Oil changes, what do you use?

[Dan64]

Buying three cases of PennGrade hurts.. just did that. 10/30 for the Bee, 10/40 for the Dart and 20/50 for the Bird. $579 Canuck bucks for 36 quarts.

Ouch, i'm paying a hundred bucks a case for any flavor. It is good stuff, the only oil my engine builder will use along with Wix filters.

 

[Frank Mopar]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/search/107222863/?q=what+oil&o=relevance

As dadsbee pointed out, its already been answered a million times and there are a million different answers

 

[toolmanmike]

10/30 Valvoline Conventional with some Rislone Zinc additive.

 

[Ron H]

When I had some overheating hassles I stumbled across how some engine oils can retain heat, notably high viscosity racing oils. I was running 20/50 hi-zinc (solid lifters). Also noticed how the oil pressure stayed very high. Some of this reading discussed how heavier oils can impede performance. Discussion advised heavy vis racing oils are for racing, not for street driving. I switched to 10/30 racing oil and while I did several things on the hunt to reduce engine temp, oil pressure was more in the range where it should be and motor running cooler. No clue if the oil swap made any contribution after all the chit I did. I'm using Valvoline I have to special order as the stores I've been to never stock the stuff. My ride never goes more than 1500 miles on an oil change, more often under a 1000 miles, so figure breakdown shouldn't enter the picture.

 

[Ranger16]

you should NOT put Rotella in your gas engine. Rotella is designed and formulated for diesel engines, not gas engines...

"Shell Rotella T is a line of heavy duty engine lubrication products produced by Royal Dutch Shell. The line includes engine oils, gear oils and coolants. The oil carries both the American Petroleum Institute (API) diesel "C" rating as well as the API gasoline engine "S" rating. Ratings differ based on the oil. Rotella oils like T3 15w-40 meets both the API CJ-4 and SM specifications, and may be used in both gasoline and diesel engines. However, it is formulated specifically for vehicles without catalytic converters, containing phosphorus levels beyond the 600-800ppm range.[1] Therefore, Rotella is not recommended for gasoline vehicles with catalytic converters due to the higher risk of damaging these emission controls.[citation needed][2] Newer formulations of Rotella T6 however are API SM rated as safe for pre-2011 gasoline vehicles."

 

[Lngbrdz]

As dadsbee pointed out, its already been answered a million times and there are a million different answers

Your absolutely right, however its today and not 1 year ago 5 years ago or 10 years ago. Some things people ran 5 years ago arent available today. And my build is a completely rebuild 440 60 over. I currently live in SoCal but plan on moving to a much colder climate in the near future, so what I run here amsoil Zrod 10w-30 with Wix filter gets me a steady 60psi at 200 miles. However at 100,000 miles when there is some wear on tolerances and pressure drops, it won't be sufficient anymore. However if I live in a colder weather area and I start to see higher pressures I will drop to a 5w-30 maybe. So just seeing what certain people run in differents areas with different mileages is nice to see. The brand is not what you should be shopping for. However if a brand is prone to breaking down in our older iron block engines faster, then it would be nice to know. The weight of the oil should be driven by pressures and the additives driven by what equipment is being used. So far my Zrod is working great, but its only been 200 miles on the rebuil so far. My flat tappet without catalytic converter should be getting high zinc and phosphorus additives and because SoCal in the beach areas is 60-80 almost year round 10w-30 with the new tighter tolerances is getting the pressure you need. My father would have shot me 5 years ago if I wasnt running penzoil conventional in my cars. Now adays if you are running that you either don't care, are uneducated in lubrication, or cheap.

 

[moparedtn]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/search/107222863/?q=what+oil&o=relevance

Thank you, Dad. This topic has certainly been beaten to death on here - and is perfect for the OP
to use the "SEARCH" box in the upper right corner of the site.

 

[Mebsuta]

Super Tech HD straight 30, Fram PH8A because I like the grippy stuff on Frams.

I have used everything that starts with a 10 all the way to straight 40 and didn't really notice a big difference.

 

[Lngbrdz]

Super Tech HD straight 30, Fram PH8A because I like the grippy stuff on Frams.

I have used everything that starts with a 10 all the way to straight 40 and didn't really notice a big difference.

Thanks for your input

 

[Ranger16]

I wouldn't touch a Fram filter if they where free.

 

[jeepthrills01]

Valvoline VR......yeah i change it every 1000 miles...but im only putting 4000-5000 miles a year.

 

[threewood]

Driven HR2, 10w30

 

[Dave6T4]

I use Castrol GTX (they don't make R/T oil ) 10W40 in my '67 R/T. I live in Ontario, Canada and drive it from middle of April to end of October to miss "salt season". I add a container of GM Engine Oil Supplement at each oil change. You can buy it at GM parts counter. Once a year, about 2,000 miles. Fram PH8 filter. This is not a race car, just a cruiser. Almost 30 years and 65,000 miles since engine rebuild with no problems.

 

[Slap Stick]

Lesser....oil, filter, drain pan, oil filter wrench and drain plug wrench.
And my friend, Jack.
And bier.

 

[1967coronet]

To break in my new flat taper cam in my 440 I used Gibbs 30wt break in oil.
After that I switched back to my usual
15-40 rotella with a pint of Lucas zinc additive. Oil pressure at 180 temp is 30psi at idle and 50 on the road at high way speed.