Rubber Mounts Vs Solid

[mopar367]

I am replacing my rubber, biscuit type engine mounts on my dodge ram 440. I built some home made steel ones the same. Anyone tried running solid mounts like this? Pros and cons? I just took stock rubber mounts and welded steel into them instead of the rubber. Still running stock trans mount as of now.

Reason for this is after a night of racing at the track the engine was sitting crooked in there lol

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't like the vibration of solid mounts so all I plan on doing is making a torque strap.

 

[mopar367]

I have ran with one solid mount and one rubber before. Didn't shake too bad. We will see how 2 feel. I considered a chain with a bolt to the frame to put tension on the thrust side of the engine. they look bad *** too.

 

[benno440]

like mentioned i would use a torque strap or a chain form engine to chassis. solid mounts will do long term damage unless you have a fully custom chassis. plus vibration etc. possibility of snapping the mounts off your block etc.

 

[mopar367]

Hmm, that is a good point. You think it would actually break off the mounting tabs?

 

[benno440]

i have seen it berfore
this is why the people that use solid mounts use a front motor mount and tie it to the chassis, never solid mount you stock block mounts. one launch at the lights and your engine will hit the bonnet lol

 

[RustyRatRod]

Imagine how totally useless your block would become with snapped off mount ears. Cast iron is a mutha to weld and get right too. Here's one to think about. Drill a hole completely through the rubber mount and also a hole through the K frame to match it and run a bolt completely through it with a nylock lock nut and washer on the other side. Tighten it until it JUST begins to pull the mount biscuit down and call it done.

 

[mopar367]

I'm just weighing my options. Maybe I'll try the chain and see if it helps any.

- - - Updated - - -

That's a good Idea Rusty, Might be a mother to get a drill in there though.

 

[Cranky]

Ran solid mounts on the engine and rubber on the trans in a 68 road runner back in the early 80's that ran 10.60's. Had over 300 passes on that thing but it also had frame ties and a 6 point bar. I would think all you need is good mounts on the passenger side and trans and do the cable/chain on the driver's side of the engine. A cable tie looks cleaner than a chain imo.

 

[MoparBill]

I use polylock mounts from Mancini racing- pricey, but it's like the best of both worlds.

 

[mopar367]

Wish I didn't already make a second solid mount before coming on here. Makes me think twice about running it. 3 hours wasted lol

 

[Cranky]

Wish I didn't already make a second solid mount before coming on here. Makes me think twice about running it. 3 hours wasted lol

3 hours of learning isn't bad....

 

[RustyRatRod]

Sell um on ebay if you changed your mind about um. Paint um up and make um look good. They'll sell.

 

[mopar367]

Haha 3 hrs of cutting and welding practice lol

 

[Moparmatt72]

I've ran solids on my 440 in my 72 for years with no issues had to go to them due to my cam rocked the engine so bad with rubber mounts that I cracked the welds on the primary tubes from hitting the shock tower.

 

[mopar367]

Well I might try a strap/ chain. And if I don't like it or want to change I can always put my spare solid mount in, in the future.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I've always heard that as long as you run a rubber trans mount, you're ok with solid engine mounts. Hell if I know though.

 

[rev.ronnie]

Solid mounts will put undue stress on the side of the block and the front two cylinders. A locking H/D mount and a torque limiter to the cylinder head is a better plan...a motor plate is best. Obviously, the higher the torque, the more important this is.

We used to see small block chev 400s wiping out number 3-5 pistons back in the day till we put two and two together on the engine mount issue.

 

[splicer]

I'm running stock rubber mounts and a Scumacher torque strap....adjusted to just snug downpressure, the rubber mount takes care of vibration in street driving and the strap keeps things in place at the drag strip....the car pulls the left front wheel so I know there's lots of torque goin on...

Splicer

 

[67 coronet]

i use the interlocking rubber mounts sold by mancini and 440 source.they have worked great on several cars with no problems handeling 600 plus hp.best of both worlds in my opinion.