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Oil pick up openings depend on what?

Out of curiosity, what are you guys doing to make sure the pick up is where it's supposed to be as far as height? The oil pans are obviously not transparent and this is with the motor in the car.
In other words, being that the pick ups are a pipe thread screw on type that eventually stops when it gets tight, how is it known if it's at that crucial 3/8 - 1/4 height off the floor?
I would think a lot of trial and fit and measuring at certain points.
 
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Out of curiosity, what are you guys doing to make sure the pick up is where it's supposed to be as far as height? The oil pans are obviously not transparent and this is with the motor in the car.
In other words, being that the pick ups are a pipe thread screw on type that eventually stops when it gets tight, how is it known if it's at that crucial 3/8 - 1/4 height off the floor?
I would think a lot of trial and fit and measuring at certain points.
I measure the pan depth from the gasket rail and add in the tray (if used) and add a tad for the gasket(s) and then measure the pickup from the pan rail on the block. If it stops in the threads too deep I'll cut the threads on the pickup a bit. If it's too shallow, I'll grab another pickup and try that one. I still have several left over.
 
I measure the pan depth from the gasket rail and add in the tray (if used) and add a tad for the gasket(s) and then measure the pickup from the pan rail on the block. If it stops in the threads too deep I'll cut the threads on the pickup a bit. If it's too shallow, I'll grab another pickup and try that one. I still have several left over.
I thought that would be the case. Thank you for refreshing the memory banks.
 
From piston/valve clearances to oil pan/pick up clearances. Duly noted. Thank you.

Was many yrs. ago ,when I first switched to s.stock , I bought a full length /tie rod tube pan off of Jim Hale .
I bolted the pan on the block(on engine stand/bottom up), with the pan setting off to one side hanging out in the air , built the extensions out of 1/2'' pipe and coupled them together , had to cut a special length of pipe and thread it , then heated and adjusted the pick up angle after everything was tite , with 3/8'' clearance "like Tom Hoover told me" , no braces , that was
in the early 70`s , still on the engine to this day .
I`m trying to figure way , $ wise to buy it back , will get serious when and (if) the guy gets the 66 belvedere body back together , he was restoring it to factory. I don't have any ambition to tackle body work any more , the hemi would be a diff story , I`d love it !
 
Was many yrs. ago ,when I first switched to s.stock , I bought a full length /tie rod tube pan off of Jim Hale .
I bolted the pan on the block(on engine stand/bottom up), with the pan setting off to one side hanging out in the air , built the extensions out of 1/2'' pipe and coupled them together , had to cut a special length of pipe and thread it , then heated and adjusted the pick up angle after everything was tite , with 3/8'' clearance "like Tom Hoover told me" , no braces , that was
in the early 70`s , still on the engine to this day .
I`m trying to figure way , $ wise to buy it back , will get serious when and (if) the guy gets the 66 belvedere body back together , he was restoring it to factory. I don't have any ambition to tackle body work any more , the hemi would be a diff story , I`d love it !

By the way that engine had a 785 lift cam dynamics roller in it , bought it used off of Steve Carbone , had to win a race to pay for it ...memories are made of this ...
 
Swinging p/u with external lines.Pick up is 1/4 inch off the bottom.

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Man... don't ever let that thing leak or else the US may have to geographically change the map to add a whole new Great Lakes, but this one consisting of oil. Geeeeeee. LOL.
All kidding' aside, that's a confirmed real street car.
 
The deeper the pan the further the 7qts are away from the crank. Besides running 12 qts in the pan weighs more.
Doug
 
That's a beautiful pan ! On clearance, I would never have my p/u touching the floor of the pan - if you would hit the pan it definitely could put a crack at a weak point or - say the p/u tube is plenty strong, the conversation might come back to - block is cracked at the tube insert threads, should I repair it with an insert back to original size or go to 1/2" p/u ? - baffled pan/windage tray and leave some clearance is my 2 cents worth ! Which is getting close to a nickel now apparently
 
So I guess 1/2" off the sump floor is a no no?
I know oil is traveling throughout the block and heads when running/racing, but why would there be no oil at all in the sump over 3/8" while the engine is racing?
 
Needs set up right like every other system, HV pump and small pan with the wrong sump, not draining back into the pan fast enough - could starve the pump @ high rpm or just suck a little air ? Better to be safe and not wipe bearings out and start over - 1/4" - 3/8" is probably fine , I could live with that , deburr your drainback openings and a baffled pan
 
Raised pickup serves 2 purposes; pan crunches in, doesn't crack the pickup at the threads, but more importantly doesn't starve the pump at high rpm. Pickup touching the pan is a nogoodsky
I am not visualizing how an OEM pickup with its scalloped raised lower shape can see any oil flow overall restriction from it touching the pan.
If I had a PU in front of me, I could measure it and do the math for the smallest area of the opening when the PU touches the pan, the open area of the internal screen, and open area of the inlet tube, and see how they compare.
Understanding without testing how a vortex might start in this context is nearly impossible, and we likely need to just assume the OEM design has in some way addressed this concern, albeit in normal driving conditions. The screen itself might be a helpful vortex disruptor. An example that might apply here are wind tunnels often use screen like devices to kill vortices and calm air flow. They need to contribute a small amount of restriction to achieve that effect.
 
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