Save me from spending $$$ on a Sure Grip rebuild.

[wsutard]

I'm, getting tons of chatter from my 3.55 Sure Grip rear end. I sucked out the old oil, put in new LSD Additive and replaced the oil. Took it for a spin, did my figure 8's and no change in the chatter.

Any other suggestions before I take it up to Randy's Ring and Pinion to get it rebuilt?

Here is the oil that came out of it.

 

[Lionized]

May just need to set-up. Not necessarily full rebuild mode. Replacing the oil is a good first step.

 

[wsutard]

Do you mean the additive may need to set into the Sure Grip or something else?

I'm definitely going to drive it more tomorrow to see if it needed to soak in.

 

[dla4567]

Having it rebuilt would probably be cheaper than having it lock up at 80 MPH.

 

[wsutard]

Valid point. I intend to do something quickly about this. If no one has other suggestions then I'm yanking it tomorrow.

 

[miller]

Might be a good idea. See lots of metal in the lube.

 

[Lionized]

Do you mean the additive may need to set into the Sure Grip or something else?

I'm definitely going to drive it more tomorrow to see if it needed to soak in.

I mean checking the pinion gear backlash/depth, crush sleeve etc.

 

[moper]

Metal's there. It's not worth driving. It's going bad & needs mechanical repair. If it's a clutch type - just replace it.

 

[rrTor-Red]

Just a suggestion here. If you end up yanking it out to rebuild, it might not be a bad idea to put a drain plug in the pumpkin

 

[wsutard]

Just a suggestion here. If you end up yanking it out to rebuild, it might not be a bad idea to put a drain plug in the pumpkin

Would that make it weaker? Im not dragging or racing with this but I do like to light them up

 

[rrTor-Red]

Would that make it weaker? Im not dragging or racing with this but I do like to light them up

Weaker? No
I put one on my 8 3/4. Just drilled off center to the right of the center so I wouldn't hit the gear, tapped hole, inserted a plug. Makes changing the oil a whole lot easier

 

[miller]

Probably already know this, but...be sure to do a good cleaning inside the axle housing, to get that powdered metal out.

 

[wsutard]

OK, I did another fluid swap and included the Ford Friction Modifier this time. Still the same chatter. At this point I think the next step is to actually have it rebuilt. Thanks for all the advice. I am most definitely going to clean it out good and get a bung hole for it!

 

[Ron H]

As I encountered recently - a nightmare - with getting my sure grip rebuilt make sure the place that will do the work has experience with the sure grip not just doing GM and Ford rears. 1st guy drove it 5 miles and trashed the brand new R&P, next guy thought he could "adjust" saving the R&P doing some die-grinding, not possible and ended up way too loose so another rebuild. They're different from GM/Ford and shimming, correct backlash, etc. etc. can be a bitch to get it just right.

 

[Lionized]

As I encountered recently - a nightmare - with getting my sure grip rebuilt make sure the place that will do the work has experience with the sure grip not just doing GM and Ford rears. 1st guy drove it 5 miles and trashed the brand new R&P, next guy thought he could "adjust" saving the R&P doing some die-grinding, not possible and ended up way too loose so another rebuild. They're different from GM/Ford and shimming, correct backlash, etc. etc. can be a bitch to get it just right.

Takes some serious patience for sure.
A Mopar specialist is mandatory.

 

[wsutard]

Luckily Randys Ring and Pinion is about 10 miles from me. They are well known in the world of Rear Ends...

 

[dla4567]

The piece of mind you'll have will be worth the cost.

 

[Cranky]

Didn't you say the wheels are locked together? So what's making the chatter sound and do you know what type of SureGrip is in it? And I've had experience with the Ford additive. Didn't work for me either....

 

[wsutard]

Wheels are not supposed to be locked. There is no locker or spool. It should function like a normal Sure Grip, 3.55, 489. As I have been told, it should release when going around corners thus letting the outside wheel spin faster than the inside wheel.

 

[Cranky]

Wheels are not supposed to be locked. There is no locker or spool. It should function like a normal Sure Grip, 3.55, 489. As I have been told, it should release when going around corners thus letting the outside wheel spin faster than the inside wheel.

Yup....but what's chattering? I've driven cars on the street that had spools in them and know the inside tire will chirp chirp chirp when going around a corner and have also seen people install the clutches wrong and end up locking up like a spool and do the same chirping with the tires. Heck, pull it and take it apart and see what's going on inside. They ain't that hard to do. Just mark the bearings for left and right and pay attention to what you're doing. And you don't even have to pull the ring gear off the carrier....