Restomod charger pics

[747mopar]

Dev, I really hope you don't have to wait for spring to do things but, it may give you some ideas that would be helpful in the drive train part of all this, i would be anxious myself and have been,,, Time will tell i guess but i was told its supposed to be half way decent thru Dec, i hope there right and a good test on the Charger will work for you!!!

I'm sure there will be an opportunity in the near future ....I hope! The good news is I know it all works and just needs some tweaking and on top of that it looks as if my days at the sawmill are almost over which means less hours. I've been wanting to get out of there for a while now, long hours, crappy insurance, earrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrly mornings, working in the freezing temps, etc so the new job is for a much bigger organization with excellent benefits, 40 hr weeks, big bonus, more vacation and 3rd shift which I love so I should have more time to play. Starting at the beginning of the year.

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I'm at least glad to hear you had the chance to get it out and find those problems. Give yourself some time to troubleshoot, Hopefully you get at least another chance to get it out but worse case scenario at least you'll be completely ready come Spring! I was working further North from where I live Yesterday morning outside for 4 hours in -31 C ( -24F) it was a rude awakening as we've only gotten to about -10 C where I live so far this year... A reminder of what's to come I guess

Man do I feel for you, I'm not ready for nothing that cold yet. Last year we got some -19 degree days and that was just brutal, my days at work started off with heating up bearings with the torches just to get the mill going erhhhhhh.

 

[HYRDGOON]

I'm sure there will be an opportunity in the near future ....I hope! The good news is I know it all works and just needs some tweaking and on top of that it looks as if my days at the sawmill are almost over which means less hours. I've been wanting to get out of there for a while now, long hours, crappy insurance, earrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrly mornings, working in the freezing temps, etc so the new job is for a much bigger organization with excellent benefits, 40 hr weeks, big bonus, more vacation and 3rd shift which I love so I should have more time to play. Starting at the beginning of the year.

That's great news on the job front Dev, Congrats! Sounds like you'll be in a much better position and happier which is what really counts! I'm sure you'll get another small window to make sure the car is working right!

Cheers!

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Man do I feel for you, I'm not ready for nothing that cold yet. Last year we got some -19 degree days and that was just brutal, my days at work started off with heating up bearings with the torches just to get the mill going erhhhhhh.

It's weird how it works for me, most of my work is inside but it seems that all the outside work which could easily be done in the spring/summer/fall happens in the middle of winter in the coldest parts of the province. I grew up in smaller town North so I'm used to cold winters but being subjected to it only every now and then has definitely made me more of a pussy! haha I also just got some good news yesterday that 2 large jobs are ready both will fill the schedule for 6 months of 2015 along with already being busy so hopefully an opportunity to play catch-up with all the money spent on the RR.

 

[747mopar]

I know what you mean, I do maintenance work meaning all of the repairs, fabricating, etc and as you can imagine anything that is going to break breaks when it's freezing cold outside. Just part of job but on a plus the new job is indoors.

 

[747mopar]

Amazing work man! Great car !!!

Wow, Russia! Don't think I've seen anybody from Russia on here, what's the Mopar hobby like over there? Thanks

 

[747mopar]

Went to the garage tonight to start resolving some issues and uncovered another "go figure". I got the bogging fixed pretty quickly, it was the accelerater pump. Long story short the previous owner made some goofy mods to the accelerater pump adjuster bolt spring that rendered it useless so I just found a replacement spring and got the float level and idle screws adjusted. With that taken care of I TRIED to install the shaker base which is were I found the new problem.....it no longer fit? After a little thinking I remembered how crappy the exhaust fit under the car when I reinstalled it and kept thinking "dammit I know I made that fit tighter than that". Then the light bulb lit up "BOLT IN TRANNY KIT MY ***" they dropped the tail of the tranny to get it to fit and now my shaker base no longer clears the wiper motor nor will the hood close over the scoop. Fortunately I cut out more than was needed and was able to push it up in there another 1/2" by making a 1/2" spacer to go under the tranny mount. I don't think it's still where it was but it's really close and it can't go any higher without cutting the cross member. Couldn't get anymore out of the pedal either, tried bleeding it in both places and no air at all but yet I still have 2" of nothing at the top of the stroke.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Went to the garage tonight to start resolving some issues and uncovered another "go figure". I got the bogging fixed pretty quickly, it was the accelerater pump. Long story short the previous owner made some goofy mods to the accelerater pump adjuster bolt spring that rendered it useless so I just found a replacement spring and got the float level and idle screws adjusted. With that taken care of I TRIED to install the shaker base which is were I found the new problem.....it no longer fit? After a little thinking I remembered how crappy the exhaust fit under the car when I reinstalled it and kept thinking "dammit I know I made that fit tighter than that". Then the light bulb lit up "BOLT IN TRANNY KIT MY ***" they dropped the tail of the tranny to get it to fit and now my shaker base no longer clears the wiper motor nor will the hood close over the scoop. Fortunately I cut out more than was needed and was able to push it up in there another 1/2" by making a 1/2" spacer to go under the tranny mount. I don't think it's still where it was but it's really close and it can't go any higher without cutting the cross member. Couldn't get anymore out of the pedal either, tried bleeding it in both places and no air at all but yet I still have 2" of nothing at the top of the stroke.

Could the empty 2" at top of the stroke just be some geometry changes with the linkage?

 

[747mopar]

Nope, if I work it by hand I can watch the pushrod move the second you start pushing it, if I put my head under the car while working the pedal by hand I can see the throw out bearing and it doesn't move until I get past that point.

 

[Wookie316]

Hydraulic release bearings can be a pain in the ***.
What fluid did you use? Wilwood 600 extreme? McLeod told me to do that and they also told me to heat wrap the supply line to help prevent fluid boil.
I was getting an issue where after the car warmed up I lost all my free travel and clutch released/engaged right at the top of travel and I ended up smoking my clutch pretty bad.
Sounds like air still in the system. I know it sounds crazy but I ended up having to put some preload on the master cylinder clutch rod to get it to work properly.
I spent hours messing with that thing. I think if I was ever to do again I'd use a standard bearing with a fork and a slave opposed to a internal hydraulic release bearing.
Good luck man. If you have issues like me you will pull your hair out.

 

[747mopar]

Got some more seat time in today and still needs some tweaking. The carb is still an issue although it's better, it really struggles right off idle (not accelerating just barely giving it gas). I've got the floats set on the low side right now for a leaner mixture so bumping it up will be my first step then richening the air screws, if that doesn't clean it up I might need to try an air bleed kit. pushing the tranny up has it contacting the car just a bit so now there's some unwanted noise and the shifting really sucks. I'm really disappointed in Keislers definition of "bolt in", I'm sorry but drastically changing the motor and trans angle isn't exactly a good idea considering the affects (improper driveshaft angle, fan to shroud clearances, in my case shaker hood scoops, exhaust angles, etc). Obviously this setup has worked for many but it just erks me that they call it bolt in instead of "bolt in that may require many changes elsewhere". More work to be done.

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Hydraulic release bearings can be a pain in the ***.
What fluid did you use? Wilwood 600 extreme? McLeod told me to do that and they also told me to heat wrap the supply line to help prevent fluid boil.
I was getting an issue where after the car warmed up I lost all my free travel and clutch released/engaged right at the top of travel and I ended up smoking my clutch pretty bad.
Sounds like air still in the system. I know it sounds crazy but I ended up having to put some preload on the master cylinder clutch rod to get it to work properly.
I spent hours messing with that thing. I think if I was ever to do again I'd use a standard bearing with a fork and a slave opposed to a internal hydraulic release bearing.
Good luck man. If you have issues like me you will pull your hair out.

I'm running the suggested DOT4, I really would prefer the fork setup myself for ease of maintenance too but I'm sure I'll get it working. What tranny are you running? Mine is a little hesitant going threw the gears and really slowing the car down, I wonder if getting the pedal working properly will help that?

 

[Wookie316]

I'm running the suggested DOT4, I really would prefer the fork setup myself for ease of maintenance too but I'm sure I'll get it working. What tranny are you running? Mine is a little hesitant going threw the gears and really slowing the car down, I wonder if getting the pedal working properly will help that?

TKO600 was in my car. Decided to go back to a 727 though. I had I high speed vib I could not get sorted out because I would need to lift the trans tunnel like you to get the tail up higher, so not wanting to do that I put a 727 back in. The TKO can sit in the corner till I figure out what to do with it?

 

[conv67bdere]

Alright . . . now you got me wondering about my TKO500 for my '67 Belvedere convertible . . .

if I need to raise the hump, I'd rather do it now while I've got it stripped down . . . Much easier to do it NOW . . .

 

[747mopar]

Here's a link to the problem I'm having. I'm going to have somebody (hint, hint) get me the proper tail shaft exit height and do what is necessary to get it right because worst comes to worst I'll swap in a T56 in the future which will need the mods anyhow.

http://www.w8ji.com/tko_600_shifting_problems.htm

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TKO600 was in my car. Decided to go back to a 727 though. I had I high speed vib I could not get sorted out because I would need to lift the trans tunnel like you to get the tail up higher, so not wanting to do that I put a 727 back in. The TKO can sit in the corner till I figure out what to do with it?

Easy to sell!

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Alright . . . now you got me wondering about my TKO500 for my '67 Belvedere convertible . . .

if I need to raise the hump, I'd rather do it now while I've got it stripped down . . . Much easier to do it NOW . . .

All I'm going to say is if I knew about all of this to begin with I definitely would have gone with the Viper or T56 tranny instead. It's great that I got a good deal on this so I could at least try it out and I think I'd love it if it would just shift fast but it's really hampering the performance and definitely isn't FER RACIN!

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Really seriously considering selling this tranny for what I paid. Simply because the main reason for wanting it was you didn't need to cut up the car but now I have shaker scoop issues, exhaust issues, driveshaft angles, etc. Reading up on this kit shows allot of complaints about vibrations (wonder why?) and 2-3 shifts so if I'm going to cut the cross member to get it all right why wouldn't I just buy the T56 or Viper tranny and get the better shifts as well?

 

[cdr]

it is easier to shim the k frame down,it will raise the tail.

 

[benno440]

Like i said way back, as i couldnt believe you were doing this because every install i have seen they have cut out alot of the floor, then when i saw your install you didnt cut out much at all. I feel for you having these problems, sucks balls aye.
a shame to have to cut it up. what about one of those lenko boxes or a passon 5 speed?

 

[cdr]

1/4 to 1/2 will give a lot more room for the trans

 

[benno440]

it is easier to shim the k frame down,it will raise the tail.

thats not a bad idea and should work well, make up a couple of aluminium bushes, lowering your weight centre of gravity will be good also.

 

[747mopar]

Like i said way back, as i couldnt believe you were doing this because every install i have seen they have cut out alot of the floor, then when i saw your install you didnt cut out much at all. I feel for you having these problems, sucks balls aye.
a shame to have to cut it up. what about one of those lenko boxes or a passon 5 speed?

Your thinking of the T56, it requires allot of cutting. I have the TKO 600 which was modified by Keisler to bolt right in (it's smaller). The T56 is the Cadillac of trannies and if I change it out I'm not pussy footing around anymore "I'm going all out". There's absolutely no shame in cutting it up in my book as long as the result is a better car.

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1/4 to 1/2 will give a lot more room for the trans

Good idea but I'll still have the shift problem.

 

[benno440]

Your thinking of the T56, it requires allot of cutting. I have the TKO 600 which was modified by Keisler to bolt right in (it's smaller). The T56 is the Cadillac of trannies and if I change it out I'm not pussy footing around anymore "I'm going all out". There's absolutely no shame in cutting it up in my book as long as the result is a better car.

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Good idea but I'll still have the shift problem.

too easy didnt know of the difference, thought they were all similiar sized.

 

[747mopar]

Tko 600



t56

 

[Propwash]

Man.......sorry to hear about the bad gig with the tranny. Hopefully santa tosses a t56 down your chimney. Congrat's on the new job though! Sounds a heck of a lot better than what you're working now. Good luck!