ckessel
Well-Known Member
Probably a moot point now but check out control cables.com out of Santa Fe Springs Ca. They make cables.
New bullet for the "Brick"
- Thread starter theman440
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- Jan 15, 2020
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- Okeechobee, Florida
Good deal! I waffling on the 383 stroker for mine and may just wait out a 426H.
snook
snook
theman440
Well-Known Member
Moving along - been checking bearing clearances, had an issue with the #3 main but managed to get it figured out. Main journal clearance ended up at .003-.0035. Next problem - the alignment of the #3 cap and saddle (front to rear) is not right. This causes an issue with the thrust surfaces, After a call to the machinist I will be shipping the cap to him so he can ream out the stud holes so the cap can be adjusted (fore or aft) and have the thrust surfaces be flush. Checked piston pin clearances - all good then started on the rods. Got three measured and started seeing a pattern - all have .003-.0035 clearance. I'm lookin' for .0025 - looks like I'll be buying more bearings. So after all the headaches I decided too move on to something else -
I am going to run a pan-evac system on this engine but I dont really like the goofy breathers in the valve covers and hoses flopping around the engine compartment. I will have a breather box mounted on the valley cover to sit under the intake.
I got this Hammond "Chassis box" it is aluminum, has a removable lid and will be welded to the valley plate. I drilled holes thru the bottom of it at the rear that also go thru the valley cover into the valley.
On the bottom of the valley cover this plate will be welded to cover the holes for oil baffling/splash shielding. Hard to see but the sides are open to allow for air flow.
The box will be divided into 2 chambers, these tubes enter the box from the rear, pass thru the divider (shown) into the front chamber. The tubes are -10 AN tubing that I bead rolled the ends on. The rear chamber will be packed with stainless or copper mesh and the front with foam just like the usual breathers are.
Here is what the pieces look like installed in the box -
I chamfered the holes and also ground some grooves in the bottom of the box to help facilitate oil drainage, the bolt is temporary -
Here is the assembly sitting on the valley cover on the block. I did mock up the heads and intake to make sure it will fit under there. Note: the tubes point to the rear of the engine, the hoses will go straight back curve back between the heads and firewall then down to the check valves. The engine compartment will look much cleaner this way IMO.
Next step is to get the assembly welded together, see you next time!
I am going to run a pan-evac system on this engine but I dont really like the goofy breathers in the valve covers and hoses flopping around the engine compartment. I will have a breather box mounted on the valley cover to sit under the intake.
I got this Hammond "Chassis box" it is aluminum, has a removable lid and will be welded to the valley plate. I drilled holes thru the bottom of it at the rear that also go thru the valley cover into the valley.
On the bottom of the valley cover this plate will be welded to cover the holes for oil baffling/splash shielding. Hard to see but the sides are open to allow for air flow.
The box will be divided into 2 chambers, these tubes enter the box from the rear, pass thru the divider (shown) into the front chamber. The tubes are -10 AN tubing that I bead rolled the ends on. The rear chamber will be packed with stainless or copper mesh and the front with foam just like the usual breathers are.
Here is what the pieces look like installed in the box -
I chamfered the holes and also ground some grooves in the bottom of the box to help facilitate oil drainage, the bolt is temporary -
Here is the assembly sitting on the valley cover on the block. I did mock up the heads and intake to make sure it will fit under there. Note: the tubes point to the rear of the engine, the hoses will go straight back curve back between the heads and firewall then down to the check valves. The engine compartment will look much cleaner this way IMO.
Next step is to get the assembly welded together, see you next time!
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theman440
Well-Known Member
Been awhile, life gets in the way but finally an update. I mentioned in an earlier post I sent my thrust main cap out to get the holes reamed. I got it back threw the crank in the block and checked the thrust - the spec is .004-.010 it was at .010, Not good enough for me so I bought another set of bearings. Now the thrust was right at minimum .004 but the journal clearances were too tight sooooooooo buy more bearings! Got a set of .001 over shells and finally on Sunday in 107 degree heat I'm finished with the main bearings.
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theman440
Well-Known Member
I didn't think there would be any clearance issues with the 4.15 stroke crank but I installed 4 piston & rod assemblies and put them in each corner and took a look. Plenty of clearance at the pickup tube boss and at the bottom of the bores. I imagine if I was using standard RB big end rods there would be clearance issues. I also checked piston to deck height while I was at it. I ended up with more than I wanted but we'll be OK. So far rod side clearance has been .015 & .016, hopefully the rest will be the same. I ordered a set of .001 undersize rod bearings and am still waiting for them to come in.
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not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
I think u need a hair more thrust clearance , I prefer between .006-.008 , u sure u got the upper and lower lined up correctly ?
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
Interested , let us know how that works out ------------
theman440
Well-Known Member
Update,
Now that it has cooled off here in the desert time to get back at it. Not much progress as of late, got some stuff on order, Dvorak windage screen & crank scraper kit, also I have been searching for a decent used steering wheel for years for the car. Mine had some serious cracks in it. I finally gave up and sent it out to get restored by Charlie Quarters in Michigan. It is done and is on it's way back right now. I'll post some pictures later. I did not want to buy an aftermarket steering wheel because I use the horn ring for the line lock. One thing I was worried about was the steering drag link interference with the oil pan because the girdle is 1/2 thick (spacing the pan down) I was also worried about oil pan clearance with the K frame in the right front. Clearance was real tight on my old oil pan without a girdle - id hate to assemble the motor then try to install it and find the pan hits the draglink or k member. Just so happens I have another block, I threw it in the car with the trans and test fit the pan with the girdle - no issues. Photos -
K-Member - OK
Steering centered -
Steering all the way right -
Now that it has cooled off here in the desert time to get back at it. Not much progress as of late, got some stuff on order, Dvorak windage screen & crank scraper kit, also I have been searching for a decent used steering wheel for years for the car. Mine had some serious cracks in it. I finally gave up and sent it out to get restored by Charlie Quarters in Michigan. It is done and is on it's way back right now. I'll post some pictures later. I did not want to buy an aftermarket steering wheel because I use the horn ring for the line lock. One thing I was worried about was the steering drag link interference with the oil pan because the girdle is 1/2 thick (spacing the pan down) I was also worried about oil pan clearance with the K frame in the right front. Clearance was real tight on my old oil pan without a girdle - id hate to assemble the motor then try to install it and find the pan hits the draglink or k member. Just so happens I have another block, I threw it in the car with the trans and test fit the pan with the girdle - no issues. Photos -
K-Member - OK
Steering centered -
Steering all the way right -
That look's grate. Hope the steering wheel look's good for you. Mine was all broken up also but found one in good shape and it had the trident horn pad that I really wanted. Good luck with the build.
theman440
Well-Known Member
Also,
In a previous post I showed how had enlarged the coolant passage in the pump housing I had but I was concerned that it was still inadequate. I decided to buy a Mancini housing to compare it to mine. If it wasn't any better id just return it well, I'm glad I did! The same coolant passage in the Mancini unit is at least double the size of my other housing! And there is a bonus, the Mancini housing is 2lbs lighter!
No-name on the left, Mancini on the right
No-name housing -
Mancini housing -
In a previous post I showed how had enlarged the coolant passage in the pump housing I had but I was concerned that it was still inadequate. I decided to buy a Mancini housing to compare it to mine. If it wasn't any better id just return it well, I'm glad I did! The same coolant passage in the Mancini unit is at least double the size of my other housing! And there is a bonus, the Mancini housing is 2lbs lighter!
No-name on the left, Mancini on the right
No-name housing -
Mancini housing -
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
I hope u have more success with that girdle than I did . I finally gave up on it , got tired of the oil leaks that I could not stop , tried everything everybody sugested ---------
moparcrazy
Well-Known Member
I put a Vacuum Pump on , Zero leaks
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theman440
Well-Known Member
Where were your leaks?
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
ALWAYS AROUND THE REAR MAIN AND OIL PAN AREA, BUT THAT WAS WITH AN OLD FUNNY CAR ALUM. PAN-----------??
Milodon 9 qt now , running 6'' of crankcase vacuum =no oil leaks long as the vacuum is there--------??
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