Post your 10 second combo's

[Mike Gaines]

well you know the faster you go the more exponentially it costs as well wear and tear plus maintenance goes way up .
I finally have my short motor together . 1 round left in track championship and o/seas holiday then motor out in December , service and reuse current heads and sump . I am aiming for 10.50's somewhere . Like you I am a bracket racer so I will leave some HP on the table to maintain reliability , plus I daily drive it around 6-8000mls a year .

Tex

Tex...the problem with a 10.50 car is that you will then want to get into the 10.40's...it is a sickness among us that is never ending...LOL
Such as this: I now have a car that will run10.60's anytime of the year, good air or bad air, as it will now run 10.50 in good air....but....immediately after running the 10.512 on my last outing of the year (about 2 weeks ago) I am now plotting how to get in down in the 10.20 range. I know I can get it into the 10.20's time slip if I only had the $1000 saved up to send my heads back to INDY or HUGHES and have my standard port INDY heads ported out to MAX wedge size and then CNC ported to flow from the out of the box 290cfm(which they are now) to 350cfm. It is a fact that this alone will take my 10.512 time slip down to at least a 10.290....like I said...a true sickness among our ranks which most of us are inflicted with.....again, LOL

 

[Tex013]

I just checked with the Hughes Engines web site and see that the Edelbrock RPM heads can be CNC ported FROM 275cfm, which is out of the box (@600 lift) TO 328cfm (@600 lift).

That work cost about $775 plus about $125 UPS Each way from Cal to Illinois and back...total $250 for both heads out and back.

The Edelbrock MAX WEDGE HEADS (which are the ones that you do NOT have) can be CNC ported TO about 380cfm (@600 lift). They flow 310cfm (@600) out of the box.

INDY SEZ standard port heads (which are the ones that I have) flow 290cfm out of the box.

Mike ,
you can also look at the Trick Flow heads , there is a max wedge version out at the end of this year apparently . Andy F has the standard port going around 800HP , with15?:1 comp and near .800 lift roller . Standard port size is 240cc, max wedge is 270cc . I believe there is no offset rocker required on the max wedge head .

Tex

 

[Tex013]

Tex...the problem with a 10.50 car is that you will then want to get into the 10.40's...it is a sickness among us that is never ending...LOL
Such as this: I now have a car that will run10.60's anytime of the year, good air or bad air, as it will now run 10.50 in good air....but....immediately after running the 10.512 on my last outing of the year (about 2 weeks ago) I am now plotting how to get in down in the 10.20 range. I know I can get it into the 10.20's time slip if I only had the $1000 saved up to send my heads back to INDY or HUGHES and have my standard port INDY heads ported out to MAX wedge size and then CNC ported to flow from the out of the box 290cfm(which they are now) to 350cfm. It is a fact that this alone will take my 10.512 time slip down to at least a 10.290....like I said...a true sickness among our ranks which most of us are inflicted with.....again, LOL

you know Mike its a funny thing racing . I was never that wound up about running a 10 second pass , car was not legal and class only went 11.00 minimum. Then the Plymouth went 10.99 unexpectedly , then a bit more tweaking and it is where it is . Now with the new motor it is the same price to go 505 as 440 so I have gone there . But the car is now legal to 10.00 and the class has been lowered to 10.00 so mid 10's is looking good . Any faster is a full cage etc so no thanks . I like the et/speed but that is not the be all and end all for me . Though bragging rights are good . Reliability and consistency are more important to me

Tex

 

[Canyon707]

well you know the faster you go the more exponentially it costs as well wear and tear plus maintenance goes way up .
I finally have my short motor together . 1 round left in track championship and o/seas holiday then motor out in December , service and reuse current heads and sump . I am aiming for 10.50's somewhere . Like you I am a bracket racer so I will leave some HP on the table to maintain reliability , plus I daily drive it around 6-8000mls a year .

Tex

Well your right about that but, my goal is to slow it down to 10.0 and not work it to hard just enough to keep it above 10.0

 

[Canyon707]

well you know the faster you go the more exponentially it costs as well wear and tear plus maintenance goes way up .
I finally have my short motor together . 1 round left in track championship and o/seas holiday then motor out in December , service and reuse current heads and sump . I am aiming for 10.50's somewhere . Like you I am a bracket racer so I will leave some HP on the table to maintain reliability , plus I daily drive it around 6-8000mls a year .

Tex

10.50 is very respectable. I rarely see it.

 

[Tex013]

Well your right about that but, my goal is to slow it down to 10.0 and not work it to hard just enough to keep it above 10.0

I hate running it hard ! I shift at 6000 trap 63/6400
heck I might go a 29.5" tyre with the new motor to keep it down

Tex

 

[not so famous bob]

I hate running it hard ! I shift at 6000 trap 63/6400
heck I might go a 29.5" tyre with the new motor to keep it down

Tex

Tell us your combination TEX .

 

[Cranky]

And getting rid of weight also helps lower ET's but I think we all know that. Mild engines seem to last longer so I generally try and build that way and put my effort into the body....

 

[Canyon707]

light weight is a great way to pick up et but, there is no better way to lower et than with more power. I don't know ho to get much lighter @ 2950 lbs without me now maybe I could get a few more with front and rear lexan but, not sure if it will make much difference. The issue is now I still need a motor so why not kick it up a notch.

 

[Cranky]

I was more or less directing my comment towards Tex013. His car tips the scale at 3660 according to his sig. Also, a car that's too light will be more affected by cross winds etc whereas a heavier car can deal with it better and not be blown out of the groove as easy as a light car. Aero cars also deal with cross winds better than a flying box too....which mine is pretty much shaped like a box.

 

[Budnicks]

Really to slow your car down to run 10.0's
everywhere in most all conditions,
you need @ min. a 9.50 combo & back it down, to run the #'s
{or 10.50's consistently everywhere you need a 10.0/9.90 combo}
that way you have a buffer for wind, altitude, weather changes
& track conditions, or dumping someone in the light,
especially with all the numerous electronic
"remote control" {sorry} driver aides/gadgetry
seemingly all bracket racers, now all have or need to run today...

Like most all the Super Comp cars that can run 7.50's/7.90's
when not competing in S/C,
same stuff/theory just different faster bracket...

Ok back to the topic at hand...

 

[Tex013]

I was more or less directing my comment towards Tex013. His car tips the scale at 3660 according to his sig. Also, a car that's too light will be more affected by cross winds etc whereas a heavier car can deal with it better and not be blown out of the groove as easy as a light car. Aero cars also deal with cross winds better than a flying box too....which mine is pretty much shaped like a box.

Cranky ,
I agree , that weight is with me in it . But I am not seeing a lot of easy weight loss , car is my daily . I do like my heater and front bench seat . I do have fiberglass bonnet and front bar all the usual aluminium engine stuff . I do have a roll bar and no rear seat . I could go split monos over the xhd springs but not sure how they will hang in there for daily use plus driving to track with race wheels / jack etc in boot .
Oh and Budnicks - yes I agree with you .

Tex

 

[Cranky]

Cranky ,
I agree , that weight is with me in it . But I am not seeing a lot of easy weight loss , car is my daily . I do like my heater and front bench seat . I do have fiberglass bonnet and front bar all the usual aluminium engine stuff . I do have a roll bar and no rear seat . I could go split monos over the xhd springs but not sure how they will hang in there for daily use plus driving to track with race wheels / jack etc in boot .
Oh and Budnicks - yes I agree with you .

Tex

I took 420 lbs out of mine and still had the AC and Heater in it It was 3370 without me when I got it. My first 66 Belvedere was a more door with AC and P/S and was 3750 with a pair of slicks on steel wheels in the trunk. It's funny how these cars can vary in weight so much for the same model year....but I never did anything to lighten it.

 

[dvw]

Really to slow your car down to run 10.0's
everywhere in most all conditions,
you need @ min. a 9.50 combo & back it down, to run the #'s
{or 10.50's consistently everywhere you need a 10.0/9.90 combo}
that way you have a buffer for wind, altitude, weather changes
& track conditions, or dumping someone in the light,
especially with all the numerous electronic
"remote control" {sorry} driver aides/gadgetry
seemingly all bracket racers, now all have or need to run today...

Like most all the Super Comp cars that can run 7.50's/7.90's
when not competing in S/C,
same stuff/theory just different faster bracket...

Ok back to the topic at hand... [/QU
In my experience you don't need much cushion. In most conditions mine runs 9.1X. I run it on a 9.25 index w/o issue. My last car normally ran high 10.3x. It always ran 10.50 index.
Doug

 

[Canyon707]

I am just having a difficult time trying to determine what to purchase. I spoke to ohio crank and eagle crank regarding buying a motor with these cranks in them and I was told that they could ealily run 800 passes. I just need to get something going and going in the right direction. I know new is always the best way but, having difficulty deciding. I am just looking for a mid to low 10 second motor. Dependability is paramount. Just have yet to find it. Milke Gaines has given me a lot of good input on some ideas. I bracket the car. I was looking at an 800 hp motor but I would need to change the cam in it to bring it into that range.

 

[Cranky]

I assume you've done the calculations for how much power you need with your weight to go low 10's....?

 

[dvw]

800+ takes a pretty healthy cam. That requires healthy springs. That requires good valve train parts. Springs and tappets will require maintenence.
Doug

 

[Canyon707]

my existing motor 550 hp @6k took me to 10.56 so I am thinking another 50 hp should do the trick.

 

[Wookie316]

It takes me 740 HP to run 10:60's with my 4100 pound tank. I have a few things to sort out yet as from what I've been told 128 MPH should be 10.40's just getting the motor plate and vac pump all set up. Should have photos soon. Also did a 7AL3 box as well.

 

[Canyon707]

It takes me 740 HP to run 10:60's with my 4100 pound tank. I have a few things to sort out yet as from what I've been told 128 MPH should be 10.40's just getting the motor plate and vac pump all set up. Should have photos soon. Also did a 7AL3 box as well.

Looking forward to some pictures and whatever else your doing.