showard
Well-Known Member
Thanks Don,
The safety latch does fit, latches correctly and it’s perfectly painted.
The safety latch does fit, latches correctly and it’s perfectly painted.
your welcome, it looked like your old latch and pull were flat black, and i was painting a few flat parts anyway, so i threw it in with the rest. glad it fits. and watch your head around those things, i wacked mine on that thing once and that was enough.
Still trying to fine tune things. I still hadn’t figured how to get my transmission to kick down so I decided to drive it to town and have the transmission shop check it over and make the settings and adjustments needed. Just as I was pulling off the interstate it coughed sputtered and died. I coasted off and could not get it started. I thought maybe my distributor slipped setting but could not get it to run. I had to get it towed to the shop. It was hard to see her on the tow truck.
They found out that the pickup coil went bad in my distributor. They also got my transmission kick down to work correctly. She now seems to be running and working well.
I have 225/50 R 17's, 26" dia.3.55's or 3.23's are good all around gears. What is your rear tire height?
I guess that is what is nice thing about these 2.76s. It seems to cruse 80 mph on the highway without revving high.I don't really like my 3.55s with my 275 60R15s. Pulls nicely but revs close to 3400rpm at 60mph. The engine runs well but just seems to scream on the highway where most of my driving is done. I'm tempted to swap some 3.23s that I have, but I'm not sure it would make a significant difference.
I would have to make myself be patient and not try to keep up with today's traffic.If you're going to be on the highway a lot, 3.23's are the way to go. As others have said, the 3.55's rev a bit if you keep up w today's traffic. I like my 3.55's though, and I'm happy at 60-65 mph. No tach, I just listen to it sing.
When I quit racing my last 70RR I took out a 4.88 and put in a 2.76 to drive on the street a little., that was about 1980. It had a 440, big cam, 12.5 pistons, ect., 4spd, and idled at 60mph in 4th, hehe.. I'd leave the 2.76 in unless you want to race a lot.I guess that is what is nice thing about these 2.76s. It seems to cruse 80 mph on the highway without revving high.
One thing I left out about my 2.76 experiment is that on paper I calculated top speed of 200mph, without figuring in for drag. It's probably a good gear for the standing mile races.When I quit racing my last 70RR I took out a 4.88 and put in a 2.76 to drive on the street a little., that was about 1980. It had a 440, big cam, 12.5 pistons, ect., 4spd, and idled at 60mph in 4th, hehe.. I'd leave the 2.76 in unless you want to race a lot.
I've been working on my front running lights/turn signals and was thinking that they should to be on with the headlights. I've seen pics of chargers with them on and off with headlights on. So I remembered this pic of yours and I see that they're not on. Mine only come on in the mid position of the switch. I'm guessing that is how they're supposed to work?, maybe just on 68s..
I thought that I did something wrong. I also wanted them to be on with the headlights. Mine also come on in the mid position running light switch so maybe that is how it was for the 68's.I've been working on my front running lights/turn signals and was thinking that they should to be on with the headlights. I've seen pics of chargers with them on and off with headlights on. So I remembered this pic of yours and I see that they're not on. Mine only come on in the mid position of the switch. I'm guessing that is how they're supposed to work?, maybe just on 68s..
I thought that I did something wrong. I also wanted them to be on with the headlights. Mine also come on in the mid position running light switch so maybe that is how it was for the 68's.