My 1967 Belvedere Convertible Plans and Restoration (aka - Mad Scientist Build)

[747mopar]

Getting right after it.
​

 

[conv67bdere]

You've got to be kidding me . . . is this for real . . .

So I decided that I need to get the bearing off the axles so I can get the measurements that I need to order my new axles . . . needing a "much longer" puller, I ran to the steel mill and picked up some steel for some extensions for my puller . . .

Here's the set up . . . ready . . . ( at least I thought I was ready ) to get these things pulled off . . .

Got them hooked on the bearings like I nee them . . .

And I even thought I was getting some movement . . . ( yeah . . . I was seriously dreaming . . . )

So 747Mopar ( Devin ) tell me you have to split the collar . . . ok, so I split it . . . and the BAS**RD is still not even budging . . .

So tomorrow I'm going to take the cut off wheel to the bearing and get it out of me way . . .
good think I don't need these axles anymore . . .

LOL, who knows what they'll look like tomorrow . . .

Look out . . . they're coming off one way or another . . .

 

[conv67bdere]

These bearings are being a "bear" . . . I know, I told you so . . .

So my engineer friend told me a little trick, load up the puller as best as you can, then "smack" the end of the axle to help jar the bearing loose . . . so I tried it
( it laughed at me and said "seriously", you really think that's going to work ? ? )

So I relented to my final answer . . . the 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel . . . and . . .

Got the first one off . . . got my adjuster off too, in one piece so I can reuse it ( if I don't find a new replacement part for it ) . . . and the numbers on the bearing to try and find replacements. Talked to the technical guys at Moser, they "only" sell green bearings now, they do not sell the tapered bearings - well great . . . now what do I do . . .

 

[Glenwood]

I think Dr Diff sells tapered and green bearings.

 

[747mopar]

I just went to the local Napa and gave them the make model and year, no problem.

 

[conv67bdere]

Time to fight with the other axle and bearings . . . the passenger side . . . since I knew that I needed to cut them off, it went much faster this time . . .

Story of my life . . . I "randomly" had the axle in some position on the ground when I started to cut through the bearings . . .
And to my luck . . . look at the picture below . . .
Both bearings were cut in the exact same location - right through the bearing number and the exact same numbers location
- what's the odds of that ? ! ? ! ? ! ?
. . . well . . . for me . . . looks like 100% . . . Unbelievable . . . .

Got all my measurements for the new axles . . . now to check with Summit and see if Strange can provide the tapered bearings since I know that Moser only does Green Bearings now . . . or figure out a plan to get it done - have Moser not charge me for the bearings so I can order them from Nappa . . .

 

[747mopar]

LMAO always works out that way but like I said, give the local parts store the make, model and year and they should be able to look it up.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Call Cass (Dr.Diff) he has the tapered bearings and is super awesome to deal with.

 

[conv67bdere]

Got the door just about completely stripped . . . never thought the words "stripped" and "body parts" would be something that I don't want to see nor hear for a while . . .

But here's the progress on my door . . . soon ready to get some epoxy primer covering the bare metal . . .

Just a couple spots in the deep valleys that need to get cleaned up . . .

And then they'll get protected with epoxy primer ( which I'm sure I'll run as it gets applied . . . )

 

[conv67bdere]

A while back I got a set of dimple dies so that I can "try" dimpling the metal for a custom look . . . and I've never taken them out of the box - yet . . . so last night I pulled them out and decided to give it a shot and see how it worked . . . ( or didn't work . . . time will tell ) . . .

So the first test, was a plain piece of steel to see what the process entailed . . . I tried a 2" hole . . . and here's the results . . .

Really happy with the results, and I really like to look too . . .

So then the next "test" was to find a place on the car that could be used as a Guinea pig . . . so I found this small area in the trunk - for the trunk torsion bars

Tight area, and "barely was able to fit them in the openings . . . but the results turned out very nice . . .

Now I'm ready to add some more "customization" to the car . . . where needed

( Goon - Fer racin' ! )

 

[Brandy]

Hmm....I might need to borrow that later...

 

[monroegtx]

Looks very clean. Do you have any pics of the tool in progress? I've never seen it done before.

 

[Moparstyle]

Wow very nice work going to be awesome when you get her done

 

[conv67bdere]

Looks very clean. Do you have any pics of the tool in progress? I've never seen it done before.

Most certainly . . . there are many ways that this can be done, but this is how I came up with "my plan" to get them done . . .

First of all, you have the dimple dies . . . the one on the right goes into the hole and the one on the left sits on top of the protrusion - when the 2 parts are compressed together

As seen here - this is how the parts go together - to form the bend that you see . . .

Compression can be:
- using a C-clamp
- using a shop press
- you can run a bolt through the hole and tighten up a nut
- plenty of ways to make the compression . . . but I came up with a neat little "trick"

First we need to make a hole in the metal . . . this could be the "fun" part . . . but bear with me . . .

Cutting the hole . . .
- you can use a hole saw, but the hole edges will not be very "clean" when you're done . . .
- but to accomplish my "trick", I need a hole in the metal to proceed . . .

So I drill a hole in the metal with a hole saw . . .

Now for the most important part of this process . . . this is a Greenlee tool, that I borrowed from my friend, it's used to cut holes in panel boxes for electrical installations.
- the tool is hydraulic ( see the handle with the green cover on it )
- now to start with the setup . . .

I've inserted one of the stems from the box ( top row, third from the left ) into the end of the tool
- then the cutting die is threaded on the end of the stem . . . ( showing a closeup of the cutting area )

Now to get it set up properly, the metal is placed between the 2 dies as follows
- when you pump the handle the cutter on the right is pulled into the cup on the left . . .

after the "cut" is completed . . . you'll have the following . . .
- a very "clean" cut hole in the metal
- (2) half moon shaped cut out that were pulled into the cup
- you release the pressure, unscrew the cutting head and you have the following . . .

Now all that you need to do - is get the dimple die parts set up as follows
- and apply pressure to squeeze them together
- and the result is as you've seen above ( but how to accomplish it ? ? ? )

The cutting tool works with hydraulics . . . so I wondered . . .
- would it work ? ? ?
- So I set up the dimple die in place of the cutting dies ( had to figure out a way they would all be supported properly )
- and cam up with the following stack-up . . . ( notice the cutter is on backwards on the end to pull against the inside die )

Now, just pump the handle and pull the stem in, causing the dimple dies to compress the metal until they meet ( and can't go any further )

The use of this tool was what allowed me to do the process on the car with relative "ease" . . .

 

[Brandy]

Very informative, thanks. I have always wondered how that was done..

 

[monroegtx]

Excellent info. It's great to see the progression pics.

 

[conv67bdere]

Got out to the shop and spent a couple hours getting some things moved around ( while the weather is nice ) and then busted out the spray gun to get some epoxy primer on some of the bear metal that I've got on some of the parts I've bee working on lately . . . and things went pretty well . . .

First of all was the top of the trunk lid - I had stripped it a couple weeks ago and this was my first chance to get it in primer . . .
The amazing thing . . . no runs ! ! !

Then I moved onto the passenger door . . . and started with some of the edges first . . .

And the bottom too . . . trying to get it all well protected for the future . . .

More of the edges . . . and still no runs . . . must have gotten lucky . . .

Then I moved to the inside of the door . . . and that was a "whole lotta fun" in those tight, confined, spaces . . .
( those are the back sides of the welds for the trim molding holes that got welded up - the other hole was the door handle and will be cut out )

More pictures of inside the doors . . . in epoxy primer . . . not looking too bad . . .

Some of these areas are looking really good . . . I just want them covered and protected . . .

On the top right is a bit of rust that I'll need to get back inside and get it covered with epoxy primer ( but it looks really good )

I'll be going back inside the door tomorrow and get a second coat, and try and find the non covered areas and get them covered . . .

 

[Brandy]

looking great!!

 

[HYRDGOON]

Agreed looking great and I love the dimple dye look. I've saved quite a few pics lately where cars have had some dimple dye in the hood compartment