I also wired in 3 separate 220 volt welder outlets and a separate 220 volt compressor feed. You might also consider wiring in a feed for heat and A/C.
My 12,000 BTU mini split system is 220 volts.I also wired in 3 separate 220 volt welder outlets and a separate 220 volt compressor feed. You might also consider wiring in a feed for heat and A/C.
I'm thinking R38 or 40 in the ceiling just leaves enough space of about 1-1/2" of air space above & between the insulation & radiant roof sheathing to vent out the ridge vents.I think 8stack pretty much answered that question in post #9. No such thing as too much wiring. Looking good.
I'm fiberglass bat fan myself for the reasons stated above. My shop is R19 in the walls and R60 in the ceiling. I'm in Colorado where it get's to 100 degrees in the summer and 10 below in the winter.
The shop stays a nice 70 degrees in the summer with the doors closed. I keep the stats set at 55 in the winter when I'm not working out there and the heat rarely kicks on even on the coldest days.
The vaulted ceilings do present a bit of a twist. Perhaps a layer of bats then blow in on top of that?
Got it....got two (2) 220v outlets high on two walls (side & back) for 2 lifts (hopefully!), one 220v for welder & one 220v for my table saw which i will i'll store in a corner when not using it. Also, added a 230v for a Mr Cool 24K mini-split AC/heat system on the back wall, which i'm going to add later on.I also wired in 3 separate 220 volt welder outlets and a separate 220 volt compressor feed. You might also consider wiring in a feed for heat and A/C.
I;m planning on Hardie Board T1-11 4x9 vertical sheets (white) on the walls & ceiling for more light & a little different look. Gonna try UFO LED round lites (6 of them) on the vaulted ceilings. Ordered those from AmazonYou might consider interior weight white steel for the ceiling finish. It really helps reflect the light.
Mike
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Mike, WISH i had your shop!!!!!!!!!!!You might consider interior weight white steel for the ceiling finish. It really helps reflect the light.
Mike
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I would consult someone in your area. We have plenty of insulation companies in this area, but our climate is substantially different. I went with R-19 bat insulation on my walls covered with a poly vapor barrier and OSB sheeting inside.I'm thinking R38 or 40 in the ceiling just leaves enough space of about 1-1/2" of air space above & between the insulation & radiant roof sheathing to vent out the ridge vents.
I WONDER, should i use a vapor barrier on walls & vaulted ceiling inside, even though the winters are typically very mild & above 30 degrees, BUT summers can be sooooo intensely hot & humid!!!!!
Fans are a great idea to move cool & heated air around. Somehow, i forgot about all that!I keep forgetting what I have done. I also have 4 ceiling fans wired in on two separate controllers. They really move the air around and in my opinion make it fore efficient both heat and cooling wise. My shop is 36 x 42 12 foot walls with a 10 x 12 office. All with textured finished drywall.
With my vaulted ceilings, i'm thinking maybe rotating fans @ the tops of the walls 10' high or so? I'll dig into that a little more.also have 4 ceiling fans wired in on two separate controllers. They really move the air around and in my opinion make it fore efficient both heat and cooling wise
You most likely can put them at the peak. There are so many different drops and width. As long as the blades do not hit the ceiling you should be good. In my shop it makes such a difference that I know right away when one set might be off by accident.With my vaulted ceilings, i'm thinking maybe rotating fans @ the tops of the walls 10' high or so? I'll dig into that a little more.
looks like quite the heating / cooling system you have there!!!!!I did r19 & R38 in mine. I’m happy with it. Still need to finish the walls. I heat it all winter long and I cool it when it’s hot out.
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Wrap the outside with Tyvek. It's better than plastic in that it will breath while still doing the job. I like bat insulation better than foam for the same reasons already mentioned, Wiring , plumbing etc. Here's a short explanation of Tyvek from their website.Thanks! Do you mean, put the batts in, THEN WRAP with the polyethylene sheeting on the inside, stapling to the studs?? Then put the 1/2" Thermax on top of that? I'm planning on using Hardie Board T1-11 vertical panels on walls & vaulted ceiling, instead of drywall to give it a little pizzaz. Hope i'm not making a mistake there.
That's done, thankfully. Probably gonna revert back to my original plan of putting r-19 batts in the 2x6 walls & r-40 between the vaulted ceiling trusses.Wrap the outside with Tyvek.