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No oil to rocker arms?

Mopar-Charger

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I rebuilt my engine about 200 miles ago, pulled the valve covers because the rockers were loud.

Ended up because they didn't get any oil.

drained the oil, new filter, bought a primer and tried to get it to work.

However when I drill it feels like its hitting the other gears even when it's pulled up. But still no oil to the rockers...

Any suggestions? It's a new oil pump (high volume) I'll post pics if needed
 
be sure you're spinning the drill the correct way (backwards for big block, forwards for small), you'll have to turn the motor over slowly as you're priming to line up the oil passages in the cam w/ the heads

worse case scenario you've got a cam bearing that's not in the right way
 
The rocker arms have two holes at each end? I didn't know they had to be in, in an exact way?

Turn the crank and the shaft clockwise correct? When will i know the oil passages are lined up? The engine is in the car, so can't i just turn the starter?

I never swapped the cam, so could a cam bearing still be a problem?
 
The number 4 cam journal has 2 holes drilled thru it. If you look at an old cam, you can see the way its drilled. The 2 holes intersect at the center of the cam, at about a 110 degree angle. Then as the cam turns, one hole lines up with the oil feed port at the bottom of the cam bearing. At the same time, the other hole is lined up with the oil feed passage from the cam to the cyl head. So once every cam revolution, the holes are lined up and the oil is fed thru the cam journal to the rocker arm shaft. Then as the cam turns, the other side lines up and a shot of oil goes up to the other head. If one head is not getting oil, then the oil passage to that head is blocked.
 
Yes the end of each rocker shaft has a v notch cut in them make sure the notch is down. Spin the priming tool counter clockwise
 
the rocker shafts will go on upside down, that is with rocker holes up instead of down....but they will get oil if installed wrong....but if you are getting "NO" oil up top, on both sides, then I say a cam bearing may have spun to block the oil feed holes. Or possibly the main bearing is installed wrong as well?

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Yes the end of each rocker shaft has a v notch cut in them make sure the notch is down. Spin the priming tool counter clockwise

yes, notch goes down, but oil holes must be facing exhaust valves when installed correctly...service manual will show this
 
Did they replace the cam bearings during the re build? Normally that would be a part of the job.
 
The rocker arms have two holes at each end? I didn't know they had to be in, in an exact way?

Rocker arms...there are right, and left...or, intake, and exhaust rocker arms. Yes, they must be in the right positions. Service manual will show.
Rocker shafts...same deal, need to be mounted right.

Did you use the same rocker shafts, when you rebuilt the motor? If so, did you clean them out? Their hollow, and can sludge up, blocking oil flow.

You can always pull the rocker assemblies, shafts and arms, and check for oil flow to the shafts. Just pull your spark plugs, put the trans in neutral, and pull your dizzy, and drive gear. Then you can do the pre-oil bit, to check that oil flow to each head (and where your rocker assemblies would be).

Just telling to pull the spark plugs, so you can turn the motor over, if needed, by hand.
 
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Rocker arms...there are right, and left...or, intake, and exhaust rocker arms. Yes, they must be in the right positions. Service manual will show.
Rocker shafts...same deal, need to be mounted right.

Did you use the same rocker shafts, when you rebuilt the motor? If so, did you clean them out? Their hollow, and can sludge up, blocking oil flow.

You can always pull the rocker assemblies, shafts and arms, and check for oil flow to the shafts. Just pull your spark plugs, put the trans in neutral, and pull your dizzy, and drive gear. Then you can do the pre-oil bit, to check that oil flow to each head (and where your rocker assemblies would be).

Just telling to pull the spark plugs, so you can turn the motor over, if needed, by hand.

Okay, when i took the engine apart, I noted where each rod went and kept them in that order. When I get home I'll pull them out and look for the v noch you guys are talking about.

Engine ran fine before I pulled it, I just wanted to replace the seals and the oil pump to fit with the new intake +2.02 heads I installed.

I didn't remove the bearings for the cam, like I said, it ran fine, and still runs good it's just missing the oiling part!

The number 4 cam journal has 2 holes drilled thru it. If you look at an old cam, you can see the way its drilled. The 2 holes intersect at the center of the cam, at about a 110 degree angle. Then as the cam turns, one hole lines up with the oil feed port at the bottom of the cam bearing. At the same time, the other hole is lined up with the oil feed passage from the cam to the cyl head. So once every cam revolution, the holes are lined up and the oil is fed thru the cam journal to the rocker arm shaft. Then as the cam turns, the other side lines up and a shot of oil goes up to the other head. If one head is not getting oil, then the oil passage to that head is blocked.


Prior to installing the heads I made sure that the gaskets line up with each of the holes? Thanks for explaining about the cam, I was completely lost.
 
put a mechanical gauge in the other oil pressure hole and prime the motor using a drill...see what the pressure is. Make sure you spin the oil pump the correct direction that the rotor goes when engine is running. Note oil pressure and report back
 
put a mechanical gauge in the other oil pressure hole and prime the motor using a drill...see what the pressure is. Make sure you spin the oil pump the correct direction that the rotor goes when engine is running. Note oil pressure and report back

It's a small block. I used the drill and turned the wheel clockwise only. Someone previously said counter-clockwise... I'm hearing both? Anyways, I did that and I got about 20-40 PSI. But that was a slow spin because it felt as if the gear was still grinding on the cam gear while I did it?
 
It's a small block. I used the drill and turned the wheel clockwise only. Someone previously said counter-clockwise... I'm hearing both? Anyways, I did that and I got about 20-40 PSI. But that was a slow spin because it felt as if the gear was still grinding on the cam gear while I did it?
On a big block the oil pump and dist turn counter clock wise. Small block they turn clock wise.
 
It's a small block. I used the drill and turned the wheel clockwise only. Someone previously said counter-clockwise... I'm hearing both? Anyways, I did that and I got about 20-40 PSI. But that was a slow spin because it felt as if the gear was still grinding on the cam gear while I did it?
you are supposed to use a priming shaft with no gear on it that engages the oil pump. What are you trying to turn with the drill??
 
I pulled the dist and stuck the priming tool in where the distributor went? Had the flat head whole on it?
 
You have to remove the distibutor shaft and use a long hex priming shaft that engages the pump only.
 
Ahhh Ok, that makes sense. Where Do i find a hex priming shaft? The only ones autozone and advnaced have look like the ends of a flat head screw driver.

Sorry If i sound like an amateur, I just want to get it right.
 
You may want to pull the valve cover that you think is not getting oil to the rockers, run the motor and see if any oil at all is going into the rocker arms on that side. Check this area first to make sure of what the prob is. Could be something else causing noisy rockers.
 
You may want to pull the valve cover that you think is not getting oil to the rockers, run the motor and see if any oil at all is going into the rocker arms on that side. Check this area first to make sure of what the prob is. Could be something else causing noisy rockers.

It's definitely no oil, the rods and rockers were bone dry.

How to get the gear out? So I can go directly to the oil pump?

Is it a hex socket or just like the end of a hex wrench
 
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