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Pro Flo 4. Edelbrock

Da
That is correct. There isn't room for a tool box let alone an extra carb!
Darius, just keep carrying those screw drivers to loan me. If you don't know, they prevent engine fires in Reno.
 
Well hopefully the pro flo 4 is better than the pro flo 3 that I paid more than double the price for. I have installed plenty of efi systems both port and throttle body and even systems I have made from scratch. And I can't get this one to run right. It has a never ending high low surge on warm/ hot restarts when in open loop. The pf3 system is far less tunable than the fitech system. Ihave to say, I'm disappointed in the system and considering removing it
 
Open loop means the feedback from the 02 and temp sensors is ignored and the system is operating from a default program or look up table.
 
Rookie question here.
Why would you ignore the sensors inputs?
 
It depends on the system. Some will go open loop during a fault like a check engine code. Some systems are open loop at each start up for seconds to minutes. Disclaimer I really am not familiar with the aftermarket efi systems. I became familiar with the efi for old mopar 2.2l turbo cars.
 
The edelbrock system stays in open loop until it reaches 172 degrees and stays in open loop at each start for a set period of time
 
Is there a 49 state pro Flo and a carb approved version?
I know the difference between the California 2.2l efi and other states was the open loop timing. The California cars had a 60 seconds max open loop while the others could be several minutes.
 
These efi kits don’t need to comply with any rules.
 
Since since we live in California, 1975 on down is smog exempt, so we are in the clear.
 
I'm here to learn. Also joined a thread on forums.edelbrock. The tank and doggy door are on the way and paid for, but the PF4 is backordered. Still have time to change but don't plan to.
If open loop is in play till the coolant reached 172, why would there be an idle surge on hot restarts.
 
All the efi’s are open loop till the water temp reaches a pre-set temp. For the Terminator it’s 160.
 
Still don't understand open loop. All the guys who have been trying to sell me on efi for years bragged about turning the key and driving off. No pumping or waiting.
 
The 02 sensor has to be warmed by exhaust for a certain time to determine afr. Coolant may have heat soaked and is not accurate. The efi needs some open loop time before making pulse width adjustments.
 
There is no waiting. Get in, turn key, lay down rubber. Even new cars do not go into closed loop till they reach a pre-set temperature.
 
Yes on #76&77. O2 sensor has to warm up before it puts out correct voltage for the ‘puter to read it. I’m guessing too rich for ur real question on loping.
 
Rookie question here.
Why would you ignore the sensors inputs?

Ahhhh, I get it. The computer runs on a predetermined setting until the sensors warm up to properly give feed back to the computer so it can run the engine at its best.

Being that the computer has to have a base to run on, this is done in the beginning set up with the set up wizard. So the issues experienced with rich and surge are more due to the computer not getting the correct info in or the ability to get the proper output to the engine.

So I’m going to guess that the computer has a limited set of set up perameters?

Again, having near zero or less expert with this, wouldn’t an easy way to get it set up be plugging in the cam timing, distributor setting, initial set point along with the engines C.I.D.?
 
All that is pre loaded into the ecu to get you up and running, hence the self learning feature. Now for the ultimate in fine tuning, you take the base map and then adjust for cuin, cam, and so on. You can have the ecu control timing on some units and with that you’ll need to set up a dual sync distributor so it has a reference.

That’s just the basics, very basic, but there is a **** ton more to it to completely dial in the tune for a “specific” engine.
 
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