No power to coil wire when cranking. Help ty

[NSS Guy]

After reading more, you need to tie ignition switch wires 1&2 together to keep constant 12v to the coil no matter what position the key switch is in ( run or start).
Hope this helps

 

[Vertburt]

After reading more, you need to tie ignition switch wires 1&2 together to keep constant 12v to the coil no matter what position the key switch is in ( run or start).
Hope this helps

Ok. Tell me more where are they. Thank u

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Basically you bypass the ballast resistor and jump across it.

 

[7t500]

Ok. Tell me more where are they. Thank u

If you're running RTR, what you need to do depends on which coil and where it needs constant 12v. Assuming you have a could that does need 12v, take out the ballast and make a piece of wire that connects the 2 female connectors that were on the ballast.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Look at the top schematic it tells you to bypass the ballast resistor.

 

[Vertburt]

Ok I have tried that and still same results. I will try again. Thanks

 

[NSS Guy]

Ok. Tell me more where are they. Thank u

The wires are usually dark blue and brown coming from the bulkhead connector

 

[Ranger16]

the positive coil wire gets power in the run position but when I crank it,I lose power to the wire until I go back to run position.

You are not getting power from the IGN1 contact on the ignition switch. I had a similar problem where the car would crank, but not start until I release the key to the IGN2 contact. I checked the switch and it was good. What I found was what appeared to be a bad contact at the fire wall bulkhead connector. Follow the supply wire (brown wire I believe) from the ballast resistor back to the bulkhead connector. Back probe that wire while cranking. If you have no voltage, pull that connector and use a small thin screwdriver to very slightly bend one of the spade connectors just enough to get a more positive contact. If that does not help (it did for me), then you may have a bad ignition switch.

During cranking, power is supplied from IGN1(crank) through the bulkhead, to the double wire on the ballast resistor, bypassing it and giving full 12v to the coil. When you release the key and go to the IGN2 (run) position, power goes from IGN2 through the bulkhead to the single wire on the ballast resistor and THROUGH the ballast resistor at reduced voltage, then to the coil.

I hope this makes sense and that I got the ING1 & IGN2 correctly. Someone please correct me if I got that wrong.

 

[Vertburt]

Hey. I got it. The brown wire had a bad connection in the bulkhead. Thank you for all the help.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

No problem glad you got it figured out.