Not the ballast resistor?

[gkirksey]

So my 70 Charger 440 won't start, again. Doesn't seem to get any spark until I turn the ignition key backwards and then a brief fire. This has always been the tell-tale sign of a ballast resistor for me. But I just dropped in a new one and nothing. Same issue.

Where else should I look?

Thanks.

 

[dadsbee]

Bad ballast resistor = engine fires cranking and dies when you put the key in the run position.

Disconnect your starter relay wire, get someone to hold the key in the crank postion and check for voltage to the coil.

Now if you have a non stock ECU on your car and or electronic ignition of some sort... the above doesn't necessarily apply!

 

[Joe Del Monte]

Put a jumper wire across the ballast resistor, if this works your ignition circuit is bad. Check the ballast with a ohm meter.

 

[Dave6T4]

Also a sign that magnetic pick-up in electronic distributor is failing.

 

[Don Frelier]

It could be the bulkhead connector as well.
Pull it apart and check the terminals carefully.

 

[Kern Dog]

So my 70 Charger 440 won't start, again. Doesn't seem to get any spark until I turn the ignition key backwards and then a brief fire. This has always been the tell-tale sign of a ballast resistor for me. But I just dropped in a new one and nothing. Same issue.

Where else should I look?

Thanks.

When a person wants help on a car forum, it really is to their benefit for them to give as much information as possible. You didn't state whether your car is all stock, has an electronic ignition conversion, what distributor you have, what coil , etc.

Bad ballast resistor = engine fires cranking and dies when you put the key in the run position.

I have had the exact same symptoms that the OP has. I've never been able to confirm exactly what causes it. I've gone months without it happening and sometimes it just returns. Rarely has it been the resistor. I've changed the ECM, ballast, coil and even tested another ignition switch. I cleaned the bulkhead and packed the plug with dielectric grease and was fine for months until both the ECM and ballast failed at the same time.

Also a sign that magnetic pick-up in electronic distributor is failing.

I've considered this many times but have always been able to get the car to start after swapping out other parts. It is still a valid suggestion though.

It could be the bulkhead connector as well.
Pull it apart and check the terminals carefully.

I wish the OP luck on this. I cleaned mine and thought that I eliminated the problem. I drove maybe 1200-1300 miles after doing this with no issues, then one day I lost spark again. It was the ECM and ballast as stated above.

 

[Daves69]

............Where else should I look?

I've found this helpful when doing the electronic ignition conversion on my '69.............

 

[MarPar]

 

[dadsbee]

This is the issue when not enough information is supplied by the OP.

We can throw darts all day.... OE points system?? MSD?? 4 pin ECU?? Electronic pick up, stand alone distributor??

 

[kiwigtx]

 

[Bee1971]

Volt Meter

Test Light

 

[gkirksey]

This is the issue when not enough information is supplied by the OP.

We can throw darts all day.... OE points system?? MSD?? 4 pin ECU?? Electronic pick up, stand alone distributor??

This is the issue when not enough information is supplied by the OP.

We can throw darts all day.... OE points system?? MSD?? 4 pin ECU?? Electronic pick up, stand alone distributor??

well shame on me.

 

[dadsbee]

well shame on me.

You're welcome for the advise! Guess you don't really want it fixed....

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a car and it doesn't run. What could it be?

What kind of car? What engine? Was it running fine before? Is the battery charged? Does the starter engage and spin the engine over? Does it have gasoline? How fresh that fuel ? Are you getting spark to the spark plugs? If so, how strong is the spark?

These forums often have members that LOVE to help people fix their cars. I know that I do.
I have to admit though, the person asking for help NEEDS to explain themselves properly. There is no reason why the other members should have to dig for information to help YOU.
Could you imagine your neighbor asking you to help him move a couch but doesn't say when he needs help.....when you DO get there, you have to move all sorts of stuff out of the way?
You need to make it easy for people to help you....or they won't try to help you.

 

[Joe Del Monte]

Wow this went off the rails

 

[Bee1971]

At the end of the day

Gave some advice

Asked some questions

And we got

"Shame on me"

Happy Halloween

 

[1967coronet]

well shame on me.

Dang man , don't get your shorts in a wad.
These guys are just trying to help.
We/ they need more info on the ignition set up in your car.
Now you have to buy a round and try again.

 

[jdsgtx]

So my 70 Charger 440 won't start, again. Doesn't seem to get any spark until I turn the ignition key backwards and then a brief fire. This has always been the tell-tale sign of a ballast resistor for me. But I just dropped in a new one and nothing. Same issue.

Where else should I look?

Thanks.

I’d replace the relay

 

[mopar jack]

I have this same problem with my 71 barracuda and believe it is the ignition switch. I have had original switches fail the same way. I believe the problem is that when you rotate the key against the return spring it tries to push the body apart and causes poor contact on the start contacts when you release the key the contacts return and the run contacts connect allowing the car to start.

 

[mopar jack]

I have had intermittent problems with aftermarket ignition switches at the connector. I usually pull the connectors and squeeze the ends to make a tighter connection.