New bullet for the "Brick"

[theman440]

Tapping the water temp sensor hole deeper to be fully submerged in the coolant/water for accurate readings.

 

[theman440]

I did the same for the fan switch also.

On the old motor electrolysis ate away at my cylinder heads and I had to get them welded. This time I will use an anode to avoid it. I put one here in the W/P housing. I also put one in the radiator.

Here is the W/P housing painted and assembled with electric water pump and billet t-stat housing -

 

[theman440]

I finally had a whole (or most) of a day to get some stuff done. I've had the rotating assembly back from balancing for a few weeks, I put the crank / rods & pistons in the block again for some more mock up. This time for the windage screen & crank scraper. I bought a Kit from Dvorak Machine http://dvorakmachine.com/wind_screen.shtml I had to modify it (a lot more than I had anticipated) because of the girdle I'm using. 1. I did not want to use the main studs that came with it because I already had the girdle studs I could use. 2. I couldn't use the scraper in it's intended way either because of how it mounts (more on that later)

First thing I did was make a cardboard template of the screen to figure out the required mods -

The screen I got did not have any holes in it so I had to figure out a way to put them in without destroying it. After covering the screen with masking tape so I could mark it, I drilled a 7/16 hole in some scrap 1/4 plate and sandwiched the screen between it and a block of wood. I used a die grinder and carbide bit to "drill" the holes - using the hole in the plate as a guide.

After drilling the holes and cutting out the screen to match the template I got out my Harbor freight sheet metal brake and put a bend in it.

And here it is installed - my studs were a hair too short so I ordered longer ones. It came out pretty good, I'm not sure how effective it will be but something is better than nothing.

 

[not so famous bob]

I finally had a whole (or most) of a day to get some stuff done. I've had the rotating assembly back from balancing for a few weeks, I put the crank / rods & pistons in the block again for some more mock up. This time for the windage screen & crank scraper. I bought a Kit from Dvorak Machine http://dvorakmachine.com/wind_screen.shtml I had to modify it (a lot more than I had anticipated) because of the girdle I'm using. 1. I did not want to use the main studs that came with it because I already had the girdle studs I could use. 2. I couldn't use the scraper in it's intended way either because of how it mounts (more on that later)

First thing I did was make a cardboard template of the screen to figure out the required mods -

View attachment 1028685

The screen I got did not have any holes in it so I had to figure out a way to put them in without destroying it. After covering the screen with masking tape so I could mark it, I drilled a 7/16 hole in some scrap 1/4 plate and sandwiched the screen between it and a block of wood. I used a die grinder and carbide bit to "drill" the holes - using the hole in the plate as a guide.

View attachment 1028686

After drilling the holes and cutting out the screen to match the template I got out my Harbor freight sheet metal brake and put a bend in it.

View attachment 1028687

And here it is installed - my studs were a hair too short so I ordered longer ones. It came out pretty good, I'm not sure how effective it will be but something is better than nothing.

View attachment 1028688

Dave at hughs engines once said , if ur running a girdle , u dont need a windage tray .

 

[ckessel]

Electrolysis also happens from electrical issues on the car. Awhile back I read a thread about one guys issue chasing it down. He added the anodes too but still killed two Ron Davis radiators. He finally found that one of his dash switches was bad and back feeding current. That was the cause of his issues. Make sure you have good grounds in your system, not just one 10ga wire calling it good. Run the neg batt lead to the engine and from there branch off with several straps or at least 10ga wire to various spots.

 

[theman440]

Update -
I could not use the crank scraper as it was designed because of the girdle. Normally it would bolt on between the pan and block like a factory windage tray. The girdle would space it too far away from the crank. I ended up welding some steel plates into the girdle, drilled and tapped them then cut out pieces of the scraper in the proper shapes to bolt to the welded plates. After I got the scraper(s) adjusted properly I drilled small holes thru the assemblies to permanently locate them.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Between the scrapers and the screen,windage will not be an issue.

 

[theman440]

I couldn't help myself. I didn't like how the ends of the windage screen just "hung" out there, the bend on the one side stiffened it up some but I felt it wasn't enough. I fabbed up a couple brackets to support the ends of the screen. Here is a pic of one end.

Now it's time to blow it apart and clean everything up for final assembly. I got a little done last night.

 

[oldbee]

Electrolysis also happens from electrical issues on the car. Awhile back I read a thread about one guys issue chasing it down. He added the anodes too but still killed two Ron Davis radiators. He finally found that one of his dash switches was bad and back feeding current. That was the cause of his issues. Make sure you have good grounds in your system, not just one 10ga wire calling it good. Run the neg batt lead to the engine and from there branch off with several straps or at least 10ga wire to various spots.

Exactly, does anyone remember that little white stripe that ran lengthwise on a hose? Guess what, poke a test light from battery positive to that stripe and the light comes on.(another ground) Just trying to keep the knowledge going on.

 

[padam]

Exactly, does anyone remember that little white stripe that ran lengthwise on a hose? Guess what, poke a test light from battery positive to that stripe and the light comes on.(another ground) Just trying to keep the knowledge going on.

 

[padam]

Exactly, does anyone remember that little white stripe that ran lengthwise on a hose? Guess what, poke a test light from battery positive to that stripe and the light comes on.(another ground) Just trying to keep the knowledge going on.

I think most rubber hoses are conductive to some extent.

 

[oldbee]

I think most rubber hoses are conductive to some extent.

I was told the white stripe was grounding connection, way back when. Normal rubber should be an insulator.

 

[padam]

I was told the white stripe was grounding connection, way back when. Normal rubber should be an insulator.

I was going to use heater hose to insulate plug wires in some spots where the touched metal. I looked into it and found out it is conductive.

 

[oldbee]

I was going to use heater hose to insulate plug wires in some spots where the touched metal. I looked into it and found out it is conductive.

Hmmm.

 

[moparedtn]

Depends on what type of "rubber" you're talking about; that's a very generic term by itself.
Common neoprene rubber, for example, is NON-conductive:
https://www.casertainc.com/blog/nit...ed,makes it a common material for hose covers.

 

[padam]

Yes, but I had a hard time finding out about specific hose properties.

 

[theman440]

Did my thread get highjacked?

 

[padam]

Did my thread get highjacked?

Sorry.

 

[ckessel]

Ditto.

 

[theman440]

It's OK guys - the thread will get more visibility this way!