Not if you deal with a reputable radiator shop, Kern. We would routinely send out radiators, where they would tank them and pressure-test them. If they were not good, we weren't charged. We would then tell the customer a replacement was required.
Maybe as a "sole" customer, yeah, I could see that. Back in the garage days, we were a usual customer so we only got charged for a rad that "passed". Unfortunately, a rad shop I'd used for many years since closed up. Seems those are few and far between anymore.
Back in the day after cleaning they would pull the top tank and run a rod down each tube. Last one I had done cost me $35 miss those days.
And sliced bread was $0.39 loaf and gasoline was $0.45/Gallon (high test).......welcome to reality.....
Reality is bread and gasoline are readily available but try to find a shop that rods out copper radiators.
The premier radiator supplier/repair facility is : GLEN-RAY
So what....the best is worth the wait and cost...just plan ahead...his warranty cannot be duplicated....
So how did you make out?
Not great but not horrible. I put in a Flowkooler water pump. It helped about 5 to 10 degrees but car still got up to 220 in traffic with AC on. That doesn’t sound any butter but it was getting up there before even before I got in traffic. Long story short I am buying a different radiator. I checked timing, etc to make sure there weren’t other issues. I am leaning towards a cold case brand radiator. I was hopeful that the water pump would would make a bigger difference but that’s ok.
I got a new fan clutch, 18” fan and factory shroud put in before I went the hi flow water pump rout. So not sure what I can rule out at this point other than biting the bullet and upgrading the radiator to an aluminum. I was able to find a receipt from the previous owner that showed he had the radiator (it’s a factory 26” radiator) gone through, pressure tested, etc, back in 2016 so I would think my current radiator is doing everything it can.
Rather than the "try this and if that doesn't work, try something else" syndrome, call:
I wound up purchasing an aluminum radiator.
I don’t think there is anything damaged with my current 26” radiator. As I noted previously, it’s been gone through, pressure tested, recored, etc by the previous owner (I have the receipt). I am not concerned with not having the factory radiator as my car is not numbers matching or anything. I would up going with an aluminum radiator. It’s supposed to be delivered the first part of next week. I am very optimistic that this will fix my issue. I will post an update as soon as I get it installed and tested. This is a good time to test as it has been around 100 degrees here in Oklahoma seemingly for the last couple weeks.
Have you tried to bleed the air out of the cooling system?
Bleeding air from the system only needs to be done once. After the t-stat opens for the first time, any entrapped air will be purged. Drilling a small hole (~ 1/8" diameter as everyone seems to recommend) in the t-stat valve plate/basket accomplishes nothing.....with the exception IF the head gasket is leaking allowing combustion byproducts to leak into the cooling system......then you need to replace the head gasket(s)......
