My 1967 Belvedere Convertible Plans and Restoration (aka - Mad Scientist Build)

[conv67bdere]

It was a sweat-fest, but I got out in the shop ( ok, the back yard ) and got to work on one of my trunks . . .

The previous owner had a spare 67 trunk, that he had on his 66, and gave it to me when he got a real 66 trunk ( no, I don't know the difference . . . )

So, he cut up the trunk ( as seen below ) for some reason ( probably to fit his 66 . . . ) . . . my plan is to make this one smooth . . .

Marked out the lines with tape for cutting with the 4" angle grinder w/ a cutoff wheel . . . ( ok, it's already cut here - but you see the idea )

Removed the cut out pieces and the remaining single hole should be much easier to path then the cobbled up hole ( as see on the top photo )

got one pic with the tape still in place - and the driver side hole cut out . . .

Here's a left over piece of the driver quarter panel that was cut out of my car and replaced ( yes, I reuse a lot of the old metal - I like it better than the new stuff )

Made sure that I made my measurements correct - marked it with a piece of tape - along the contour of the rear panel . . . ( you'll see )

On the tape measure you can see that it's slightly over 3" in length . . .

however, if you measured the hole straight from side to side . . . it's reading 2 7/8 - you'd be off by 3/16 of an inch . . . tab bit to weld and not warp the panel . . .

after cutting and rolling the new metal in the roller - to get the contour of the pane ( at least get it close . . . ) it's a "bit much" . . .

removing the roll is simple, tap on the center of the roll a bit till it flattens out as needed . . . and you get the shape of the panel as needed . . . time to weld . . .

cleaned off all of the holes on the panel so that it'l be ready for welding . . . and I was swimming in my t-shirt . . .

 

[conv67bdere]

One more thing - that kinda irritated me, was the fact that the previous owner did this . . .

looks like he placed a piece of tape on the rear panel ( you can see the lines - top and bottom ), then painted over it. When I was clearing the paint the hole just "showed up" from nowhere, as the holes had nothing in them to prevent them from popping through . . . good thing I got this extra trunk for free . . . the holes were for the PLYMOUTH lettering on the trunk.

My "other" trunk lid has the full panel on it . . . not sure if I'm going to go with it or the smooth look . . . yet . . .

All of the holes in this trunk will be welded shut and the whole trunk lid will be made smooth . . .

 

[conv67bdere]

More work, and more of the sweat-fest down here in NC . . . hot and humid . . .

First thing . . . fitment of the replacement metal into the openings . . . until they'll fit as needed . . .

Welded up the holes for the PLYMOUTH emblems, and got them ground down already . . . happy with the results so far . . .

Got both of the replacement metal patches welded into place . . . and ready for the grinding, and more grinding, and more grinding . . .

The driver side is moving along . . . slowly but surely . . . until I get to the primer and sanding with the long block, can't tell for sure how well it turned out
( but nothing that a little BFH can't fix ( if needed ) )

got some body lines in the trunk panel . . . sure hope that I've got them close enough to be able to "coax" them where they need to go . . .

 

[Budnicks]

Nice patch job

 

[Mike67]

Looks good Larry!

 

[747mopar]

I've seen it all now! Tape it, paint it, F@$& it... lol. That's some clever bodywork they did on your truck.

Glad to see your getting things done even if it is miserable, much the same here only with a lot of rain... finally cooled off a bit this week. Nice patch work on the trunk, are you planning something different for rear lights?

 

[conv67bdere]

Time to update the weekend work, and tonight's work on the trunk lid . . . making some progress . . . ( cooler weather helps too )

Finished welding up all of the holes . . . and patching the big openings . . .

How many layers of paint is on this car trunk lid . . . ( excluding his tape and paint job ) . . . I'm counting 9 layers ? ?

Stripped the rear of the panel down to bare metal for epoxy primer . . .

Well . . . forgot that I had this "better" picture of the rear of the trunk lid . . . so you get 2 pics . . .

First coat of epoxy primer on the bare metal . . . yes, I can still run this crap like the best of them . . .

Round one of the bodywork - on the entire rear of the panel . . . getting the mess "dialed in" . . .

This is actually round 3 on the bodywork . . . wax on, wax off . . . ( slop on, sand off . . . )

Been focusing on the top portion of the panel and it's really coming along nicely . . . still got the concave area and the bottom part to get attention . . .

And I've added a little accessory to the shop . . . oh boy does this make a WORLD of difference . . .
( of course - as soon as I installed it the temps down here dropped 15 degrees . . . so I work outside in the yard . . . )

And yes . . . that's exactly how much room I have to walk behind the car with the nose ( less bumpers and fender ) touching the garage door . . . ) . . . and now with the window unit in place, I better not be gaining any weight or I will not be able to "squeeze" through behind the car . . . it's already tight now . . . LOL

 

[conv67bdere]

Round 4 is in the books . . . and it's getting close . . . I was told when I think it's done, to go over it one more time . . .

I'm not there yet, but I'm pretty happy ( for not knowing what in the World I'm doing ) with the results as of now . . .

Still thinking of welding in the lock hole, as I will be installing a remote trunk release in the cabin for the trunk . . .

That will make the whole lid smooth . . . so I add a little more work to my project . . . ( LOL )

 

[Forklift]

Nice work on the floor. We had to replace mine from firewall to the rear bumper.

 

[conv67bdere]

Got round 5 and 6 in the books, and got another coat of Epoxy, plus some high build primer on the rear of the trunk lid . . .

. . . and it's coming along nicely ( I think )

Kinda a side view of the lid . . .

Still got a couple, very little spots, that still need to be finessed . . . but it's coming along nicely . . .

 

[Forklift]

Looks great the high build primer works great for blocking

 

[Mike67]

Got round 5 and 6 in the books, and got another coat of Epoxy, plus some high build primer on the rear of the trunk lid . . .

. . . and it's coming along nicely ( I think )

View attachment 497015

Kinda a side view of the lid . . .

View attachment 497016

Still got a couple, very little spots, that still need to be finessed . . . but it's coming along nicely . . .

View attachment 497017

Looks really nice Larry! Just out of curiosity how much epoxy have you gone through so far? My bodyworking skillset will be less than what yours is, but my conviction to do it myself is its equal!
I had planned on ordering 2 gals when im ready to start stripping. I figured if I knew what I was doing it would probably take 1-1 1/2 gals for engine bay, pans and exterior, but alas I was only blessed with rugged good looks from birth and deprived of the knowledge for body work

 

[kb67mopar]

I think you've hit pro status sir.

 

[conv67bdere]

Looks really nice Larry! Just out of curiosity how much epoxy have you gone through so far? My bodyworking skillset will be less than what yours is, but my conviction to do it myself is its equal!
I had planned on ordering 2 gals when im ready to start stripping. I figured if I knew what I was doing it would probably take 1-1 1/2 gals for engine bay, pans and exterior, but alas I was only blessed with rugged good looks from birth and deprived of the knowledge for body work

At least one of us got the "rugged good looks" . . . it wasn't me ! LOL

Remember, this is the first time I've done bodywork . . . it's trial and error going on over here . . . lot of reading and you-tube video watching ( to try and learn ) . . .

Mike, I've used a full gallon so far, and I'm on the next 1/2 gallon - probably going to need to get yet another to put me at 2 gallons . . . I'm trying to make sure that epoxy primer is used as the base over all bare metal. When I'm sanding panels, and I break through, I try and shoot it again with Epoxy to cover the bare spots - before putting on the high build primer. I'm still only sanding with 120 grit, got more work yet to do with high build primer and sanding with 320 and 400 grits . . . it's starting to make some sense to me as I keep sanding ( and I'm going to look like Popeye when I'm done ) . . .

 

[conv67bdere]

Hate to admit it, nut I might be getting a better understanding of this bodywork process . . . ( shhh . . . don't tell anyone . . . )

Got out the 220 paper, and the trunk lid that had high build primer applied last night - plenty of time to dry too . . .

Circled a couple of the spots that are showing up . . . there are not many ( that would be a good thing ).

When you use a nice long block, the low spots are pretty obvious and will jump out at you - as seen below . . .
I'll either put some glazing compound on the areas and sand them, or hit them again with the high build . . .

The only thing I hate is when I break through to metal, that mean shooting those areas again with Epoxy Primer . . .

 

[conv67bdere]

First had to say good-bye to a good friend.
My friend that sold me the 66 Shoe Box - passed last week - and 69 is way too young.
He will be missed by many people . . . he was a good man . . .

More work on the trunk . . . still working on the trunk stripping . . . made good progress today . . .

Took over an hour to get the first half done . . . was not sure I'd hold up to get the second half done . . .

But I did . . . and now it's all down to metal and ready for a coat of Epoxy Primer . . .

 

[HYRDGOON]

We seem to be reminded life is too short far too often. Keep doing good work buddy so you have years to enjoy that baddass vert you're building

 

[747mopar]

Sorry for your loss Larry, it's nice that you have the Nova to keep the memory alive though.

 

[747mopar]

At least one of us got the "rugged good looks" . . . it wasn't me ! LOL

Remember, this is the first time I've done bodywork . . . it's trial and error going on over here . . . lot of reading and you-tube video watching ( to try and learn ) . . .

Mike, I've used a full gallon so far, and I'm on the next 1/2 gallon - probably going to need to get yet another to put me at 2 gallons . . . I'm trying to make sure that epoxy primer is used as the base over all bare metal. When I'm sanding panels, and I break through, I try and shoot it again with Epoxy to cover the bare spots - before putting on the high build primer. I'm still only sanding with 120 grit, got more work yet to do with high build primer and sanding with 320 and 400 grits . . . it's starting to make some sense to me as I keep sanding ( and I'm going to look like Popeye when I'm done ) . . .

I always keep a rattle can of self etching primer laying around. It's an easy way to cover up small areas where you break threw without mixing up the epoxy.
The A/C will help tremendously especially if you run it full time with humidity.

 

[Brandy]

Kahn, your doing "A" level work there with the filler and sanding!! Don't sell yerself short pal, that trunk lid looks great. I'm just behind you on doing this process. I just sprayed the whole thing with 2 part Epoxy primer. Used black so I can see the numerous dents and dings easily. I have ALOT of bodywork ahead of me!! I have a little experience with tit but that was back in the 70's so not so recent. Looking very good man!!