Stock stroke 440 - Scrounging for power

[wyrmrider]

x2 on the rockers
have B3 see if you need any relocation with whatever rockers you choose he will give you a straight shot
you ditched those heave 6 pack rods good move
hope you dialed in your quench .030-040
an earlier post said tf helped on detonatio- but that;s only if you put some quench in there
better off with a dished piston than an open chamber with more than .050 piston to head
any build tips to pass along?
same 284 cam- that ought to make a torque beast

 

[Cranky]

I 'hate' the stock rocker setup and try to go with aftermarket whenever possible. Also don't care for rollerized rockers that much. Just more needle bearings plus the cost of them is imo counterproductive because they really do not show much if any HP gain on a dyno. And the biggest 'hate' on the 6 pack rods besides being heavy were the stock rod bolts. ChryCo saw a problem with them breaking and had a lot of warranty work because of them but didn't see the need for better fasteners so they continued to have failures. That said, there are better rods but with premium bolts, the 6 pack rods will do the job. However, they need to be prepped. I've done many over the years and have never had any fail. Thing is, it's time consuming but rewarding if you can do them yourself. If you think 6 pack rods were heavy, pick up a set of Hemi rods......and dem dang things gots sum big arse fasteners!!

 

[biomedtechguy]

From the members in this forum as well as some research I decided to go with the TF240s. Considered the 270s but I think for my lower levels it’d be more than enough. Just like any heads that claim they can be run “out the box” there was a little shavings and some areas that need to be hand ported when we recurved them but otherwise they are pretty impressive.
After cracking open my block some of my rods were shot. I’m surprised there wasn’t a hole in the side of the the block. Goes to show you can’t trust an engine from someone else you’ve never been inside of... so i went with a 512” Stroker kit from 440Source. (block was already bored .30 over).
It’s crazy - I came to ask advice about making power out of a standard stroke and ended up going for a full rebuild!

The TF 240s will work fine, even with the 512 stroker. My plans, if I live to see them come to pass, are to use a BME aluminum block, so I also want to go to 540 cu in.
If that all gets shot to hell, I'll drop a pair of TF 240s on my 440 6bbl and go from there.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

x2 on the rockers
have B3 see if you need any relocation with whatever rockers you choose he will give you a straight shot
you ditched those heave 6 pack rods good move
hope you dialed in your quench .030-040
an earlier post said tf helped on detonatio- but that;s only if you put some quench in there
better off with a dished piston than an open chamber with more than .050 piston to head
any build tips to pass along?
same 284 cam- that ought to make a torque beast

Going with dished pistons. We are decking the block this week but compression we are going for is 10.7:1
Cam is a Lunati 263/271. Solid flat tappet 3-Bolt. I think it’ll be good for the street. In about a year I’m getting stationed overseas for 3 years so for now I’m just gonna have a blast with the car and when I get back it’ll probably come off the street and go into full race trim.

Howard’s .904 lifters, Melling high volume oil pump, Pro-form 950 Carb w/ vacuum secondaries. Staying with the M1 performance intake with a 1 inch spacer. Rockers are the 1.5 Harland Sharpe’s that TrickFlow recommends. Ordered a conveyer from Frank Lupo @ Dynamic’s. 9.5 converter w/ a 4K flash stall. Last night put on some M&H 275/60/15s and gonna keep my 4.10 gears.

Finally have everything ordered for the block, just waiting on my Kilduff shifter and we’ll put it all together. Wish I had enough money left for a Dana. I suppose that stimulus check is coming in

Like you said any build tips would be appreciated!

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

The TF 240s will work fine, even with the 512 stroker. My plans, if I live to see them come to pass, are to use a BME aluminum block, so I also want to go to 540 cu in.
If that all gets shot to hell, I'll drop a pair of TF 240s on my 440 6bbl and go from there.

With that aluminum block I’m sure your cars nose is gonna be in the sky!

 

[Road Grabber]

Since you didn't mention it, I'll assume you have the 6 pak steel crank as well?
ARP rod bolts are what I've seen suggested numerous times, and if your budget dictates keeping the cost down, then just change those out to the ARPs, cheap insurance and peace of mind. That will take the weakest link out of the reciprocating assembly.
TrickFlow 240s on that engine are going to make a world of difference, and yes, they should be an improvement over iron heads regarding detonation.
I defer to those with more experience and knowledge as to how the combustion chambers of the TF 240s are going to affect your compression ratio, but if they raise it to 11:1 you should still be fine on premium pump gas.
I have what I and others believe is the 292°/.509 cam, it's definitely a purple stripe Mopar cam, and some have said the sound gives it away, but I stand on the performance as to why I'm as sure as I can be without actually knowing the specs of the cam. My 440 6bbl demands that I let it spin up to 6,200 max, and my shift light is set at 5,800, limiter set to 6,200. That all came into play when I replaced worn valve springs and iffy hydraulic FT lifters. I put in new stock pushrods, and Comp Cams hydraulic lifters, springs, locks, and retainers and where the engine used to feel like it was coming on to the first 1/3rd of some serious power, around 5,200 RPMs and then fell on its face because of valve float, well now it's a BEAST all the way to "redline" and I have to attribute that to the cam.
I can only imagine the improvement of the TF 240s, and those were going to be THE choice for me, no question about it, but I hope to build a stroker motor, and that has me looking at the 270s.
View attachment 936025

Thank you for the post. I do have the original crank for a 6 pack engine and the heavier duty rods. I would like to get the most out of the heads and keep the power brakes working properly. When Trickflow sells a top end kit that they say you can bolt right onto a stock 440 and make ridiculous 550 to 620 HP that just sounds a little crazy and everyone knows when you change one thing it drastically effects another. I want HP but don't want to here that horrible sound of an engine blowing up. The 284/484 purple shaft cam I have now produces 11 vacuum. I am not familiar enough with roller hydraulic cams and how an engine reacts with different grinds for them. Cam manufacturers don't provide vacuum specs with dyno tests but it is a good indicator for how an engine will idle and react in traffic. Years ago I could look into my Direct Connection book and follow a performance list of components to produce a results using recommended parts. I don't have that source anymore using the newer stuff but I would like to take advantage of whats out there today.

 

[MiradaMegaCab]

You want to increased low end torque a 671 blower would do that and is simple bolt on. Nothing says “look at me” like a Roots blower. No head porting required, the blower will push the air through.
ProCharger is another option.
These definitely require a cam change to a wide 114 LSA. I believe your cam is a tight 108LSA.....
Keep the converter and gear the same.

 

[66Satellite47]

Thank you for the post. I do have the original crank for a 6 pack engine and the heavier duty rods. I would like to get the most out of the heads and keep the power brakes working properly. When Trickflow sells a top end kit that they say you can bolt right onto a stock 440 and make ridiculous 550 to 620 HP that just sounds a little crazy and everyone knows when you change one thing it drastically effects another. I want HP but don't want to here that horrible sound of an engine blowing up. The 284/484 purple shaft cam I have now produces 11 vacuum. I am not familiar enough with roller hydraulic cams and how an engine reacts with different grinds for them. Cam manufacturers don't provide vacuum specs with dyno tests but it is a good indicator for how an engine will idle and react in traffic. Years ago I could look into my Direct Connection book and follow a performance list of components to produce a results using recommended parts. I don't have that source anymore using the newer stuff but I would like to take advantage of whats out there today.

Grabber, if you stick with the 6 Pak rods, do the proper prep, profile the small ends(Hemi style), shot peen them, best rod bolts(ARP premium). Then keep the RPM at or below 6500. I ran prepped LY rods in my bracket motors, 7000+ RPM many thousand runs, wore out stock steel cranks though at about 500 runs. I'm sure I'd have been safe at 6500. Live & learn. I'm sure you can do better than any Purple shaft with a modern design. Get the valve train to match the cam & TF heads.

 

[wyrmrider]

If you are changing pistons loose the heavy six pack rods and go to some light pistons
will make it rev like a 283 chevy (well almost
Mopar Performance SPS bolts are fine
A standard acceleration HR cam is almost the same as a good standard .904 mopar cam till you get to big durations
FT is a little quicker to .100 unless you use an inverse radius on the flank of the roller, simple mechanics
you cannot duplicate a .904 ST lobe on a roller without going inverted, cant physically be done
Overlap is a big factor in vacuum and then higher compression
you can do better than the purple shafts and they have gotten pricey
I like lube saver lifters on FT hyd cams

 

[66Satellite47]

BTW, I do agree with wyrmrider, lite pistons & rods are a big benefit if in the budget. Didn't know the SPS bolts are still available. I used SPS in all my bracket motors, no problems in 20 years with them.

 

[wyrmrider]

I think Crower has/uses sps bolts
is there a sps website?

 

[biomedtechguy]

Since hydraulic roller lifters and cam have once again been discussed, and although I'm about to refer to a Pontiac, not a Mopar, when we did a performance enhancing rebuild on the 421 Tripower in my wife's 65 GTO, (the rebuild was required-it had a cracked big end rod bearing-the "performance enhancing part" was "may as well") my builder recommended a Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam and lifters. That's what it has, and the cam isn't radical at all, and I hadn't learned of IQ52 aka Jim Laroy's aversion for hydraulic roller lifters. Now what I expect is what we have so far w/the 421. A great running, low maintenance, reliable engine that I don't have to check valve lash and I can run "regular" oil in it vs the VR-1 Valvoline in my hydraulic FT equipped 440+6.
Now that I know how Jim feels strongly about NOT running hydraulic roller lifters, AND because of the inherent advantages of the larger diameter Mopar/AMC lifters, more than likely I'll run a solid FT cam in my stroker, because that will certainly meet my performance goals along with everything else that I have planned for the build, and the only maintenance those lifters need is an occasional lash check/adjustment. Solid roller lifters on a mostly street driven car is definitely NOT something I want to have to contend with.

 

[beanhead]

Boost is a wonderfull thing!! 9.6 on pump gas @ 135+ MPH.Stock front suspension and Cak traks out back. Fair weather toy that gets around 1000 per year.
This is 6 years ago,a friend found it on you tube as I don't know the vid taker! AND,,,,,,,I was shooting ducks going down the track

Yeah....this is an old thread and I'm not contributing other than to say,

Get 'em Al! Baaad *** my friend. That was great to see!