many coats of each, and what type of paint do you use?
 
Very nice Pat! How many coats of each, and what type of paint do you use?

Last two cars I used DuPont chroma-base but I may switch to PPG on this car as I like the black options a little better?? As for number of coats, after the primer and a epoxy sealer it will get two coats of sealer, 3 coats of base and 4 to 5 coats of clear.
Thank you
Pat
 
just found this thread and OMG. Thanks for documenting this build. A true work of art sir.
 
Last two cars I used DuPont chroma-base but I may switch to PPG on this car as I like the black options a little better?? As for number of coats, after the primer and a epoxy sealer it will get two coats of sealer, 3 coats of base and 4 to 5 coats of clear.
Thank you
Pat
Wow! thats a lot of coats, cant wait to see... Is that the norm? Or is it gonna be a show car with a super shine even under?
 
Wow! thats a lot of coats, cant wait to see... Is that the norm? Or is it gonna be a show car with a super shine even under?

I'm not sure what is or isn't normal but that's how l did the last two cars. B body are big cars and I'm thinking this car will use a little more than 1 1/2 gallons of base before it mixed, and about 3 gallons of clear.
Thanks
Pat
 
Keepat, this thread is so helpful, thank you so much for coming here and posting your progress and howto's. Nearly everything you've done is exactly what I want to do to my Charger, I even have many of the parts already, such as the rear suspension and all the stiffining pieces....

Couple questions if you dont mind, I love the stance pic you posted early on, its spot on how I want mine, Ive heard of several Chargers needing their tunnel raised to get that low, when you set your stance did you take that into account?

Also, did you have to modify the rear suspension to allow for the LCA to move inward from the stock location? I have a similar suspension kit but its from ridetech, I have the minitub kit and the spring relocation kit, but Im worried that with moving the front spring mount and moving the perch in that it might bind the suspension up because its designed for the stock location.

Thank you in advance and thank you again for your great thread.
 
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