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Need New ECU

Ranger16

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Hey guys, my car failed to start. Swapped in my back up ECU (Orange Box) #P4120505 and she fired right up. Searching for a replacement and they all say "Discontinued", "Unavailable" or "No Longer Available". WTF? Anyone aware of this? Do I now have to go with the blue box? I assume that the only difference is the RPM rating?

Before anyone suggests it, no I really don't want to switch systems. I just want a back up that I can plug n play if needed.

On a side note, after the 3rd attempt to start (I thought maye the float bowls where dry), it stopped cranking abruptly. I found the negative battery post and connector very hot. New battery (12.56v) and good clean, tight connections. Maybe normal, but seemed odd to me.
 
I’d look for any brand of older boxes with made in USA on it , I think those maybe a safer bet than the chisneeze stuff that’s coming off the boat!
 
There's a guy on the board, Halifax shops, i think will hook you up
 
Hey guys, my car failed to start. Swapped in my back up ECU (Orange Box) #P4120505 and she fired right up. Searching for a replacement and they all say "Discontinued", "Unavailable" or "No Longer Available". WTF? Anyone aware of this?

I know this is not a WTB Advertisement, but I just happen to have a brand new one of those Orange boxes on my desk right now. Dated 06/09/09, Made in USA, #P4120505
If no-one is able to hook you up, and two weeks is no issue, I could send this one over to you.

20200810_151420.jpg
 
Proof of it being 'in hand'.....

20200810_151858.jpg
 
Go for the chrome box, they don't fail. The Rev n nator is good too but about five times the price. The rev limiter is nice. I use both of these, gave up on orange boxes they will leave you stranded.
 
I just saw chrome box is no longer produced. Bummer. Gold box is still around on Mancini but I think that's race only.
 
Go for the chrome box, they don't fail. The Rev n nator is good too but about five times the price. The rev limiter is nice. I use both of these, gave up on orange boxes they will leave you stranded.
Don't fail? You tell me! 3 Chromed boxes in a row in 2 years! LOL
 
try the hi rev 7500 from rick ehrenberg he's on ebay they work good
 
Hey guys, my car failed to start. Swapped in my back up ECU (Orange Box) #P4120505 and she fired right up. Searching for a replacement and they all say "Discontinued", "Unavailable" or "No Longer Available". WTF? Anyone aware of this? Do I now have to go with the blue box? I assume that the only difference is the RPM rating?

Before anyone suggests it, no I really don't want to switch systems. I just want a back up that I can plug n play if needed.

On a side note, after the 3rd attempt to start (I thought maye the float bowls where dry), it stopped cranking abruptly. I found the negative battery post and connector very hot. New battery (12.56v) and good clean, tight connections. Maybe normal, but seemed odd to me.

I have a Napa TP50 ECU thats at least 25 yrs old brand new in the box never been mounted. Has MADE IN USA stamped on it. I also have an MO20 cap with brass terminals brand new as well. I can help you out if you cant find a Orange box. Best part is I'm about 2hrs away from you. Just let me know.
 
I have some tested used and tested new boxes, have to get some pics, nothing new NORS. Here is what may help you ID what you want.
ECUApplication.jpg
ecu chart 2.png
 
Biggest reason for ECU failure that I have found out is a mis matched ballast resistor and cooling. Think the E bodies make a mount that stands away from the firewall and lets air flow behind.
s-l1600.jpg

Of course the new stuff generally sucks also.
s-l1600.jpg
 
Yea all the Mopar boxes that are newer suck. The Chrome and the Orange have both failed me in less than a years time so I went RevNnator and have been happy with that ever since. FBO ignition also makes a nice unit.
 
We got into this pretty hard on FABO. We have a member retrofitting them with 4 pin GM hei's and was pretty surprising what differences there are inside. Some have just a chip, quite a few have false transistors on the front, bad potting material that let moisture in etc. The older Mopar ones are pretty consistent. Big clue is what is on printed on the transistor itself. RCA and Motorola and Prestolite I believe are real ones. Any thing else either false or junk.

dcc-4120505_ml.jpg
s-l400.jpg
s-l400.jpg
iHm5wkr5EB_VvINgc_hO4AiLTHc63HgoUCNu5Xj9UWanMKO8wHK06THtrmAdOhfBHNe8VzWlbjmxthe6Kcb6Mq1TkWdDLpug.jpg
 
My (Orange) went bad a month ago went to Advance for a blue box Less than $25, Installed it and it was like I did a major tune up. How long it lasts is the question.
 
I got some of the older blue boxes, at least testing never had one fail, now orange and chrome are a crap shoot, usually at higher (5000) rpm they have issues.
 
Don't fail? You tell me! 3 Chromed boxes in a row in 2 years! LOL

Yeah, I haven't had to buy a chrome since 2012 so quality has most likely changed. The one I have performs really well with a blaster 2 coil and an msd 0.8 ohm ballast resistor.
 
sure... the chrome box is AWESOME!!! when it works. LOL. ( I have same resistor and coil )

The last versions of al MP failed due ground failure into the PCB and power transistor quality
 
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