Runcharger
Well-Known Member
Nice! I still prefer the look of our classic powerplants over the new stuff. That body almost looks 90% finished where I come from.
My 71 Road Runner 340/727 F7
- Thread starter 71 Runner
- Start date
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that’s the reason I picked that setup. It looks really close to the way it originally did (except the color) I just don’t like the one piece belt setups. They look like a hunk of aluminum just hanging on there.
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
It almost is. Crossing my fingers that there’s no surprises when they do the media blasting. The right rear quarter panel is buckled forward by a hit and run just before I had to park the car. I have the replacement sitting at the shop. You can just see the impact point just above the bumper. The bumper is bent as well.
Still need to weld in the full body stiffening kit and the 4 link. I’ve just decided in the last couple days to upgrade the axle to a Dana 60 so just researching my options now.
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Rennkafer
Well-Known Member
I don't mind the single belt systems, but that one is a bit over the top "Look at me I'm a whole lot of billet"... they look terrible on street rods too. Sort of the newer equivalent of dipping it all in chrome.
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
That’s why I’m putting on the one in post #40 ; )
Rennkafer
Well-Known Member
Ya, I saw that. For me, a one belt system that looks similar to the two belt you're using would be optimal. Single belt systems have some advantages like easier belt changes, less slip, etc.
Your car though, certainly not trying to tell you what you should do. Just making conversation.
I have a broken K frame nut on one of my cars too. My plan was to cut out a 2-3" section on the bottom of the rail and weld in a new piece. I'm curious why you would replace the whole frame rail?
I love your car BTW! Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
When Divine One had the problem with the bolt, they looked in one of the holes on the rail and it was full of sand and was damp the further down he worked his finger. They were concerned about the rust inside and the integrity of the rail because of the seized bolt. They told me they were going to remove the rail and media blasted it on the inside just to be sure. I just decide to go ahead and put on a new one due to the stroker engine swap. I would rather not have trouble down the road at some point.
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
It’s be a few weeks since the last update. Just a few things finished and a lot to go. Both front frame rails are done and the QA1 tubular k-member is completely ready to mock up the engine and Tremec. The torsion bar cross member has been installed and modified for the trans mount. The trans tunnel has been cut out and modifying for the manual tunnel is test fit.
The engine is done, just waiting on Milodon to ship the oil pan, windage tray, dip stick and sump pick up. They are tell me by the end of this month fingers crossed. I started ordering all of the engine accessories, starter, alternator, water pump, electronic ignition and the headers. I told the wife not to worry about putting all the boxes in the back room as I would be taking them to the engine shop. Well, that was 3 weeks ago and they are all sitting in the entryway by the front door. I’m surprised she hasn’t yelled at me once.
The engine is done, just waiting on Milodon to ship the oil pan, windage tray, dip stick and sump pick up. They are tell me by the end of this month fingers crossed. I started ordering all of the engine accessories, starter, alternator, water pump, electronic ignition and the headers. I told the wife not to worry about putting all the boxes in the back room as I would be taking them to the engine shop. Well, that was 3 weeks ago and they are all sitting in the entryway by the front door. I’m surprised she hasn’t yelled at me once.
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
I asked them a couple day ago if they could remove the dash so I could get started on the no a/c to a/c conversion. It was removed the next day and I picked it up this am. I was really surprised how fast the tear down went with hardly a set backs. I removed the instrument cluster and wiring harness all in one piece. I was going to remove all the lights from the instruments but it seemed way easier just to leave everything still plugged in. I’ll be putting it up for sale in a while as a complete setup.
I bought a dash frame from an A/C car to put it back together with the Dakota Digital instruments and the Vintage Air. Vintage Air doesn’t have a kit for the 71-74 B-Body but the 71-72 firewall is from an E-Body according to Moparts Mark anyway, so it looks like a little firewall modifying has to been done. Maybe someone here has done the mod already? I figure if I send out the dash pad an have that restored. Then I repaint the black A/C dash frame to Saddle and install the Dakota Digital gauges with the new harness. I could save a **** load of time and a little bit of money compared to sending it out to Instrument Specialties and waiting for ever to get it back.
I bought a dash frame from an A/C car to put it back together with the Dakota Digital instruments and the Vintage Air. Vintage Air doesn’t have a kit for the 71-74 B-Body but the 71-72 firewall is from an E-Body according to Moparts Mark anyway, so it looks like a little firewall modifying has to been done. Maybe someone here has done the mod already? I figure if I send out the dash pad an have that restored. Then I repaint the black A/C dash frame to Saddle and install the Dakota Digital gauges with the new harness. I could save a **** load of time and a little bit of money compared to sending it out to Instrument Specialties and waiting for ever to get it back.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
I can confirm the vintage air kit for the barracuda works just fine.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
The E-body control panel they provide with the kit doesn’t really work on our b body cluster. They have other options for the control panel that would work better. I was in a hurry to get it together for some shows. I just removed the huge factory radio and temp (permanently) installed it there for now.
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the fast reply!! That’s a big relief for sure. I was worried there would be a bunch of hacking and whacking to make it work. From the look of your setup, it looks like you got the non A/C kit. Did you use the under dash vents? I have been picking up almost everything that the A/C cars had. A/C dash frame, drivers side vent, passenger side A/C vented bezel and all the behind dash ductwork. I’m guessing the best thing would be to call Vintage Air to make the best decision.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
This is what I ordered. You will be ahead of me since you seem to be using that serpentine setup. I had to get my brackets for the big block. That kit came for a 340.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
I used most everything in that kit. Retro (hacked) together the vintage air ducts to my factory defrost ducts and vents. My car was factory AC.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
I actually ordered it from Affordable street rods. Think I talked to Gary. Super great people. They keep a ton of vintage air stuff in stock. They didn’t have the condessor kit in stock at the time of ordering. They were quick to give my the part number and told me summit racing usually had it in stock.
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
I was running the cost of the CVF pulleys over and over and it just seemed to be the best way to go. Since I was small block to big block and had nothing anyways. I really appreciate as many pictures that you can send along also. It will sure save the $100 an hour scratching their heads shop rate! : /
If Vintage Air still has the 2 round knobs option for the controller, that looks like the best fit in the original location.
If Vintage Air still has the 2 round knobs option for the controller, that looks like the best fit in the original location.
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
Honestly. I really just followed the instructions. No real surprises. The only thing is if you are having to modify your non ac firewall and have the motor out of it like I think you will, is if you could cheat the evap box further to the passenger side. Getting all six air ducts ran you run out of room quick. You are going to have a hell of a ride when you are done. I have the Dakota gauges on my shelf waiting for me to stop being lazy. They are sweet. Have you got them yet?
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
Horrible picture. But see how all the ducts come out the one side. It gets tight tight getting all that routed.
71 Runner
Well-Known Member
No, I don’t have the DD gauges yet. I have been trying to buy the parts the shop will need first. Mama has asked me to keep the bill down to $5,000 a month so she can pay it in full every month. This month was all the bolt on parts for the engine. The shop wants to test fit the engine and trans next step.
Next month is the Dana 60 upgrade from Dr Diff and the Wilwood front brake kit. Hopefully they can get the 4 link mocked up next month. I plan on getting the AC kit and rear Wilwood kit in July. That pushes the DD gauges into August. Getting really close to having all the big stuff payed for already. I started a year before they put her up on the lift and got the party started.
Next month is the Dana 60 upgrade from Dr Diff and the Wilwood front brake kit. Hopefully they can get the 4 link mocked up next month. I plan on getting the AC kit and rear Wilwood kit in July. That pushes the DD gauges into August. Getting really close to having all the big stuff payed for already. I started a year before they put her up on the lift and got the party started.
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