Slow after 5000rpm

[66Satellite47]

If you keep it 6000 - 6200 the lower end will last a very long time. Cast cranks are fine. Cam selection is always a guess. The Lunati you are considering looks OK, not radical, should be a fit. You may also consider a different converter for better ET's. The right converter makes performance.

 

[dcala84141]

So what is the final outcome
Did you solve your problem with no power after 5000rpm? If so what combo did u use
Thanks

 

[Ceedawg]

Any engine I have had that had 11.5 compression or better would rev past 7000, my 440 with stock 8 to 1 compression good cam, intake, carb and worked 452s won’t go over 5000 either. 4.88s, J converter

 

[Paul Secoy]

Not sure if it was mentioned, but I believe you said you are running a stock Chrysler distributor? I had one, (brand new) that had so much slop in the shaft the reluctor wheel would contact the pick up at a fairly low rpm. I installed an MSD and picked up a bunch of rpm.

Also check to be sure it doesn't continue advancing past what you think, had a friend who didn't check his past 3,000 rpms., fought with no top end for a year, finally found it kept advancing well past 3,000 and he was running 50+ degrees. Once fixed, he took almost a full second off his ETs. Good luck.

 

[66Satellite47]

Any engine I have had that had 11.5 compression or better would rev past 7000, my 440 with stock 8 to 1 compression good cam, intake, carb and worked 452s won’t go over 5000 either. 4.88s, J converter

In my opinion, RPM potential is mainly limited by fuel delivery(pump, line size, carb adjustment) or valve train(cam size & specs, valve springs, maybe valve geometry).
BTW, my Mopar distributors from many years ago were fine, not at all sure of todays quality.

 

[Ceedawg]

In my opinion, RPM potential is mainly limited by fuel delivery(pump, line size, carb adjustment) or valve train(cam size & specs, valve springs, maybe valve geometry).
BTW, my Mopar distributors from many years ago were fine, not at all sure of todays quality.

Had all those things covered nicely. Did change springs-no help. Has a 509, maybe the lifters are bad

 

[383man]

I agree a nice solid cam combo will help. My old 440 combo was 10.0 comp and I ran 906 iron heads I ported with the MP .557 solid cam. Holley SD intake and a 850 Holley DP with 1-3/4 hedman headers. Car weighs 3700 without me in it and its best with that eng was 11.49 @ 116 through the exh on pump gas on a good day. It always ran 11.80's to 11.50's depending on the air. I easily pushed that combo to over 6000 rpm. I usually shifted about 6000 as that's where it felt the best. Good luck on yours as I am sure there is much more in it. Ron

 

[66Satellite47]

I agree a nice solid cam combo will help. My old 440 combo was 10.0 comp and I ran 906 iron heads I ported with the MP .557 solid cam. Holley SD intake and a 850 Holley DP with 1-3/4 hedman headers. Car weighs 3700 without me in it and its best with that eng was 11.49 @ 116 through the exh on pump gas on a good day. It always ran 11.80's to 11.50's depending on the air. I easily pushed that combo to over 6000 rpm. I usually shifted about 6000 as that's where it felt the best. Good luck on yours as I am sure there is much more in it. Ron

That seems darn good to me. I never ran any of the Mopar cams, 585/308 General Kinetics was my baseline & up from there(drag only, open headers). The guys with the Mopar grinds were slower. Cams are mystical, LOL.

 

[383man]

That seems darn good to me. I never ran any of the Mopar cams, 585/308 General Kinetics was my baseline & up from there(drag only, open headers). The guys with the Mopar grinds were slower. Cams are mystical, LOL.

I myself have only run 2 MP cams and both worked nice. I always like the MP .557 solid flat tappet cam s it seemed to work nicely in a mild built eng and make decent power. I also ran the old MP .484 hydraulic flat tappet cam in my old 383 Dart that was very stock. It was stock bore and piston 383 with 452 heads we pocket ported and milled for a true 9.5 com. The MP .484 cam on a 104 installed centerline with the RPM intake and a 750 DP. Stock rockers and valvetrain with Comp single springs. In a 3650 lb 72 Dart with the 180 driver in the car and 3.91 gears using a Turbo Action tight 3000 converter it ran a best of 12.31 @ 110. It had good low end for that cam and I loved how it idled. But now I am using a Dwayne Porter flat tappet solid cam in my 63 as I wanted a custom grind to work real nice with the combo and I love it. Ron

 

[66Satellite47]

Wish that cam selection could really be done with the simulation programs. Seems like that does get you in the ball park, but lots of variables that are hard to account for. For my 446RB & 452B motors with 12.0-12.3 CR & extensive ported 906 or 915's the old Cam Dynamics 265/285 - 300/310 (about 265/[email protected]) worked good, Kinetics mushroom 635/645 275/[email protected] was equal to my best solid rollers. But cam design is much better today, especially on valve train IMHO. I think combination is still the key for a given application.

 

[Bee1971]

Another thread on the same subject just a few months later

Original poster in both

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/another-cam-selection-thread.178746/