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Thoughts on my main bearings

jenkins71

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HI Guys,

Today I pulled the main bearings off my 440. I am doing a re-ring job, and probably a re-bearing job. Can anyone provide any commentary on these pictures of my main bearings? Does the wear look normal?
Thanks for any input and/or commentary!

#1
E9CBD55A-1F71-4281-B6D8-B08052B36E04_zpswa1wgpmw.jpg



#2
E47B94EB-AB1A-4C1D-8AAE-58BC8B418D4F_zpsa0xd6pon.jpg



#3
FB1E795F-C057-4120-A74C-4D9F6681F1B3_zpsfjo2bhu6.jpg



#4
4EEE9938-1448-48C1-A25D-1AAC35341722_zpsdy63l5lo.jpg



#5
C82C4BDF-14DE-49E2-B1F8-08A942009343_zps36gt1hea.jpg
 
unsure.... the motor was rebuilt in the early 2000's, but not driven much. The previous owner is deceased so I don't have a ton of info here.
If it tells you anything about mileage, I did check the taper on the bores (.030 over) and it was well within spec. Cross hatch is still visible and the ridge at the top of the cylinder is minimal (won't catch a fingernail on it)
Thanks!!
Sam
 
i would deff have your crank and main journals in the block looked at very closely by a machine shop
 
Wear looks OK to me, but I would never re-use old bearings.

I would have the crank journals measured, and if OK have them polished and fit new bearings.

(At least your shells were put in right way around. I new something was amiss when I pulled mine down, removed two of the 5 main caps and they had the shells fitted with the oil feed holes - meaning the oil feed holes in the block were blocked off...)
see -P1010505.jpgP1010508.jpg
 
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Yeah, I'm definitely going to change them. I was just unsure if the wear looked normal as this is my first engine build.
Thanks!
 
Yeah, I'm definitely going to change them. I was just unsure if the wear looked normal as this is my first engine build.
Thanks!

First engine build, and on a 440, no less?! That's cool, good luck. You're at the right place to ask any questions you might have...
 
your down to the copper overlay on some of those bearings, which isn't good. mic the crank and see if the journals get progressive smaller in each direction from the #3 main. i think the crank is getting crooked in the bores. another thing that can cause that wear is studs. studs are a little larger in o.d. than bolts plus they wobble. they can cause the cap to sit crooked in block registers.
 
Are we looking at #1 to #5 top pic to bottom? Either way, it's #2 and #4 that are coppered. What does the upper half bearing look like on those journals? #3 is great but #1 and #5 are beginning to show signs of the same wear pattern as #2 and #4. My initial thought is the caps are not registering properly in the block or the bore is not round so you may want to have the bearing bores checked or just align hone the block. Regarding the cap registers, it should be difficult to remove them from the block. I.E. they shouldn't just fall out or lift off without a bit of wiggling.

To 62 Dart.......OUCH!! Luckily they didn't spin.
 
There is definitely an out of line issue there. Even if all the bearings were showing copper, they should show equal wear perpendicular to the connecting rod. I think an align check and or hone is in order.
 
I'm with Meep and 68chicken. Have a good machine shop check the crank and align hone the block. Rather be safe than sorry, especially with low miles on the motor.
 
showing copper means the babbit is wiped off. there isn't signs of high mileage or dirt wear. i went thru this last spring. align hone may not be necessary. dial bore gauge the bores, mic the crank and check it for straightness.
 
showing copper means the babbit is wiped off. there isn't signs of high mileage or dirt wear. i went thru this last spring. align hone may not be necessary. dial bore gauge the bores, mic the crank and check it for straightness.


I agree 100%

Can be either block or crank or both... but it is one of them for sure.
 
Hey guys--
Just spoke with the head guy at a machine shop near where I'm at. I went there to talk to him about some work I was thinking about doing to my block, and while I was there I showed him these pictures of my bushings. He wasn't too shocked... He said that when he would do any work on my block he could check the alignment first regardless, just to make sure his other measurements would be accurate.
He also claimed that it could be from fuel contaminating the oil due to the fact that this car was at the race track often. Another thought of his was that the caps could have been mis-torqued.

- - - Updated - - -

So, I guess we will see when he gets his hands on my block and check the alignment, and we will go from there.

- - - Updated - - -

Are we looking at #1 to #5 top pic to bottom? Either way, it's #2 and #4 that are coppered. What does the upper half bearing look like on those journals? #3 is great but #1 and #5 are beginning to show signs of the same wear pattern as #2 and #4. My initial thought is the caps are not registering properly in the block or the bore is not round so you may want to have the bearing bores checked or just align hone the block. Regarding the cap registers, it should be difficult to remove them from the block. I.E. they shouldn't just fall out or lift off without a bit of wiggling.

To 62 Dart.......OUCH!! Luckily they didn't spin.

Yes, the caps were very difficult to remove. I had to hit them with a hammer and twist and pull back and forth to finally get them to come off.

And yup, #1 to #5 in the pictures.
 
I must apologise for not seeing those shells were worn thru to copper - it was after midnight here and perhaps I need my eyes checked!:icon_cyclops_ani:
 
showing copper means the babbit is wiped off. there isn't signs of high mileage or dirt wear. i went thru this last spring. align hone may not be necessary. dial bore gauge the bores, mic the crank and check it for straightness.

What I don't like is the skewed wear pattern.
 
Yeah its a bit skewed for sure. I was surprised when the engine builder didn't seem too shocked by it.
 
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