PCV Delete?
- Thread starter Moparfiend
- Start date
I'm glad you asked.
PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
If you are "locked in" to using that intake, I highly recommend taking it off, drill/tap, & install a hose barb nipple. I believe the little nipple at the base of the carb is too small for a PCV. Yes, you need a PCV. If you want that air grabber hood to actually function (eventually), you'll need need an air grabber air cleaner. As mentioned, it if REALLY tight under an air grabber hood. (intake heights below in motor trend article).
www.motortrend.com
With a 440 (about 1" taller than your 383) I had about 1" extra hood clearance max (fiberglass air grabber box hits the top of the air cleaner with a 1" nitrous plate, so it's MAXED out) - that was with a 3310 Holley 4 bbl. and a stock, cast iron intake manifold. So....if you use a 440 air grabber air cleaner (eventually) on a 383, you will have about 2" clearance to play with MAX.
All of that is to say "plan ahead"
In my opinion, your best intake choices to eventually have a functional air grabber hood are:
stock cast iron
CH4B (?) I think that's the "stock height" aluminum intake - not sure if you can get one for a 383
factory cast iron dual quad (& use a Hemi air grabber air cleaner)
Any aluminum intake that isn't more than 1" taller than stock
Part 1 of Hot Rod's Mopar Intake Manifold Shootout
Take a look at how we made our addicting ebay habit into a compiled list of manifold's and their specs.
With a 440 (about 1" taller than your 383) I had about 1" extra hood clearance max (fiberglass air grabber box hits the top of the air cleaner with a 1" nitrous plate, so it's MAXED out) - that was with a 3310 Holley 4 bbl. and a stock, cast iron intake manifold. So....if you use a 440 air grabber air cleaner (eventually) on a 383, you will have about 2" clearance to play with MAX.
All of that is to say "plan ahead"
In my opinion, your best intake choices to eventually have a functional air grabber hood are:
stock cast iron
CH4B (?) I think that's the "stock height" aluminum intake - not sure if you can get one for a 383
factory cast iron dual quad (& use a Hemi air grabber air cleaner)
Any aluminum intake that isn't more than 1" taller than stock
Quit the nonsense. You have been told what needs to be done. I would of had it done quicker than I can type these responses. The right fix is not a big deal. Less than an hour and your all set.
Hey PB its a 340 LA! I only have this intake because that is how I bought the motor.
Sorry just getting to read this. I don’t need this intake and should sell it and get one thats more appropriate. I only have it as this is how the engine came and was running this previously. Now that I am working towards getting the AG hood its an issue. Its a car for fun around town. Not cross country or for work.
I don’t think I want to drill out the M1. I think a better approach would be a shorter manifold and one thats duel plane and has the vacuum ports set up for street. So not nonsense to me as I am working through the problem here on the forum with experienced folks willing to teach and help.
70bigblockdodge
Well-Known Member
Well there is the problem, delete the booster and you will have a port back. Power brakes are for your wife's car and Imperials.
All seriousness I would grease the end of a drill bit and tap the intake. The grease will catch the shavings as you go. Drill a little, wipe. Drill a little, wipe. Till it goes through. Grease the tap and same same.
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
--------------this --------------^^^
PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
Gotcha....that gives you 1" (about) more clearance.
440 PHIXX
The Island of Misfit Mopars
My ‘59 International Harvester A120
4x4 panel truck just had a pipe going towards the pavement. A draft tube I think they called it. My Tecumseh 5HP mini bike had one too.
4x4 panel truck just had a pipe going towards the pavement. A draft tube I think they called it. My Tecumseh 5HP mini bike had one too.
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You can drill and tap the holley if it
has a double wall on the vacuum
port on the primary side. Don't run
the tap all the way thru, but just
enough to seat the nipple fitting.
There may an existing boss in the
carb base casting (which from your
first pic shows it's there.) Very easy,
and you won't have to drill and tap
the intake. Done this on my current
setup, and enough vacuum for pcv
and brakes.
BORROWED IMAGE FROM ANOTHER
SITE....NOT MINE
has a double wall on the vacuum
port on the primary side. Don't run
the tap all the way thru, but just
enough to seat the nipple fitting.
There may an existing boss in the
carb base casting (which from your
first pic shows it's there.) Very easy,
and you won't have to drill and tap
the intake. Done this on my current
setup, and enough vacuum for pcv
and brakes.
BORROWED IMAGE FROM ANOTHER
SITE....NOT MINE
Last edited:
Ooh this is an interesting idea! Let me look more closely at the carb! I think what you saying is that the primary (front of the carb) side is a double wall with a boss that I can drill out and would provide full manifold vacuum! This might be worth a try!
NO dice not enough meat…
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Worth the investigation. Your
base plate doesn't have the double
wall.
base plate doesn't have the double
wall.
10 Minutes with a drill and a tap and you would be done. Easy Peasy.
What the carb?
No I am not using the stock air cleaner I am using this drop base if I can. I may use another intake but from my research the M1 (measures about 5.25”) and that is what the Eddy’s air gap and such “says” it is as well. So it might not buy me much. I wonder what the stock cast iron one comes in at. In this heat I would rather aluminum. When I get some help I will test fit the hood to see where I am at before I buy anything….
No the intake.
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