New mechanical fuel pump not working

[khryslerkid]

OK, I am confused. I just replaced my cam last year and my fuel pump has a lever, not a push rod. Is the 440 different than the 383? I thought they where just about the same except for the bore. What am I missing here?

You have a Chevy engine!

 

[oldbee]

Ranger is confused... Love it!

 

[Ranger16]

View attachment 505640 You must of had your fuel pump off the engine when you changed the cam? I don't think cam would come out if pump was on the engine. The rod drives the lever from the cam.

Yes, the pump was off. I guess I just don't remember the rod. I seem to recall the lever riding on the cam. As they say, "the memory is the second thing to go".

 

[Ranger16]

Ranger is confused... Love it!

Yup.

EDIT:
Just watched a youtube video. Memory is returning. It's hell to get old. I don't recommend it.

 

[Wietse]

Pretty unexpected, but i already received the NOS push rod i bought off Ebay.
Weird, sometimes is so fast and sometimes takes forever.

Anyway see the pictures, measurements are good and looks like new and unused so was as advertised.

Maybe stupid question, but this push rod can go in either way right?
I test fitted it and moves nice and smooth in the bore.
Plan was to use the other (non NOS) rods but they are just send so might take another week to get here.
This was holding me up with the work so guess i will use this instead for now.
Maybe later i can still change it out for the other ones.
As i have a precise measurement i can compare it's length after a few miles and see if there really is excessive wear happening.

 

[440+6]

Pretty unexpected, but i already received the NOS push rod i bought off Ebay.
Weird, sometimes is so fast and sometimes takes forever.

Anyway see the pictures, measurements are good and looks like new and unused so was as advertised.

Maybe stupid question, but this push rod can go in either way right?
I test fitted it and moves nice and smooth in the bore.
Plan was to use the other (non NOS) rods but they are just send so might take another week to get here.
This was holding me up with the work so guess i will use this instead for now.
Maybe later i can still change it out for the other ones.
As i have a precise measurement i can compare it's length after a few miles and see if there really is excessive wear happening.

View attachment 507382 View attachment 507383 View attachment 507384

Glad you got the nos one I linked for you, make sure you use assembly lube on the ends when you install it.
Some lube on the shaft will help hold it in place to install the pump, also turn over engine so the eccentric lets the rod go up all the way, makes install easier.

 

[miller]

And, yeah, it can go in either way.

 

[firiepete]

Hi. My experience was to have broken down 3 hrs from home. I found the pushrod had worn approx 6mm. I replaced the pushrod and mechanical fuel pump. Still did not work. A lot of work to remove the cam and have the lobe repaired. Have now now bought a Tanks Inc fuel tank and fitted a Walbro electric pump. Great result. Idles better. I was reluctant to fit an Electric fuel pump yet I highly recommend. Good luck. (Pete from down under)

 

[dancingsteven]

That is the problem! The pump is made in China just like GM products are made now! I would try to get a refund or a replacement I had the same problem with a 70 Challenger 440 engine back in the mid 80s went to get gas got the gas drove away from the pump and about 30 feet she died! The 1st thing I checked was for fuel pump nothing was coming out of the pump, got another pump and bam down the road I went with my hair on fire!

 

[Wietse]

Most likely the old pump still works, i opened it up and cleaned it out but did not find any damaged components.
The lever on the pump shows minimal wear and i am sure it will still do it's job so i keep it as a spare.

My guess is that when the pushrod gets too much wear, length wise, that there is no spring tension anymore it will run to **** in no time.
That rod will be bouncing around in there like a maniak.
Thinking about it, when i did a test drive i remember hearing a high tone pinging sound coming from the engine thinking it is pre detonation but maybe i heard the pushrod flying about.

Now i am waiting for some better weather to get it out of the garage to setup the carb and ignition.
I had it running again and let it run for some time and did not stall so far, but instead it started to kill me with all the exhaust fumes (rich mix) in the garage so i had to bail.

 

[Joske2]

you know moparshop in Germany?
they have all that stuff in stock, next day delivery.
just to let you know

 

[Wietse]

OMG, why i never knew....
That saves a hell of a lot of time and money.
Prices are high, but taking taxes etc. into account it would end up the same i guess.
Thanks for that man!!

 

[Joske2]

OMG, why i never knew....
That saves a hell of a lot of time and money.
Prices are high, but taking taxes etc. into account it would end up the same i guess.
Thanks for that man!!

Your welcome

 

[RRChick]

Hey all,

Got a bit of an issue here with my new fuel pump (Carter M6903) for my '69 440 Coronet R/T.
There is plenty fuel coming from the supply line, once i release the suction hose it is pouring out.
Using a vacuum pump and pull the fuel through the pump and filter also shows plenty fuel coming through.
When cranking the engine with the pump discharge hose disconnected and put in a bucket there is no fuel coming at all.
Checked the push rod in the engine which slides nice and easy and made sure the pump lever sits in front of it. (guess that if that is not the case it will not go in anyway)
The pump lever has a small stroke of "easy" movement which is against the spring that can be seen, after it gets very hard but returns to it's original position. (Compared with my old pump it feels the same)

What could be the issue here?
Being able to suck fuel through shows there is no blockages, has to be the pump imo.
Just to confirm, there should be nothing in between the pump push rod and the operating lever right?
Nothing that could fall out and end up in the sump?

Hi there, have experienced this problem before. Assuming your pushrod and camshaft etc are ok it is probably the pump.If the new pump has been siting around for a while any seals/gaskets may be dried up. In my case I submerged my pump in petrol overnight also checked that all fittings/screws were tight, then refitted the pump. It worked immediately. Hope this is of some help.

 

[Wietse]

I've pulled the push rod again today to check it's condition.
Done around 40-50 miles on it and found it was 0.002" shorter then before, so guess that is break-in wear.
Looks like the push rod is rotating during operation as well so it's "wearing" evenly and the camshaft end of the rod was very smooth.
I will do the same again after maybe 150-200 miles, at that time i guess will pull the distributor as well and check the camshaft for any potential horror occurring there.
Think it will be ok.

I did some long runs under a decent amount of load, but after severely exceeding the local speed limit and she was still going strong so guess the issues i had are history!

 

[ynst]

I just bought that NOS push rod of Ebay, guess it was the last one.
I will also order 2 from Summit as mentioned above. (i like spares)

The oil i am using is as per the mechanic from the shop i bought the car as according him this is the right oil for high performance engines, specially with flat tapped followers.
Kendal GT1 Racing Green oil, believe 20W50. (need to check)

My guess is that this push rod has been wearing already for a long time, i replaced the oil recently and have driven only a few miles on it so far.
I always check the drained oil for any metal and contamination and found clean oil without metal filings etc.

Kendal GT1 hasn't had zinc in it for years.

Valvoline VR-1 racing oil still has zinc in it. Use 20W50. That's what I run in my 440.

....and, judging from your pictures, the point of contact on your cam appears to be recessed vs. the un-worn portion of the cam lobe.
Time for a new cam as you're down beyond the case hardening on the cam.