My new 71 SSP! Any advice accepted!

[ct71rr]

You could ask MoparMark (?) on this website and I’m sure a few others to get a non-rusted out factory piece from a salvage car (I recommend OEM pieces) I 100% agree you should add at least some “basic” frame connectors. You can post a wanted add on this site or moparts.com and find a console (interior paint to match your color). Nice car!

That’s who I got mine from…and a bunch of other parts.

 

[DudeBroDerk]

@DudeBroDerk did you find the Broadcast Sheet for your car?

Unfortunately no the seats have all been changed and whatnot

 

[70chall440]

It’s just metal, no magic to it and since it’s not a rare or highly valuable car I’d cut out the rust and make new patch panels to replace them. If you do it right (as in take your time, make good cuts, cut far enough back to be into good metal, and make accurate patch panels) you can make the repair almost invisible and definitely invisible if you put some paint and/or some undercoating (I use HF spray on bed liner).

 

[Carcinogen]

Here is how this guy replaced cross member.

 

[DudeBroDerk]

Just ordered this front end kit! Hopefully this goes smoothly for me! Never don’t front end work myself so I may be here asking a ton of questions! The tires are too far -cambered the inner edge on the tires are showing wires. Ball joints look like they are seperatong and several rubber bushings wore/gone.

 

[Rennkafer]

Just ordered this front end kit! Hopefully this goes smoothly for me! Never don’t front end work myself so I may be here asking a ton of questions! The tires are too far -cambered the inner edge on the tires are showing wires. Ball joints look like they are seperatong andseveral rubber bushings wore/gone.

I wouldn't be sure it was camber wear, from what you describe it could well be the cars toe is off, and that can wear the insides very similarly. Either way you'll need an alignment after replacing everything, so it shouldn't be a problem in the future.

 

[whayden2003]

I see in the pics it seems like the taillights are broken. And maybe the side markers.
If you’re interested I believe I have both the rear taillight lens and four side markers. Now they are faded and some checking. But they may match your look you are going for. PM me your address and I’ll send them to you if the shipping isn’t horrible. I will never use them. And they aren’t worth nothing to no one. See the pics to compare the replacements to the old parts I have.

 

[Manfred]

Beware the Chinese ball joints on PST kits. Had a lower fail going over the railroad tracks on our 73 after less than 30K miles ( regular service). Seek NOS from Ebay or Rock auto.

 

[whayden2003]

Beware the Chinese ball joints on PST kits. Had a lower fail going over the railroad tracks on our 73 after less than 30K miles ( regular service). Seek NOS from Ebay or Rock auto.

I can’t say I have had a failure with the PST kit. Or that I didn’t get exactly what they advertised. Definitely got a firm jarring ride from the polygraphite stuff. Not happy with my street car with them. I am piecing together all MOOG rubber bushings to do it again soon. The roads here in the south are gloried dirt roads. So others results on nicer roads maybe different.

 

[whayden2003]

Just ordered this front end kit! Hopefully this goes smoothly for me! Never don’t front end work myself so I may be here asking a ton of questions! The tires are too far -cambered the inner edge on the tires are showing wires. Ball joints look like they are seperatong and several rubber bushings wore/gone. View attachment 1698766

Check the upper control arm ball joint first. Many are like mine were most likely. Been hacked on. The threads in the control arms left the chat decades ago. Last guy did the old center punch around the diameter of the control arm and get the ball joint seated and welded it in with some stitch welds. Check this before you ruin an expensive ball joint socket like I did.

 

[Rockland71GTX]

I would also find an 'old school' alignment shop when you finish the front end. I took my Satellite to Midas 4 times and they couldn't get it right. The last time they told me I needed to get adjustable UCA's before they would waste THEIR time trying to get it right. I asked around at car shows and went to a highly recommended shop. Before he even put a wrench on it he noticed a twisted frame rail. I don't think the hacks at Midas would ever notice that.

 

[1967coronet]

Looks like a pretty solid car. The bottom side rust you have shown can be repaired. Also that steering column looks correct to me.
Nice find.

 

[DudeBroDerk]

I see in the pics it seems like the taillights are broken. And maybe the side markers.
If you’re interested I believe I have both the rear taillight lens and four side markers. Now they are faded and some checking. But they may match your look you are going for. PM me your address and I’ll send them to you if the shipping isn’t horrible. I will never use them. And they aren’t worth nothing to no one. See the pics to compare the replacements to the old parts I have.

View attachment 1698779

View attachment 1698780

View attachment 1698781

I do need those! Please message me and we can chat pricing!

 

[DudeBroDerk]

Beware the Chinese ball joints on PST kits. Had a lower fail going over the railroad tracks on our 73 after less than 30K miles ( regular service). Seek NOS from Ebay or Rock auto.

That’s upsetting. I went here because they were talked about on this page and they offered the 10% discount. I assumed they were a little better quality than the even cheeper ones shown online. I was looking on rock auto and had it all set in my cart and it would have cost around this same price anyways I believe, maybe I should have went that way.

 

[DudeBroDerk]

Looks like a pretty solid car. The bottom side rust you have shown can be repaired. Also that steering column looks correct to me.
Nice find.

So I have some more concerning that i neglected to notice when buying the car. When I pull the window out I’m sure I’ll be able to know for sure but I’m hoping I can just fill some of this stuff in? Or is a new roof looking like the future for my car?

 

[DudeBroDerk]

Also this little spot I’ll have to figure out how to fill in. Hood latches still and whatnot but it doesn’t sit right.

 

[1967coronet]

You will need to weld in some solid glass channel cut out of donor.
That inner fender is repairable if that's the worst of it. Don't forget to weld a nut on the backside of the repair section.

 

[Manfred]

The parts quality issue is a real headache anymore. I've given up on Napa etc. due to the trash they have handed off over the last 10 years ( and then telling me "they all do that" when I return the defective part- and you sold it to me anyway!!!). NOS parts are to be had with some hunting. Ball joints and tie rod end matter, you life is riding on them. As far as alignment..set the toe and let it go. You can do that at home and it will ride ok. Mail order tires are still affordable. I'm sure there are still good alignment shops out there but in my area they have followed the way of the machine shops, gone baby,gone. A non weld solution to the roof rust is good metal prep ( wire wheel, OSPHO) and the use of epoxy sculpt. Its a metal artist material, 2 stage mix with a long dry time. Its pricey for the little that you get but it really works and can be ground to the desired shape. I've used it many times with success and its not a technique normally discussed. On the table for your consideration. Welding in a patch is not easy.

 

[DudeBroDerk]

The parts quality issue is a real headache anymore. I've given up on Napa etc. due to the trash they have handed off over the last 10 years ( and then telling me "they all do that" when I return the defective part- and you sold it to me anyway!!!). NOS parts are to be had with some hunting. Ball joints and tie rod end matter, you life is riding on them. As far as alignment..set the toe and let it go. You can do that at home and it will ride ok. Mail order tires are still affordable. I'm sure there are still good alignment shops out there but in my area they have followed the way of the machine shops, gone baby,gone. A non weld solution to the roof rust is good metal prep ( wire wheel, OSPHO) and the use of epoxy sculpt. Its a metal artist material, 2 stage mix with a long dry time. Its pricey for the little that you get but it really works and can be ground to the desired shape. I've used it many times with success and its not a technique normally discussed. On the table for your consideration. Welding in a patch is not easy.

I will definitely be checking in here as most people here know way more then I when it comes to these cars. I’m 29 and this is my first old mopar, its all been a learning process but I’m not dumb, I work maintenance as a day job in a factory and work on all kinds of **** so I know how things work and I can turn a wrench, I’m just not a mechanic per say. I do all my own work on my vehicles of course what I can, I’m just not sure I’ll be able to tackle welding the roof or whatever metal work quite yet until I get there, thankfully my grandfather has rebuilt 3 chevelles and a mustang all by himself and they looked worse then my car does! He is just a rather busy guy and is currently working on a rat rod that is taking all his free time, so I’m trying not to ask him for help too much.

 

[Manfred]

Sounds like you have a good support system to get over the finish line! Working with elders will be a great memory. I had some grumpy old guys help me when I was a hot head 19 year old with a blown up Satellite. Its a debt I can never repay.