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The 71 Charger 500 becomes a SuperBee clone!

I don't have any. Not sure if the car is complete yet or if it is still under restoration? Never asked the guy who bought them. Sorry.
 
Thats ok thanx for getting back to me anyway. You made the right decision with the rally wheels on your car, much better. The tires did not seem to fill the wheelwell enough with the magnums on your car.
 
With the added amperage in the Alternator and the custom audio in the trunk, the factory gauges were not cutting it, so a B Body insert from Classic Dash and Auto Meter Ultra Lites in Purple back lit LED's is a great addition as well as a more reliable setup.

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Smaller slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch should save my leg and make pedal effort much better for that stop and go traffic!

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Nice looking Tiger Stripe Maple Pistol Grips. Much improved from the factory plastic. Nothing feels like wood!

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Even though I am short the N96 hood, I have always loved the N96 Air Cleaner. Big improvement!

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Will be adding an aluminum W/P housing with high flow W/P as well as a 4 core rad. The BIG 512 still has heating issues in stop and go traffic. Wanna tame this beast and keep it cool! Too much $ to just cook it! Enjoy!
 
Sitting in the dash now, just needs to be wired up. One step closer.

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I wish they made this dash molded off the original das as well so you can have one or the other! can't tell, did you get the carbon fiber one?
 
Reservoir for hydraulic clutch tucked in nice by the master cylinder. Changed from a 3/4" bore slave to a 5/8". Clutch pedal is much easier to push now! Finishing up for Mopar Madness in Saskatoon this weekend.

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- - - Updated - - -

4 core rad, 18" pusher on the front and dual 10" pullers in the back as well as an aluminum pump housing and a high flow pump should keep the big 512 chilling! still a little clearance between the pulley,
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So I have been mistaken for some time now. My Charger is a plain old Hardtop not a 500. WH23. OOPS, My bad !!!

Anyways, here is the new Wizard Cooling system. 4 9" Spal fans. Lots cool now!

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Interior back in. I am now sporting a 6 way adjustable seat base. Steering column is back from Ididit and 100% functional. Tranny is back in and clutch effort is AMAZING with the proper cylinder, clutch and pivot point. Now just wait till spring to drive my baby!

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I have a question, I'm doing a hydraulic system setup as well, I'll be running a dual 7/8" master/slave, do you have pics of how you mounted on the tranny? I have a couple ideas, just havent gotten that far yet, Here is what I did so far...


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When I moved my pivot point to give me a 4.7-1 ratio vs the 1.8-1 ratio they had set, I discovered that the 5/8" cylinder they had installed would not release the bearing enough. Reason being was that cylinder has a 1.4" travel. Having the pivot point where it needs to be only gives me a 1" travel. So I put the 3/4" cylinder back in because it has a 1" travel. Works like a charm. Pedal effort is easy as pie now. So it proves that pedal ratio plays a greater role than cylinder size.
Here is the photos I have right now.
I used a McLeod RST clutch and 1400 series bearing.
Mounted the reservoir up by master cylinder for the brakes.

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My Swiss cheese firewall, the way I found it when I started to make my own mods.

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So after some thought, I had my local machine shop with their fancy water jet machine cut me a plate using the steering column holes for support which strengthened everything up. I just had to fab up a card board template. As well I notched the top corner of the cylinder block so it clears the column bracket on the firewall.

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First test fit on the linkage shows that I had to use bolts with slimmer heads on them. Otherwise the clutch and the brake hit each other.

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I spent 3 hours re-wiring and routing wires over clutch and brake bracket. Frustrating, but well worth the time and effort. As well I moved the D/S vent cable and ran it through a hole in the clutch/brake bracket above pedals. This way it lined up perfect with the pivot on the vent. These details shouldn't be overlooked on build as you want to make things as safe and reliable as possible.

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After adding and subtracting washers to get my spacing correct. My travel is full through complete clutch pedal movement. The rod clears fine on both sides and the new bolts on the clutch eye and brake have a good 1/4" space between them now.

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Topped off the cylinder mount with round allen head screws, so there is no contact anywhere on the rod. I also put jam nuts at the end of the eye and both ends of the coupling link. Much safer now!

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Adjusted brake light switch and tied wires up nice. Now that is all you see for wires.

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very cool, thanks for the pics! will you be using a hydraulic throwout bearing for the transmission? or using a slave cylinder with the stock fork and throwout bearing in the tranny?
 
Interior back in. I am now sporting a 6 way adjustable seat base. Steering column is back from Ididit and 100% functional. Tranny is back in and clutch effort is AMAZING with the proper cylinder, clutch and pivot point. Now just wait till spring to drive my baby!


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How high does the 6 way raise the seat over stock and how do you like it?

also how easy is it to operate?
 
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