The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

[fullmetaljacket]

Reinventing the wheel. It all starts here with a slightly smaller all aluminum Grant GT wheel.
Stay tuned.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

The Grant wheel seen below was fetched for $5 at a clearance sale for irregular or blemished parts.
The only problem with it was that the studded grips on the hand ring were popping off, so it was on a super sale. It immediately became clear that it was a perfect experimental candidate for a stock looking lightweight steering wheel.

 

[Badvert65]

That Grant wheel looks good 'as is'. I didn't know that some wheels were made from aluminum. My (steel) Grant wheel is a 15 inch diameter one and weighs in at 2 1/2 pounds. That aluminum one must be only about a pound or so.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

There can be a whole extensive thread on this steering wheel alone, but it will be short here.

The hand rim was completely round with hand grip nipples as can be seen in this example below. So in order to have the factory looking finger grip indentations introduced, all the remaining nipples had to be removed first. They came off almost by hand leaving the stamp holes in their wake. Cheaply made with glue to hold them in LOL, but those stamp holes came to be of a great assistance.

A simple jig was cut out of plywood to a slightly oversized shape of the wheel ring to act as a stable jig in order to hold it down flat and prevent it from distorting when metal working the finger grip indentations, cutting and eventual welding.
Threaded J hooks with nuts were applied as the holding clamps.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Yes, they make them entirely in aluminum with different heights for the cross spokes or bridges as I like to call them. They weigh close to nothing. The one specked out is actually ever so close to the 16' circumference of the stocker and the rim OD is ever so slightly larger.
The one below is just one I pulled from the internet since I couldn't find my old photos yet and is porkier then the one in discussion.
The three spoked bridge here was temporarily left on the ring to act as a strengthening jig while the single spoked stock looking bridge was constructed nearby. I'll explain later.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Here you have a close up of the holes left over from the removal of the original hand grip nipples and the new semi finished stamped finger grip indentations.
These stampings were carefully and delicately done one at a time by hand by moving along the perimeter of the ring with a steel round stock bar and a rubber mallet.
Leaving the holes temporarily in their space was a two prong gift during the construction. 1: The holes provided a template guide for where to bang in the impression of the finger grips and 2: they also provided an escape hatch for the air pressure building up inside from the stamping and eventual welding. Once they were all formed, the holes were carefully and slowly welded closed keeping in mind that the hot gasses and temperature needed an escape route through each sequential hole. The last hole was a PITA with the pressure, but we finally got it plugged up and sanded smooth to the contour of the impression floor. Got it?

 

[fullmetaljacket]

This is an interesting picture because it shows the whole Frankenstein hilltop lab and creature on level ground.
Basically, the original three spoked bridge seen here was left on the ring until the incoming single bridge sitting above it could be marked and jigged up for welding into place.
The single bridge was leveled to the three spoke orientation and tack welding into place. This procedure was almost like restoring a convertible on a rotisserie with the doors removed. The three spokes acted as a strengthening gusset until the main bridge could take its place with exact and strong welds.
The plywood platform jig along with the mounted J hooks can also be seen here. It was just a thingamajig used to square up round things. LOL.
The J hooks helped the ring keeps its composure during many welding heat cycles. Bridge is made of 6061 T aluminum. More later.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

This is a few years ago now with both the bare stock wheel weighing in at 4-3/4 Lbs flanking the new bare and unfinished aluminum one weighing in at 1-1/4 Lbs. The single bridge probably makes up for the majority of the weight on the aluminum one.

At this point, the three legged spoke bridges were cut away and sanded clean leaving only the single bridge on its way to looking more like a stock wheel. Note that a hint of the weld bead from the original three spoke legs can still be seen on the ring just before it got filed and sanded off. If only the ring itself could be a hair thinner to match the stocker, but this was the only one that could be coursed at the time. It was probably feasible to have a hollow aluminum tube rolled and welded shut as a perfect round ring, but anxiousness always sets in.

The single bridge is just under 3/8 of an inch of 6061 aluminum flat stock shaped, cut and fit into place. There were a few ornamental details to the bridge that were later fabricated to make it look even thicker and more stock. It can be seen in detail in the next photo when it is found.

 

[Mopar John]

So moving down my weight loss list brings us to the brakes.
I had parted out several cars and had some 10 inch brake assemblies available.
This was back in 1998 before disc brakes really took off.
I had also decided that if 11 inch brakes would stop 3600 pounds
that 10 inch brakes would stop 3200 pounds!
The weight savings on doing all 4 was 40 pounds of rotating weight.
I did see a lower ET on this one!!
MJ

 

[Badvert65]

I have 10x2.5 inch drum brakes on the rear of my 65 Belvedere. I weighed some drums I had and this is what I came up with:

• Used smooth drum, w/spring: 13.4 pounds
• New smooth plain drum, no spring: 17.6 pounds
• New smooth plain drum turned to the max: 17 pounds
• Used finned drum: 12 pounds (too worn to be turned)
• New finned drum: 19.8 pounds

I am actively looking for aluminum wheel cylinders that will fit the factory brakes. A nice example for comparison is:

• New cast iron ¾ inch bore wheel cylinder: 1.225 pounds
• New Aluminum ¾ inch bore cylinder: 0.5125 pounds

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I have 10x2.5 inch drum brakes on the rear of my 65 Belvedere. I weighed some drums I had and this is what I came up with:

• Used smooth drum, w/spring: 13.4 pounds
• New smooth plain drum, no spring: 17.6 pounds
• New smooth plain drum turned to the max: 17 pounds
• Used finned drum: 12 pounds (too worn to be turned)
• New finned drum: 19.8 pounds

I am actively looking for aluminum wheel cylinders that will fit the factory brakes. A nice example for comparison is:

• New cast iron ¾ inch bore wheel cylinder: 1.225 pounds
• New Aluminum ¾ inch bore cylinder: 0.5125 pounds

The smooth drum without the vibration springs are the lightest. Finned types have more surface with the cooling fins thus more weight. Four smooth drums here and it stops just right. Street driving manners reflect what any kind of brake can handle and take. At the track, use the very last turnoff and just tap on the brakes a few times on the way there.

Badvert. Let us know if you find aluminum stand in brake cylinders. That would be a gem. An idea has been revolving around using GM aluminum drums on the rear. I'll elaborate on that later when I compose all the parts.

 

[Badvert65]

I have purchased about a dozen aluminum wheel cylinders so far, but none have been even close to being a bolt in replacement. The search continues. I have also been looking for aluminum brake drums. I bought a cast iron version of the GM aluminum brake drum to use for sizing and fitting but from what I can tell, you would have to use the entire GM brake assembly, backing plate to drum. I am sure it could be retrofitted, but I am determined to find an alternative.

 

[Cranky]

I have 10x2.5 inch drum brakes on the rear of my 65 Belvedere. I weighed some drums I had and this is what I came up with:

• Used smooth drum, w/spring: 13.4 pounds
• New smooth plain drum, no spring: 17.6 pounds
• New smooth plain drum turned to the max: 17 pounds
• Used finned drum: 12 pounds (too worn to be turned)
• New finned drum: 19.8 pounds

I am actively looking for aluminum wheel cylinders that will fit the factory brakes. A nice example for comparison is:

• New cast iron ¾ inch bore wheel cylinder: 1.225 pounds
• New Aluminum ¾ inch bore cylinder: 0.5125 pounds

How worn was your finned drum? Before I stuck in an 8 3/4 rear into my high horse power /6 car (ha), the 10x1.5" drums 7 1/4 rear were grooved pretty badly and there wasn't any 1.5 drums to be had so I turned them myself to the tune of .100"! There were still grooves showing....so stuck them on with new shoes. Odd how I was able to find the tiny shoes and not the drums but anyways, they tested fine. Figured if the grooves wasn't the breaking point, then taking out .100 wasn't going to be a problem either and they weren't.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I have purchased about a dozen aluminum wheel cylinders so far, but none have been even close to being a bolt in replacement. The search continues. I have also been looking for aluminum brake drums. I bought a cast iron version of the GM aluminum brake drum to use for sizing and fitting but from what I can tell, you would have to use the entire GM brake assembly, backing plate to drum. I am sure it could be retrofitted, but I am determined to find an alternative.

Yes you have to use the entire GM brake set up and GM axle stud pattern along with GM pattern wheels if aftermarket wheels are to be used. This is of course only from a starting point where a new rear differential is being constructed. Might as have a lighter setup to begin with. In a nutshell, build a differential drum to drum as if it's for a GM, but bolts into the Mopar spring perch system instead. Probably can get the axles much cheaper being that it's for a GM and everyone makes them.
I'm gonna have another talk with (Cass) Dr. Diff about the set up and reflect back here. When I mentioned it to him years back, he was floored at the idea but didn't think it was worth the change over for the few pounds, but you know the madness. Why not when starting from scratch.

 

[Badvert65]

It looks like there is room to redrill the aluminum drum with a 4.5 inch Mopar pattern and then 'ream' out the register to fit the Mopar axle.
I could be wrong.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

It looks like there is room to redrill the aluminum drum with a 4.5 inch Mopar pattern and then 'ream' out the register to fit the Mopar axle.
I could be wrong.

I gave that some thought a while ago and deemed it risky of not drilling in a perfect circle of holes. It has to be perfect to not create vibrations and most importantly, cracks in the drum. What would be interesting is to see what GM brake assemblies, backing plates, shoes, etc weigh compared to Mopars. Might be surprising.

Wish Mopar made aluminum backing plates. This is of course based on an unconfirmed Mother Mopar making aluminum backing plates for the 1968 SS Hemi LO23 Darts and BO29 Cuda's. Never seen any.

I run a GM style 140 amp one wire alternator up front and it weighs three pounds less then my old 35 amp Mopar unit. It was a win, win situation, but taboo to many. I guess that's why I don't pop the hood anymore. LOL.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Main single bridge while being measured and marked for drilling and cutting. Note the nipple holes are mostly welded shut and smoothed out to the contour with the finger impregnations.

 

[Badvert65]

I gave that some thought a while ago and deemed it risky of not drilling in a perfect circle of holes.

Yeah, I was going to just 'elongate' the existing holes as there is only 1/4 inch difference in diameter, which means that the slot needs to be 1/8 inch 'longer'.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Yeah, I was going to just 'elongate' the existing holes as there is only 1/4 inch difference in diameter, which means that the slot needs to be 1/8 inch 'longer'.

Yeah, Just something I wouldn't want to throw off balance.
Talking about brakes and such, I've heard and read through the years that some of the AFX guys either removed the front brakes all together especially when running a straight axle or installed A-body 9" drums and assembly for weight loss. Crazy, but then again those were full on race cars.

 

[Badvert65]

I agree, that is why I still have the factory 10x2 1/2 drums on the rear.