I wouldn't hesitate to use a longer clutch if I had the room
Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger
- Thread starter Kern Dog
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Not sure if you saw it. I did flip the 4 rods around that were backwards. There is a chamfered side and flat side to these rods.
Here is a weird thing though. The bearing shells are offset:
Now when I flipped the bearings top to bottom:
Still offset. Strange… I didn’t notice that before.
Here is a weird thing though. The bearing shells are offset:
Now when I flipped the bearings top to bottom:
Still offset. Strange… I didn’t notice that before.
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Another bearing set gives the same result.
I’m paying closer attention to things this time. Maybe the shells had this offset before and I didn’t notice. I’ve never had an oil pressure problem or irregular wear on the bearings.
I’m paying closer attention to things this time. Maybe the shells had this offset before and I didn’t notice. I’ve never had an oil pressure problem or irregular wear on the bearings.
Tang grooves on the cap and rod face each other. Some rod bearings are made with the tangs offset differently. They will be marked U & L. The bearing shells may not align top to bottom. As long as the bearing doesn’t overhang into the chamfer of the rod you’re ok. The chamfered side of the rods face away from each other towards the crank fillet. With a Mopar wedge V8 the large valve notches in the pistons face each other on 1/3, 5/7. 2/4. 6/8
Doug
Doug
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4406bbl
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Manley had an issue back in the 2000s with tang grooves being wrong. They clearance saled some rods that had 2 sets of bearing tangs, one side marked with blue dykem, and some were still wrong. As long as the bearing does not overhang you are fine, but I made the tang wider with a dremel disc, because it would have bothered me. I also marked the rod and cap so in the future someone does not get it wrong, as in put the cap on backwards. Anyway more fun.
Wietse
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Put an old set of bearing you have and see how they sit, just for a comparison.
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Did you maybe make a mistake here?
The intake valve notches in the pistons look to me like the following:
Cylinders 1 and 5 face the rear, 3 and 7 face the front. #s 2 and 6 face rearward, 4 and 8 face forward.
Are we saying the same thing but using different words?
Wietse
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Looks like.
Just follow the intake/exhaust layout of the head, the large valve relief goes on intake.
2 4 6 8
Ex/In In/Ex Ex/In In/Ex
o/O O/o o/O O/o
o/O O/o o/O O/o
Ex/In In/Ex Ex/In In/Ex
1 3 5 7
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Thank you. That is how I have it figured as well.
The freeze plugs and gallery plugs are in. I knocked all the freeze plugs in but one went in too far. I damaged it on removal so I had to scrounge up a steel one from the stash.
I washed the block with soap and water and used compressed air to dry it off. I ran bottle brushes through the oil galleries twice.
Full groove main bearings....The crank is in.
Oil clearance was .003 at #1 journal and .002 at the rest. This matches specs I wrote down in 2004 when I built this motor the first time. The crank is still standard, it has not been ground undersize.
I ran out of Plastigage. I'll have to get some tomorrow so I can install the pistons and check clearances there.
The freeze plugs and gallery plugs are in. I knocked all the freeze plugs in but one went in too far. I damaged it on removal so I had to scrounge up a steel one from the stash.
I washed the block with soap and water and used compressed air to dry it off. I ran bottle brushes through the oil galleries twice.
Full groove main bearings....The crank is in.
Oil clearance was .003 at #1 journal and .002 at the rest. This matches specs I wrote down in 2004 when I built this motor the first time. The crank is still standard, it has not been ground undersize.
I ran out of Plastigage. I'll have to get some tomorrow so I can install the pistons and check clearances there.
Wietse
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Looking good.
Just a thing to consider, something I did not think of when I had the engine out but wish I did.
Drill and tap that dipstick hole and get a threaded (1/8" or 1/4"??) dipstick tube.
That will save you some fighting with installation of press fit dipstick tube and easy to remove for future mods and repairs in case it is in the way.
Just a thing to consider, something I did not think of when I had the engine out but wish I did.
Drill and tap that dipstick hole and get a threaded (1/8" or 1/4"??) dipstick tube.
That will save you some fighting with installation of press fit dipstick tube and easy to remove for future mods and repairs in case it is in the way.
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The dipstick tube I have was shaped to clear the headers and power steering box. It has a loop to a bolt on the motor mount. It works for me.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
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haven't read every post..... are you going flat tappet again?
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I apologize....I wrote that my bearings here have no markings (That is true) BUT looking at my notes from 2011 when I last had this engine out, the old bearings from the 2004 build DID have bearings marked for upper and lower. I forgot about that.
I am going to test fit these bearings into stock rods to see if they have an offset in them too. I doubt that they do.
I should have saved the old bearings when I tore the engine down. It would have answered this question.
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I have a Lunati solid flat tappet that I ran awhile in 2014. I pulled it because it made low idle vacuum, requiring a vacuum pump for the power brakes. It also shook a bit more than I liked when idling in gear at stoplights.
Now with a manual transmission and hydroboost brakes, those issues don't apply. The car was faster than ever with this cam. I saved the lifters in order so there will be no break in. EDM solids can last if the right oil is used. THAT is a hard earned lesson and it is the entire reason for this whole project.
Geoff 2
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Kern,
[1] Go back to post #385. Look at the top pic. Notice the larger chamfer in the rod that finishes near the brg shell. Now look at the lower pic, other side of the rod, in the same area. Hardly any chamfer. The side of the rod [ chamfered ] in the top pic goes towards the crank cheek. Moooooooooooost important. If you have already installed the pistons, you might have to reverse them to get this right.
[2] These brg shells do not have an upper or lower.
[3] You need to check this carefully. With the cap separated from the rod, sit the brg shell in place on the rod. Make sure the tang on the shell fits into the indentation on the rod. I have found that on aftermarket rods, sometimes the indentation is not as wide as factory rods. The tang does not go all the way in & the shell is not fully seated. Result will be rapid wear of the brg shells at the parting line. Repeat for the cap. The fix is to use a Dremel or jewellers file to narrow the tangs on the brg shells.
[1] Go back to post #385. Look at the top pic. Notice the larger chamfer in the rod that finishes near the brg shell. Now look at the lower pic, other side of the rod, in the same area. Hardly any chamfer. The side of the rod [ chamfered ] in the top pic goes towards the crank cheek. Moooooooooooost important. If you have already installed the pistons, you might have to reverse them to get this right.
[2] These brg shells do not have an upper or lower.
[3] You need to check this carefully. With the cap separated from the rod, sit the brg shell in place on the rod. Make sure the tang on the shell fits into the indentation on the rod. I have found that on aftermarket rods, sometimes the indentation is not as wide as factory rods. The tang does not go all the way in & the shell is not fully seated. Result will be rapid wear of the brg shells at the parting line. Repeat for the cap. The fix is to use a Dremel or jewellers file to narrow the tangs on the brg shells.
cdr
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I think you need the narrow bearings for the stroker crank you have
NoCar2023
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I might be misunderstanding you. The rods and caps do have a flat side and a chamfered side. It isn't as if the rods are are that way and the caps are not.
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This part makes sense:
"Clevite's "performance" series of bearings (H,V, and M) will come with either a "chamfer" (45 degree cut or bevel) on the outer edge, or they will be of a "narrowed" design where the entire outside edge of the bearing is narrowed (the overall width of the bearing is made not as wide) to avoid hitting the crank radius. Clevite's "P" series, (stock replacement style) will not come with this extra radius clearance, and if you use these bearings on an aftermarket crank, you will need to machine the bearing yourself for this purpose. This is a fairly easy operation which usually involves clamping the bearing in an old rod and using a large drill press or milling machine to cut the needed chamfer in the outside of the bearing"
These are the bearings that I have:
The letter "P" in the bearing must mean these are the stock replacement bearings.
"Clevite's "performance" series of bearings (H,V, and M) will come with either a "chamfer" (45 degree cut or bevel) on the outer edge, or they will be of a "narrowed" design where the entire outside edge of the bearing is narrowed (the overall width of the bearing is made not as wide) to avoid hitting the crank radius. Clevite's "P" series, (stock replacement style) will not come with this extra radius clearance, and if you use these bearings on an aftermarket crank, you will need to machine the bearing yourself for this purpose. This is a fairly easy operation which usually involves clamping the bearing in an old rod and using a large drill press or milling machine to cut the needed chamfer in the outside of the bearing"
These are the bearings that I have:
The letter "P" in the bearing must mean these are the stock replacement bearings.
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