solid lifter/edelbrock head guys?

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

The aluminum head is expanding and lifting the rocker shaft away from the cam and valve tips. On the aluminum heads it's pretty typical to be .006" loose hot, after setting the lash cold. If your lash is .020" hot, just set it .014" cold.

If you are going to set it hot, do one side, fire the engine back up and warm it up, then do the second side.

This is exactly right if you are using a iron block and aluminum heads.
If you have a aluminum block and heads you need to go .012 tighter cold
I only adjust hot now since my B1 TS headed motor has a valve lash of .012 hot. Cold I have 0 lash.

 

[Mike Gaines]

I am in the process right of installing a set of INDY SEZ aluminum heads on my 440 Coronet right now.
INDY instuctions are specific...they say that on the initial setup(which of course would be "cold") set the valve lash at .010tighter than hot....so when it heats up then reset them at the desired lash...which would .010" looser.
My cam says .023" HOT lash so we have set the valves at .013" cold. We have not started the car yet. When we do start it up tomorrow (waiting for my new set of INDY LOGO valves covers to come in tomorrow morning) we will then heat up the motor and reset them at the specified .023" Hot.

 

[Propwash]

Just a quick question............setting the valves; I just start on #1 and adjust the intake when the exhaust is starting to open, and adjust exhaust when the intake is just starting to close. You guys doing it the same way?

 

[dvw]

No its a Bullet cam. Yeah, that seems kind of tight huh.

Tight is always better than loose, no matter what. Less chance for failure.

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Just a quick question............setting the valves; I just start on #1 and adjust the intake when the exhaust is starting to open, and adjust exhaust when the intake is just starting to close. You guys doing it the same way?

Yup

 

[IQ52]

This is exactly right if you are using a iron block and aluminum heads.
If you have a aluminum block and heads you need to go .012 tighter cold
I only adjust hot now since my B1 TS headed motor has a valve lash of .012 hot. Cold I have 0 lash.

Yep, I find myself in the same jam when running solid lifters on a hydraulic cam while using aluminum heads on an iron block. .005"-.006" hot lash means zero lash cold.

 

[69 GTX]

Great info here guys, thanks for sharing!

 

[Challenger340]

Yep, INDY's will "grow" when warm and add .010" to your cold lash.
BTW,
"Cold" lash should only be for startup ? ..... you always gotta re-check it "HOT" once thermally stabilized.

 

[Canyon707]

There is a good video on youtube on lash setting from calcomp

 

[moper]

On a fresh start I'll set them loose cold. It will always run loose. Once it's warmed up, I set like IQ says... get it hot, do one side. Button it up, run it, get it hot, do the other side. I'll check again after it's been heat cycled a time or two.

 

[lewtot184]

On a fresh start I'll set them loose cold. It will always run loose. Once it's warmed up, I set like IQ says... get it hot, do one side. Button it up, run it, get it hot, do the other side. I'll check again after it's been heat cycled a time or two.

pretty sure i was letting one bank get too cool before setting the lash. if i go back to a hot setting what you and IQ recommend is what i will do.

 

[Bigal75]

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/how-to-set-and-adjust-valve-lash-like-a-pro/

check this out...they say set them cold. Most accurate way.