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Thurust bearing taken out on new build. Help

It would be interesting to know if another converter ordered from that same company is the same or if that converter is a defect and you are compensating for it.
If you machine the crank with a deeper counterbore will that still work for others converters that would have worked?
What is the clearance spec to allow for any ballooning?
If someone is “checking” the fit, what should that be? The converter penetrates into the crank and has clearance in the counterbore?

This coming from a manual guy and has a 340 automatic ready to assemble in the near future. I’d like to know my converter will not cause any problems and want to know how to check that.

I think that you would agree that this solution is only because this particular person had the engine removed and disassembled. Otherwise it’s back to the vendor and get a replacement.
 
As both the converter and the crank are aftermarket I don't know which is out of spec and I don't have access to enough parts to try and work it out.
If I had to guess I would say crankshaft.
The job now is to make what the owner has work together.
I will bore the crank deeper - that will work with any converter.
Converter ballooning is a different issue than this. From what I know and basically means your converter has structurally failed and is a fast track to transmission destruction. I have never heard of any clearance that could allow for it.
Concerning the issue at hand 20 thousands minimum extra depth in the counterbore should be OK.
 
What procedure would you use to check that clearance?

Would you attach the flex plate and converter and then check for clearance after they are mounted?

Or would you use a depth gauge in the counterbore and compare with the converter height?
 
With the flex plate bolted up. Then the converter should slide right up flush with mounting tabs flush to the flex plate. If not check diameter and chamfer on the converters snout. Check flex plate bolt head thickness. These issues have fixed every one of the problems I’ve seen. Never had a crank that wasn’t machined deep enough. You can machine the bolt heads. You can grind more chamfer. Or flap disc the crank hole. I’ve seen converter snouts vary .010” in diameter.
Doug
 
With the flex plate bolted up. Then the converter should slide right up flush with mounting tabs flush to the flex plate. If not check diameter and chamfer on the converters snout. Check flex plate bolt head thickness. These issues have fixed every one of the problems I’ve seen. Never had a crank that wasn’t machined deep enough. You can machine the bolt heads. You can grind more chamfer. Or flap disc the crank hole. I’ve seen converter snouts vary .010” in diameter.
Doug

Thank you for the explanation and remedies.
I’ve never had to replace a torque converter and always had Chrysler original parts in the past.
Now I have a 340 waiting to drop in one day with a replacement converter. The transmission builder did mention making sure the torque converter is properly installed in the transmission but did not mention checking the converter on the bolted flex plate.
This will be on my check list for sure. I don’t want to bolt it up and then find out. I’m sure others will benefit from this mishap.
 
When installing the converter will have clearance after the transmission is bolted up if not fix before starting
 
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