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Mounting/Install of a fuel pressure gauge on cowl?

wedge5

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Last year when I took the car out it felt like it was nosing over on the top end. I would like to see what my fuel pressure is during the run so I am looking into mounting a fuel pressure gauge on the cowl of my 65 Coronet. I will also be adding a A/F gauge soon also but 1st things 1st.

I have a flare cap on the end of my fuel line now so do I just tie into that an run the steel braided line to the gauge on the cowl? The fuel rail end is -08and the braided line I saw for this set up is -04. How do I reduce it that much OR is there another fuel line kit I am missing?

Ideas? Suggestions on a good fuel pressure gauge. Install pics. Mounting location suggestions or just anything about this subject would be great.
 
I don't know if you can pass tech with a mechanical fuel gage on the cowl. I know they don't allow them on the firewall - unless of course it has an isolator in front of it. You may need to look at an electronic gage and sender set up or install an isolator.
 
No problem with nhra tech and cowl mounted gauge!has to have copper or braided line,can't run in the interior.
 
Wasn't sure about the cowl mount. Thought I did see where they couldn't go on the firewall either without an isolator?
 
here you go, hope this helps. i took 2 6" long strips of 5/16 aluminum flat-stock, drilled and tapped the bottom strip. cut a slit with a dremel along the edge of wiper cowl to slide the strip in..... works for me ! the hose looks wierd in the last pic, but its fine, not kinked. had to notch the underside of my glass hood ....
 

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65-440: Where do you have the fuel gauge line going to?
 
I had 2 fuel,1 NOS pressure and the boost gauge on the cowl:tongue8:
 

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OK I geuss my next questions are:

1: Isolator or non-iso
2: Gauge steel braided line going to the fuel rail, to reg or either one?

I need it to meet NHRA tech so let me know how to get it done correctly.
 
OK I geuss my next questions are:

1: Isolator or non-iso
2: Gauge steel braided line going to the fuel rail, to reg or either one?

I need it to meet NHRA tech so let me know how to get it done correctly.

1- Only need iso if you want the gauge inside the car.
2- Either one,but if you need to buy new I would reccomend the cotton braided 'cause it is lighter.Depending on your needs,you can use aluminum fuel line from fuel tank to regulator.

What fuel pump are you using?What size fuel line from tank to pump & pump to regulator?Did you do a proper plug reading after a "noseover" pass?Before I went to boost over 10 years ago,I went from a small Holley pump to a BG 400 and picked up 4 tenths in the 1/4!Now I have a Magna Fuel 500 and will feed my hungary elephant with whatever I can throw at it:munky2:
 
Thanks. I thought the Iso. was for in car use but wanted to make sure. I did like you said. I ran Aluminum line from tank to reg. It looks like I will have to come off of my reg. with the gauge line because I can't find a -8 to -4 reducer. The end of my fuel rail is a -8. I gues I could use 2 reducers but that seems a little rigged.

Thanks for the help.
 
What fuel rail is it?Does the exsisting fitting come out?If so then a pipe to an adapter may be used.:idea1:
 
Is that the same kind of copper tubing that goes to the oil pressure gauge?

Teeing off of the back carb is what I plan on doing also.

Thanks guys I think I got the idea now.
 
Is that the same kind of copper tubing that goes to the oil pressure gauge?

Teeing off of the back carb is what I plan on doing also.

Thanks guys I think I got the idea now.


yes, right off the rear carb fuel line, close to the firewall. short run right to the gauge.
What i did was get the an to an female ends and splice the line midway,put in the adapter,then go to the gauge with the copper tubing. cheap,inexpensive and neat.justbe careful with the 1/8 fitting at the coupler and bending the copper tubing too much. you'll go through the 1/8" copper ferruls like water.I keep a pack of 10 in my trailer, for race track Murphy's Law incidents.ask me how i know.
 
Would it be easier to just use a steel braided line and not mess with the copper 1/8 ferruls? Your right though, the copper line kit is cheap.

I thought about running it into the cowl area and up through the grating if I ran the copper tubing.
 
would it be easier to just use a steel braided line and not mess with the copper 1/8 ferruls? Your right though, the copper line kit is cheap.

I thought about running it into the cowl area and up through the grating if i ran the copper tubing.


yes thats how i do it and its not a bulky braided hose back there interefering with your hood.
 
copper tubing is cheap, but the AN is not that bad. Igot both my -4AN braided hoses w/fittings for both oil and fuel gauge from speedwaymotors.com for under $50 ! way cheaper than building your own lines ..... plus they are really nice peices
 
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