Roadrunner is out of hibernation, and is not happy about it.

[Propwash]

Hello fellow Countrymen!

After wasting away for half a year in a storage shed, my Plymouth is back in the garage at home. Over the course of our mini-ice age, the car's managed to pick up a couple issues.

First issue........ I drove into town to snag a couple shots of the car, and burn a little gas. In the process I spent some time creeping around a few one lane roads and business driveways in an older part of town, spending time at idle and up to 20MPH for about 30 minutes or so. Car got hot, which is strange. Last year I had the car in the same type of slow/low rpm scenario's plenty of times, but she stayed cool as a cucumber. Zero worries about getting warm, even at outside temps 20-30 degrees higher. I took some pic's, started the car up and she was real hot. So hot she didn't want to go. Hit a couple of bigger bumps & the car would spit and sputter. Got moving again and she cooled down quickly.

Second issue..... Transitioning through the gears, be it slow or aggressive the car pulls great. At one point I was traveling about 30MPH and gave the gas a heavy quick snap of the throttle (enough to open the secondaries). About 1 second after I let off the gas, the car dies. No stutter, no coughing...just shut off. Put it in neutral, about 5-7 rotations on the starter and it fired right back up. It did this to me twice. Like I said, I can transition through the throttle, lightly or hard and it won't stutter, cough or die. But if I give it a quick, hard stomp...it's lights out.

Third issue....temp gauge stopped working

So, I'm guessing that these issues are connected to each other (well, maybe besides the temp gauge). I haven't dug into the issue yet (had to leave for work), but wanted to bounce some ideas off you guys.

-Vacuum leak (causing the car to lean out & run hot)?
-Bad gas......(I left the car with only a 1/4 tank for storage and treated with Stabil, had a fresh tank of gas when this was happening), but maybe some water/moisture still solidified while sitting?
-Bad fan clutch?
-Plugged fuel filter (wouldn't I have an issue across all the RPM's?)
-Engine cut-out from running hot condition. (why would it perform well at steady throttle transition)?
-Blown/stretched accelerator pump in secondaries? (the carb did spit up twice while trying to initial start up out of hibernation?
-Cracked diaphragm in the fuel pump from sitting?
-A pre-existing bad carb setting I didn't catch last year with my limited amount of rive time (for the cut out issue)?
-Distributor issue? The engine was dyno tuned 18* initial, 34* all in for best temp, vacuum & power vs. the HP & TQ bell curves.
-Coil heating up?

Obviously I'm thinking of the basics of fuel and fire, but bouncing a bit all over the place. Driving me nuts thinking about it, especially since I wont be able to tear into it for a couple days. Anyways, if anyone has ever run into the cut-out condition or has other ideas with the overheat or gauge deciding not to work, I'm all ears. Thank you!


Not a good reunion, but at least a couple pic's turned out.... Here's the grouch sitting in a bit of a beat up part of town:

 

[HYRDGOON]

Wish I could be more help Will, Pic looks cool though!

 

[69 GTX]

Skelator doesn't like cold storage!

- - - Updated - - -

I had a tach wire short drive me crazy for 2 months trying to find it once!

 

[moparjohnny]

nothing you can not handle prop,just a few hibernation blues,i know you will sort it out,still looks super.

 

[WileE]

First, the basics. Leaving the tank empty is the worst thing to do. Condensation will cause heavier water to go to the bottom, so thats the first thing thats going into the carb. Drain/pump it all out, & start with fresh fuel.

 

[Gpuller]

Stuck thermostat? Is there coolant in the rad? LOL
Old gas? Have heard horror stories about Stabil.

If it were me I'd get some fresh gas in it and drive it a little more and see what happens. Wouldn't got trading it for a Chebby yet.

 

[Propwash]

Wish I could be more help Will, Pic looks cool though!

Thanks Goon! I will count you in as Director of Morale Support! LOL.

Skelator doesn't like cold storage!

- - - Updated - - -

I had a tach wire short drive me crazy for 2 months trying to find it once!

You know....it always seems to be the smallest little things that cause the biggest problems. I hope that's the case here too!

nothing you can not handle prop,just a few hibernation blues,i know you will sort it out,still looks super.

You bet Johnny! Maybe a couple swigs of old JD down the carb, she'd clear her throat!

First, the basics. Leaving the tank empty is the worst thing to do. Condensation will cause heavier water to go to the bottom, so thats the first thing thats going into the carb. Drain/pump it all out, & start with fresh fuel.

Thanks for the advice. A guy is left floating around in space with the whole "what to do with the gas in the tank during storage". Some say drain it....no fuel, some say partial & treat, and others like yourself say full (to avoid condensation). Only a 1/4 tank left so when I get back, i'll pound a couple laps and siphon the rest out. I'll report the findings.

- - - Updated - - -

Stuck thermostat? Is there coolant in the rad? LOL
Old gas? Have heard horror stories about Stabil.

If it were me I'd get some fresh gas in it and drive it a little more and see what happens. Wouldn't got trading it for a Chebby yet.

Plenty of coolant Reed. I did not check the flow of coolant but will when I get her running in a couple days. Trade for a Chebby? Hehehehe......now that's one problem you don't have to worry about with this car.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Hmm,
The "Temp" issue:
-Usual suspects?
As Gpuller suggested: Thermostat not fully functioning?
I have always "READ" that a slow-speeds if a car overheats it is water-pump/thermostat issues because not enough "cool air" coming across the radiator.
Prop, when is the last time you had the radiator flushed?
Also: did it overheat at speed? (above 50 mph?)
At "speed" the radiator is getting plenty of air across it...

The engine shut-off when hitting the throttle?

I would pop the hood, and whack the throttle lever on carb (with air cleaner off) and notice the fuel delivery.
Too much?

 

[Propwash]

Hmm,
The "Temp" issue:
-Usual suspects?
As Gpuller suggested: Thermostat not fully functioning?
I have always "READ" that a slow-speeds if a car overheats it is water-pump/thermostat issues because not enough "cool air" coming across the radiator.
Prop, when is the last time you had the radiator flushed?
Also: did it overheat at speed? (above 50 mph?)
At "speed" the radiator is getting plenty of air across it...

The engine shut-off when hitting the throttle?

I would pop the hood, and whack the throttle lever on carb (with air cleaner off) and notice the fuel delivery.
Too much?

Thanks for the reply Ski! The radiator has only been ran for one season, so basically new. Anti-freeze is a nice clean green. No hazing or discoloration. I would guess any issue would be like you and Reed mentioned, the thermostat. Nothing weeping from the water pump. It only was hot at low speed/idle.

I did pop off the air cleaner and tapped on the accelerator pump arms. Fuel seemed to come out like it should. I did not try rotating at WOT. I know when I do i'll be wearing double hearing protection, because with the air cleaner off & revving the car to WOT is about as loud as standing at the pad at Cape Canaveral during liftoff.

Thanks for chiming in! The more I can look at when going to dig into this the better!

 

[super-bee_ski]

Peculiar huh?
Very strange.....
Keep us posted on these anomalies...

 

[lewtot184]

sometimes when fuel is left in a carb for long storage it turns to a blackish-brown gum. i'd take it apart for a cleaning. sometimes the advance weights in the distributor will get "sticky" creating an erratic behavior. so take it apart and make sure everything is working and lubed up. thermostat may be sticking or maybe need to be replaced. check belt tensions too. BTW, nice car!

 

[Sonny Black]

I had a problem with bad gas ( used all the stable,Sea Foam , & yadah yadah yadah)...dumped the gas and 1/2 the problems were eliminated ......might be a start..
BTW; I diluted the fuel and it DID NOT HELP!..I had to dump it...


I will be watching this thread :thinker:

 

[71airgrabberRR]

Will I would have to agree with what was mentioned above. By chance did you store it with ethanol gas in it???

If so you may be looking at replacing the accelerator pump in your carb.

That would cause your stumble, particularly just off idle. Try to give it a drink of some good high test premium fuel and see what happens.

As far as the overheating problem, it can also cause a hard starting problem on e the engine is not running or stalled out. Definitely sounds fuel related there.

I would go out and check the coolant level again since you shut it down the last time. It could have lost some coolant out of the overflow tube when it got hot.

If the coolant level is good, start it up with the radiator cap off while it is cold and watch the water flow in the radiator. As the thermostat opens up you will notice the coolant moving in the radiator. Once it does start moving fluid, tap the throttle a time or two and see if more coolant is passing through. This will tell you if the thermostat is opening. But it will not let you know if it is opening fully.

Also try squeezing the lower radiator hose by hand when it is cold. If you can, see if you can feel the spring inside the hose. I have had the springs rot out during storage and this can cause the lower hose to collapse , which can also lead to overheating.

BTW. Be careful when standing over the radiator with the cap off. Sometimes water can come spraying out of the radiator opening unexpectedly. I normally hold the radiator cap while I'm wearing a welding glove in case I have to quickly put the cap back on to help prevent getting burned.

Please keep us posted .........

 

[Cranky]

It's been years since I let a car sit for 6 months or longer so I don't know if the Stabil will benefit that or not but it sure helps with the small engines but I also use the marine Stabil. And ethanol laced fuel will sure wreak havoc so that crap gets a double dose of the treatment. Like already mentioned, get rid all of the old gas and use it for weed killer or to lite off a bon fire . Last time I had engine problems, the gas still smelled good but it wasn't and after replacing it, things were ok. Also, you have no idea how fresh it was from the filling station. Most cases there's very little lag time from the refiner to the dealer but sometimes for whatever reason, storage times can be longer than expected so if it's already starting to get old, the Stabil won't do much good then it sits for many more months in your tank....but IMO, it's a good product but it won't freshen a fuel that's already showing signs of deterioration. And I use the marine stable because of the humidity in this area being so close to the Gulf of Mexico....and it might be a good idea to run a fuel system cleaner for a tank or two if you are still having some issues after filling it with a load of fresh fuel.

 

[lewtot184]

my cars are set up to where i can drive them all year; and i do, weather permitting.

 

[HawkRod]

Hi Prop,

Grumpy or not, your car still looks awesome!

With the rough winter, I would also guess that you have gotten water in your fuel. I have heard that a full tank is best. The reason for this is that when it is at 1/4 full like yours was, the air provides more volume and ability for moisture to be absorbed by the fuel. Don't know how true that is, but is sounds plausible to me.

Draining a tank can be a PITA, so maybe some simple dry gas may help. LOL, I know it is basically ethanol which we complain so much about, but it will help absorb pockets of water. Also, if your fuel isn't so good, the "best solution for pollution is dilution". I would burn off as much as you can and then put a tank of fresh fuel with a bottle of dry gas. Maybe combine that with a quick dump of the fuel from the carb with some carb cleaner and see what happens?

Either way, best of luck!

 

[WileE]

Hi Prop,

Grumpy or not, your car still looks awesome!
... a full tank is best. The reason for this is that when it is at 1/4 full like yours was, the air provides more volume and ability for moisture to be absorbed by the fuel. ..simple dry gas may help. LOL, I know it is basically ethanol which we complain so much about, but it will help absorb pockets of water.

Correct, EXCEPT.. the water is NOT absorbed by the fuel. Rather, the heavier water settles lower than the fuel. So, the pickup sucks all water. Depending on conditions, there can be just as much water as the remaining fuel ! ( Humidity & ambient temperature changes are the factors. ) Conversely, the ethanol gasoline is not as bad, for the latter point you made: it WILL absorb moisture & still burn somewhat. This condition became more prevalent in the 80's when F.I. engines appeared & helped us upsell customers for tune-up & other maintenance work.

 

[hunt2elk]

I have heard that keeping a full tank over the winter is best also, but have never done it. Mine sit in a heated building, so that probably helps me out a lot. I have heard that todays fuel with ethanol starts to break down after about a week. The original Stabil is also not as good as the Marine stuff. I've been told the regular red stuff only protects gas for about 30 days. Not sure if any of this is true, but I switched to the Marine blend years ago and have had no problems. There also is a difference between summer and winter gas, maybe you got some of the winter blend?

 

[Propwash]

Wow! Thanks for taking the time to post fella's. I appreciate it. Also, thanks for the compliments. Going off what you're all saying here, I have a pretty good punch list to start working off. Thank you!

The car didn't have any sort of ethanol blend in it. I use 91-92oct ethanol free fuel in her. Feel like a bit of a horses *** leaving it with only 1/4 tank, because it seems that's the common consensus seems to store it full or drain it completely. Wish I could have left the bird in a heated shop Joel. Unfortunately space is tight with the Dart torn apart, a couple snowmobiles and the John Deere w/blower taking up the rest of the space in the winter time. I've honestly never had a problem in the past with fuel, but I'm sure fuel just keeps going down in quality as the years go by. When I get back in a couple days, I'll siphon out the tank and fill her up with a full tank of the old blue Kool-aide Turbo Blue. I'll also be pulling apart the carb for a good cleaning like lew mentioned, as well as check/lube the springs/weights in the distributor. Going off what a couple others mentioned, check the thermostat as well as the lower radiator hose.

So what a majority of you guys are thinking is that with a smooth transition through the throttle, water trapped in the system can be burnt up with causing a noticeable hick-up, but in an instant acceleration/hard quick throttle, the engine becomes overcome by too much? Also, water in the fuel may be causing the lean run condition, thus overheating. Or it may be a compound issue with the thermostat not opening or a lower radiator hose collapsing? I'll tackle these issues right off the bat as soon as I get back. Thanks a bunch guys!

 

[747mopar]

Boy that sounds like a thermostat, the thermostat in my Charger did that for a short while. It would get hot so I'd pull over and of coarse the temp would climb but then after firing it back up it would let loose of coarse as soon as I bought a new one it quit doing it. That could also lead to vapor locking or boiling the fuel out of the carb as well. Don't know about the fuel, I've never had an issue with fuel going bad over the winter to where it caused problems. At least she still looks mean as hell.