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Need some help with a 426 hemi street build

Ultimate
I would like to run a mechanical fuel pump on this engine anyone doing the same and have recommendations on which pump would supply the needed fuel?
ultimate pump? Mount a small hilborn pump near the tank. Drive it with a gilmer belt off the crank. Adjust pump speed with pulleys. Use a long cable to hook them up. Guys been doing this for awhile now.
 
I degreed the cam today and the cam card says to install at 110 center line. I measured it at 103.5 so the cam is advanced 6.5 degrees? I have the comp timing set with 8 degrees advance and 8 degrees retard so do I go 6 degrees advance on the crank? Here’s a pic of the cam card
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So I guess the better question would be this. This is an 11:1 static compression engine that will be ran on 93 pump gas in a 69 bee with a 4 speed and 3:91 gear with 27” tall tire street driven. I understand that advancing the cam will build more dynamic compression and seems to me is not smart for a pump gas engine with this compression. I installed it with the dots lined up and checked it and come up with 103.5 intake center line and the cam card calls for 110. I can retard it 4 degrees with the crank gear but still 2.5 degrees off and this is a three bolt cam gear
can I get the last 2.5 degrees with an offset bushing in the dowel hole?
 
Curious my self about 11 to 1 compression and 93 octane gas. "They say" with aluminum heads you can get away with it.
 
i will install the cam at 110 CL per bullets recommendation. I gave the compression ratio and car info to Ray Barton and he spec’d the cam. I also asked if he thought that 93 pump would be a problem at the compression I have in a hemi and his words were “shouldn’t be a problem”. I guess i’ll
find out soon enough.
 
i will install the cam at 110 CL per bullets recommendation. I gave the compression ratio and car info to Ray Barton and he spec’d the cam. I also asked if he thought that 93 pump would be a problem at the compression I have in a hemi and his words were “shouldn’t be a problem”. I guess i’ll
find out soon enough.

alum. heads might make the diff. , but w/ cast iron heads , back in the day I couldn`t run anything under 100 oct. if that , and keep it timed where it ran right .
I wouldn`t use an offset bushing at all , I never had good luck w/ them , I know a lot of chevy racers have used them , but the ones I saw were in an alum. cam gear , my stock hemi cast iron cam gear didnt like being drilled or center punched --------
 
A little more progress. Got the cam indexed and set the heads on to measure for pushrods.
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will the factory harmonic balancer work ok
with this build?
 
Sure. Need to check for top dead center as the marks may be off. I would run a paint line from the bolt holes out to the edge so you can spot any slippage of the outer ring.

I have verified the timing mark is correct. I know the balancer from a 440 will work on a hemi just was wondering if it would do the job on a stroker. I appreciate everyone’s input and advice
 
I have verified the timing mark is correct. I know the balancer from a 440 will work on a hemi just was wondering if it would do the job on a stroker. I appreciate everyone’s input and advice
Not the same. While it will bolt up, a street Hemi uses a much thicker dampener. I would tend to do the same, especially with a bigger arm.
 
Not the same. While it will bolt up, a street Hemi uses a much thicker dampener. I would tend to do the same, especially with a bigger arm.

I know the 440 one gets used for the more available pulleys. not a big cam 632 lift roller
 
I know the 440 one gets used for the more available pulleys. not a big cam 632 lift roller
Crankshaft harmonics and torsional vibrations and that kind of stuff is way over my head. So I go with what the experts, the factory engineers go with. And they like the thick balancer for longevity. I know the race hemis used a thin balance but they were not meant to last a long time.
 
Crankshaft harmonics and torsional vibrations and that kind of stuff is way over my head. So I go with what the experts, the factory engineers go with. And they like the thick balancer for longevity. I know the race hemis used a thin balance but they were not meant to last a long time.

If u got the coin for a hemi , u have the coin for a real fluid dampener , ''only thing I use'' !
Think about harmonics in a thick gell like substance that wont wear out , compared to rattleing balls or cast steel , etc.
 
If u got the coin for a hemi , u have the coin for a real fluid dampener , ''only thing I use'' !
Think about harmonics in a thick gell like substance that wont wear out , compared to rattleing balls or cast steel , etc.
Until the fluid leaks out. Had that happen before. I use ATI for all my race engines and rebuildable with their o-ring kits. For my street builds any ole Pioneer or Powerbond work just fine.
 
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