Supposedly a 70 RT track pack car, any input on errors or value?

[chargervert]

Don't snooze! Get r done!

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

Go get it!

Go get it!

Rust seem about on par with what’s out there? My 68 shell needs most panels and a driver frame rail. It’ll probably be sold if I buy this. I did see an old trunk dropoff repair.

Don't snooze! Get r done!

I just hope there isn’t a ton of hiding rust lol. It’s more solid than my 68 by far. I remember trying the cheap magnet test, and it seemed mostly solid where you’d suspect the usual bondo filling.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I have a buyer lined up for a car of mine. Might go up with cash this week. Any last minute tips or things to verify before pulling the trigger?

 

[chargervert]

Well my white 70 Charger R/T is back home in the garage,is yours home yet?

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

Well my white 70 Charger R/T is back home in the garage,is yours home yet?

Well, I find myself in an interesting situation. I might have a lead on a 68 base model with interior and parts for 2005 type prices. Normal rust. Trying to decide whether that RT at todays prices is still worth the extra. I like the car, but I’d have to sell another car that’ll probably be going up in value. Kind of a big decision. Any serious concerns from what you see that could make the 70 even more expensive?

 

[hunt2elk]

Well, I find myself in an interesting situation. I might have a lead on a 68 base model with interior and parts for 2005 type prices. Normal rust. Trying to decide whether that RT at todays prices is still worth the extra. I like the car, but I’d have to sell another car that’ll probably be going up in value. Kind of a big decision. Any serious concerns from what you see that could make the 70 even more expensive?

A 68 selling at 2005 prices? You best be hooking up a trailer and getting that one in your garage.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

A 68 selling at 2005 prices? You best be hooking up a trailer and getting that one in your garage.

Say I could swing both, is there any concern you guys see as far as rot or body damage that would make this risky at even 28.5 if the seller will take it? I’m tempted to try to buy both.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Say I could swing both, is there any concern you guys see as far as rot or body damage that would make this risky at even 28.5 if the seller will take it? I’m tempted to try to buy both.

Buy ‘em. The way prices are going, you’ll double your money in 6 months.

 

[DeltaV]

Say I could swing both, is there any concern you guys see as far as rot or body damage that would make this risky at even 28.5 if the seller will take it? I’m tempted to try to buy both.

Ask (again) the body experts here about the damage you posted here:

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-errors-or-value.221570/page-2#post-911930302

 

[chargervert]

Well, I find myself in an interesting situation. I might have a lead on a 68 base model with interior and parts for 2005 type prices. Normal rust. Trying to decide whether that RT at todays prices is still worth the extra. I like the car, but I’d have to sell another car that’ll probably be going up in value. Kind of a big decision. Any serious concerns from what you see that could make the 70 even more expensive?

The car appears to need some metal work in the typical areas,but is more solid than others in most areas. I don't see anything that scares me. Being a 4 speed Dana R/T is a huge plus over a standard model Charger.

 

[hunt2elk]

Say I could swing both, is there any concern you guys see as far as rot or body damage that would make this risky at even 28.5 if the seller will take it? I’m tempted to try to buy both.

I say buy them both. Once home you can decide which one you want to build. Sell the other for a profit and money towards the keeper. 68's are my favorite, but if it is a rust bucket needing piles of AMD metal, I maybe would go with the 70. Hard for any of us to tell you what to do since we can't physically look at the cars. But with what prices are doing, you will be ok on either of them.

 

[Runcharger]

4 speed R/T? Only thing better is multi carbs. Easy choice.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I say buy them both. Once home you can decide which one you want to build. Sell the other for a profit and money towards the keeper. 68's are my favorite, but if it is a rust bucket needing piles of AMD metal, I maybe would go with the 70. Hard for any of us to tell you what to do since we can't physically look at the cars. But with what prices are doing, you will be ok on either of them.

I’d be keeping both. The 68 belongs to a family member…he basically got me into mopar, muscle cars and drag racing. I remember seeing it in his garage years ago and helping him do some small things on it when I was like 15-16, so if I were able to buy it that would have a lot of sentimental value to me. I’m assuming he wants it to go to a good home where it will be taken care of if he sells.

Im going to see if the guy with the RT will still sell. I’d really like to have both chargers if possible. The mustang I’m selling (yeah, I know…but it’s an 03-04 cobra) will surely appreciate…but how long will you be able to find charger RT 4 speed barn/field finds?

 

[davek]

any updates,did you buy?

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

any updates,did you buy?

Working on it…

 

[velocityss1985]

The F440 1970 Block is probably worth 1500.00 or so. What is the date code on the block? If it was a six pack rotating assemble it would have the odd externally balanced harmonic balancer and the pistons would have the valve reliefs. Post the VIN of the block if you can. The 1970 aluminum 130 tooth 513 bellhousing goes for around 600-700 and a good set of date coded exhaust manifolds go for around 500-600. I hope this helps. Looks like a cool project.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

The F440 1970 Block is probably worth 1500.00 or so. What is the date code on the block? If it was a six pack rotating assemble it would have the odd externally balanced harmonic balancer and the pistons would have the valve reliefs. Post the VIN of the block if you can. The 1970 aluminum 130 tooth 513 bellhousing goes for around 600-700 and a good set of date coded exhaust manifolds go for around 500-600. I hope this helps. Looks like a cool project.

That helps. And yes, it’s a 70 date code 440 with six pack rods, external balancer and the non clearanced pistons. The 906 heads are 68 dated, but the rest should be 70.

Still waiting on the guy to decide. I have it lined up on my end.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

Well, looks like he’s thinking of keeping it again. I offered 30k for it, or 31k with his hooker headers he had bought for it. Told him to keep me in mind if anything changes.

 

[DeltaV]

Is he at least keeping it covered and protected from the weather?

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

Is he at least keeping it covered and protected from the weather?

Is he at least keeping it covered and protected from the weather?

Said it’s going to be covered or inside now…