1 Wild R/T
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well, the next step...
Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger
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I know next to nothing about hydraulic lines, fittings, the sizes of them and the terminology. This is all new to me.
Grabbergreendream
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Greg, if you know what vehicle the HB unit was designed for, can you buy the hoses for that vehicle to fit the HB unit and have a hydraulic shop cut the other ends off and put the ends you need for the pump on them?
I make hydraulic hoses in-house in our maintenance department and we use the standard -6 JIC fittings like the ones shown as options as well as the adaptors and I dont think the JIC is correct for those HB fittings. I've never seen that style before but I think it will take a reverse flare inside the female end. We have those females but again, never seen a male end. I'll grab a few pics in a bit i just got to work, so it'll make sense. They are different and not interchangeable. Give me a bit to show you.
I make hydraulic hoses in-house in our maintenance department and we use the standard -6 JIC fittings like the ones shown as options as well as the adaptors and I dont think the JIC is correct for those HB fittings. I've never seen that style before but I think it will take a reverse flare inside the female end. We have those females but again, never seen a male end. I'll grab a few pics in a bit i just got to work, so it'll make sense. They are different and not interchangeable. Give me a bit to show you.
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I’d say you’re good with banjo fittings, a lot of cars use them for the brakes.
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Grabbergreendream
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Heres a view of the fittings. The silver ones are male & female 3/8" JIC(first pic).
The next pics of the gold fitting is a large -12 female to show the inside flare. I think you need these in a 3/8" -6 but they aren't a JIC. Not 100% sure. The application we use those in are into main high pressure hydraulic pumps.
Good luck
The next pics of the gold fitting is a large -12 female to show the inside flare. I think you need these in a 3/8" -6 but they aren't a JIC. Not 100% sure. The application we use those in are into main high pressure hydraulic pumps.
Good luck
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The pump is a standard rebuild for a mid 70s 440.
I changed the reservoir to have two return ports.
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I am going to steer the topic of the Hydroboost and brakes to this thread:
Installing Hydroboost and bigger brakes in a 1970 Charger
I'll post a condensed version in this thread once I am done with the brakes.
Installing Hydroboost and bigger brakes in a 1970 Charger
I'll post a condensed version in this thread once I am done with the brakes.
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Yes, Mark.....The HB has these fittings.
I need to find banjo fittings that have the metric threads on the Banjo bolt but standard -6 threads on the other end.
I am almost done with the HB lines. I had them crimped today but the man took the fittings off to cut the hoses to length and we put the fittings on the wrong hoses. There are two lengths and I/we got it wrong. I can shorten one and just add a new finning but the other will need two fittings and a longer hose.
The A/C compressor is bolted up. The engine bay wiring is all connected.
Damn...I was really hoping to have those hydraulic lines in and done. Ah well, I should have them done tomorrow.
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Measuring and fitting the Hydroboost lines halted progress elsewhere on the project but now....the lines have been crimped, REcrimped and installed. I did buy the banjo fittings to allow the lines to sit closer to the HB unit. Note the difference:
I moved on to the power steering pump and had a hell of a time with that. I tried using a 5 inch pulley with the thought that the smaller pulley would provide more volume due to it spinning faster than the 6" pulley I was using. The 5" pulley had more offset so it wouldn't line up with the proper groove on the crank pulley. In the end, I swapped in a solid 5 7/8" pulley.
The clutch and flywheel cover is on....
Chassis parts are greased.
I moved on to the power steering pump and had a hell of a time with that. I tried using a 5 inch pulley with the thought that the smaller pulley would provide more volume due to it spinning faster than the 6" pulley I was using. The 5" pulley had more offset so it wouldn't line up with the proper groove on the crank pulley. In the end, I swapped in a solid 5 7/8" pulley.
The clutch and flywheel cover is on....
Chassis parts are greased.
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Looks great 
Great work! Those banjo fittings are really nice. Must be close to fire up time.
ckessel
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Now that its assembled, I would be curious to see if the heat from the header is going to bother the accumulator on the HB. It looks like there is clearance if it were relocated to the opposite corner and not interfere with any hydraulic clutch master cylinder. Maybe something to watch for in later updates from you and the Doc.
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It was the billet style with the two O rings on each side.
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I'm getting close to the "First Fire".
It sure takes longer when so many things aren't stock anymore. The fuel system features a regulator and a return line. That takes more work than a simple pump and two lines. The Hydroboost was more complicated than a simple manual master cylinder.
The battery was at 12.3 volts so I put the trickle charger on it. I pumped the old gas out awhile back so I'll need some fresh fuel. There are just a few more small details before I can start it.
Having a used cam in there alleviates most of the anxiety that I have when starting up a rebuilt engine for the first time. No break in will be needed. I expect to chase a leak or two but sometimes I get lucky and none appear.
Maybe Sunday?
It sure takes longer when so many things aren't stock anymore. The fuel system features a regulator and a return line. That takes more work than a simple pump and two lines. The Hydroboost was more complicated than a simple manual master cylinder.
The battery was at 12.3 volts so I put the trickle charger on it. I pumped the old gas out awhile back so I'll need some fresh fuel. There are just a few more small details before I can start it.
Having a used cam in there alleviates most of the anxiety that I have when starting up a rebuilt engine for the first time. No break in will be needed. I expect to chase a leak or two but sometimes I get lucky and none appear.
Maybe Sunday?
ckessel
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Good luck to you Greg.
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I pulled the master cylinder to bench bleed it. When I first installed it to the hydroboost unit, I did so to have it in place to form the brake lines. I knew it would have to come back out to bench bleed.
Make note of the following:
Stainless steel, pan head screws S U C K in this application.
These are what Dr Diff included in the kit to attach the master cylinder to the Hydroboost unit. They look great but the smooth finish makes them hard to thread by hand. I put anti-seize on the threads even though the HB is iron. The access to install these is crowded with the brake lines and hydraulic lines in place so a standard 6 point hex fastener is a better idea. You can grip them and thread them in much easier.
Make note of the following:
Stainless steel, pan head screws S U C K in this application.
These are what Dr Diff included in the kit to attach the master cylinder to the Hydroboost unit. They look great but the smooth finish makes them hard to thread by hand. I put anti-seize on the threads even though the HB is iron. The access to install these is crowded with the brake lines and hydraulic lines in place so a standard 6 point hex fastener is a better idea. You can grip them and thread them in much easier.
padam
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Those are actually called button head screws. I also threw away the ones I got from dr diff. They are most likely soft 18-8 chineseum junk.
Another reason I hate button heads is the the socket is so shallow that it rounds out easily (especially in stainless.)
Industrial machinery use them now all over, mostly for non critical stuff like guards and covers. Just a pain in the ***. I replace with socket heads when I can.
Guy on you tube did a test on hex drivers, used button head screws. So stupid.
Another reason I hate button heads is the the socket is so shallow that it rounds out easily (especially in stainless.)
Industrial machinery use them now all over, mostly for non critical stuff like guards and covers. Just a pain in the ***. I replace with socket heads when I can.
Guy on you tube did a test on hex drivers, used button head screws. So stupid.
ckessel
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Good spot for a small head 12 or 6pt bolt.
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