My 1969 Ivy Green Roadrunner 383 4 speed

[Ron 73]

That diagram shows what you have now with new 1/2 rail, this one (pardon my Photoshop work) When you cut the new rail off you may be able to weld tabs on sides and one on bottom and slide in rail you cut off, and it be the same deal weld inside old rail and outside of new, solid and no worries! Just a suggestion but cant see why it wouldn't work and make it perfectly solid.

 

[99ss]

I thought about that too, but then I have to remove the floor completely to get at the inside of the rail..LOL
Not sure yet what I will do.I go through the trouble of removing the floor I am going to want to replace it. It has to stop somewhere or I'll be buying sheet metal for ever...LOL

 

[Basket case]

these old cars are truley a sickness

 

[Ron 73]

Yep! Seems like you try to repair one area that automatically takes you to yet one more needed repair, Maybe cut out a small patch area, drill spot welds out, weld the rail in and then butt weld the patch back in! Im just thinking out loud and im sure someone here has had to do something similar that will help you figure out the best way..

 

[tallhair]

Yep! Seems like you try to repair one area that automatically takes you to yet one more needed repair, Maybe cut out a small patch area, drill spot welds out, weld the rail in and then butt weld the patch back in! Im just thinking out loud and im sure someone here has had to do something similar that will help you figure out the best way..

great job on the photoshop Ron

 

[99ss]

Wellllll...... I wanted to have this up and running by Christmas. BUT I'm kind of residing myself now to the fact it might not get finished until next year now. I need money is all...hahahahaha

 

[Nsane]

I would do as suggested and sleeve the rail but plug weld the sleeve as opposed to welding from the inside. 1/4 to 5/16 plug holes. You then plug weld the sleeve in to the new rail and slide it in to the old rail leaving a small gap to get good penetration. before you slide it in drill 2 holes in each face of the rail 6 total so when you slide the rail in you plug weld those then you weld your seam. That has been the ICAR recommended procedure for years. Gives you a nice but weld with backing with the added strength of the backing being plug welded to both sides of the seam a 2 to 3" piece of old rail can be split down the middle and trimmed to make a great sleeve. Then you don't have to worry about the floor.

 

[99ss]

I would do as suggested and sleeve the rail but plug weld the sleeve as opposed to welding from the inside. 1/4 to 5/16 plug holes. You then plug weld the sleeve in to the new rail and slide it in to the old rail leaving a small gap to get good penetration. before you slide it in drill 2 holes in each face of the rail 6 total so when you slide the rail in you plug weld those then you weld your seam. That has been the ICAR recommended procedure for years. Gives you a nice but weld with backing with the added strength of the backing being plug welded to both sides of the seam a 2 to 3" piece of old rail can be split down the middle and trimmed to make a great sleeve. Then you don't have to worry about the floor.

Ron can you make a diagram of this for me??..LOL I'm a visual kind of guy and thank you Nsane that so very very helpful ! only needs a 3" sleeve?


Compiled my list of AMD sheet-metal needs right now
840-1468-L + R, 900-1469, 900-1469-L,710-1469-L+R ... possibly also 865-1466-2L+R...

I could almost use a full quarter on the left hand side. There was a collision in the back and its a bit messed up. Its going to require some fabrication to repair it. Beyond my skill level ...LOL as most of this all is

 

[Nsane]

Your sleeve can be as long as you want your butt weld is the majority of the strength. you could do 4 or 5 inch or relay whatever makes you comfortable. You could do a longer sleve and put double rows of spot welds if you want. Make sure to clean up all sides of the metal and use weld through or zinc primer (relay light) on the metal. On the new cars we work on we have to be very careful not to make things stronger than they were only the same because of the way they are designed to crumple and spread out the impact force also airbag considerations.

 

[99ss]

Is it easier to remove and put the whole piece in from this point or are you cutting the rail there as well?



How is that rail attached ?

Pics borrowed from Propwash

 

[99ss]

$1375 shipped ... Sheet metal on da way ! 1/4 skins, trunk extensions, spring mounts, light panel and one light housing.. going to need the LH outer wheel house as well, the right hand can be repaired.

 

[roadrunnerman]

I saw those photos and thought you were getting right along, then I read further and saw that you borrowed from propwash. LOL. I'm sure it won't be long after the parts come in that you will put your own photos up.

 

[99ss]

I got s surprise for ya later tonight Roge...LOL

 

[Ron 73]

Those rear spring perches are pricey.. Someone said they ordered a set and they were the wrong ones, im just telling you so you can double check, im not sure which is which but although the Same year Charger is a B-body they are either i inch shorter or longer then the RR.. I hope i read it right, but i would suggest asking Elk.. If im wrong it wont be the first time but i would hate to see you get it together and it be off one inch because i didn't say something.

 

[99ss]

I removed the old ones in one piece so I can compare them. Thanks for the info I'll be looking out for that ! That would suck tremendously...LOL

 

[747mopar]

If you decided to pull the crossmember in order to replace the frame rail there's an easy way to make sure you don't damage it "cut the portion of frame rail that it's attached to out, once out you can just grind the frame rail right off of the crossmember with no issues". If you do get a floor pan try to get one that includes the lip in the back that welds to the tail panel "mine didn't and I had to graft one onto it PITA". Good luck and don't worry "your not the only one scraping for funds"

 

[roadrunnerman]

I got s surprise for ya later tonight Roge...LOL

OOH, I can hardly wait............. I think. LMAO

 

[99ss]

If you decided to pull the crossmember in order to replace the frame rail there's an easy way to make sure you don't damage it "cut the portion of frame rail that it's attached to out, once out you can just grind the frame rail right off of the crossmember with no issues". If you do get a floor pan try to get one that includes the lip in the back that welds to the tail panel "mine didn't and I had to graft one onto it PITA". Good luck and don't worry "your not the only one scraping for funds"

Well I did what I shouldn't do... found credit card with room on it ..LOL
but it had to be done. I'll make it back in a few months I suppose on ebay sales.

I'll post the pics .. but I decided not to do the whole floor and rail.... Why take apart what is already solid was my reasoning. So I cut and grafted as Nsane advised. IT isn't welded up yet, still fitting it and measuring and making sure I get it right back where it supposed to be. It would suck to have it off center or un-level.... and I am fully capable of botching it ..hahahaha

 

[747mopar]

Well I did what I shouldn't do... found credit card with room on it ..LOL
but it had to be done. I'll make it back in a few months I suppose on ebay sales.

I'll post the pics .. but I decided not to do the whole floor and rail.... Why take apart what is already solid was my reasoning. So I cut and grafted as Nsane advised. IT isn't welded up yet, still fitting it and measuring and making sure I get it right back where it supposed to be. It would suck to have it off center or un-level.... and I am fully capable of botching it ..hahahaha

Cool, ready to dig in and get r done. Self tapping screws are a good cheap way to secure them until your happy with it, "then weld, weld, weld". Good luck

 

[Nsane]

Glad to help. Like every one says make sure everything is exactly where you want then go to town with the welder. And yes self taping sheet metal screws are your friend. Good luck and keep the pics coming