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Tranny bellhousing snaped in half!

I had a 4-speed alu bellhousing split once while driving on the street, danged long pistol grip shifter about beat me silly before I got the car stopped.
 
Got a Mate over Here with a 65 Sat 383 shatter a 727 exactly the same....put it down to 40yr old aluminium brittleness...

and at 12sec 1/4
 
Man, you're lucky that could have been really bad.

Could it be possible the trans was on a bind? Did the trans bolt up smoothly when you put it in? (I'm just grasping at straws)
 
Just spit-balling here... If your running solid mounts on the motor, make sure to use a rubber or poly mount on the trans tail shaft the body will flex & brake the trans if solid mounted on all 3 spots... Unless you have a motor plate & a mid-plate & full cage with bars going forwards to keep the body from over flexing... A set of frame connectors, safety loop shield, rool bar/cage & quality aftermarket SFI rated bell housing, I think ATI & S&W sells them for the 727 Torqueflite, probably others also... All the safety stuff, would be a god idea, if you going into the 10's...
 
Grenade/Boom

Pull the pin count to 10 & duck... Look familiar...
 
Check your driveshaft length...if there is not enough play ( shaft too long) it will cause this
 
Check your driveshaft length...if there is not enough play ( shaft too long) it will cause this
That didn't even cross my mind but a buddy of mine messed up his 4 speed because of that. It didn't break the bell but it sure messed up the internals. He swapped a Dana 60 into his Super Bee and didn't swap out or shorten the shaft any. It was really close but had very little forward movement and whenever he jumped on it, it would bind it up but he didn't know that was happening until the trans started yelling at him after a couple of months.
 
Too long of a drive shaft usually takes the tail shaft out. I wouldn't think it would take the case out like that, but anything thing is possible.
It's almost like somthing was out of alignment or on a bind.

Or possibly the case was cracked and no one seen it.
 
Definately not too long on driveshaft.... I have always been a little concerned about it being on the short side with the S/S Springs and new front hangers.
 
The trans was purchased by someone else from a trans shop. They didn't use it and it sat for several years, so I bought it from him... It had 0 miles on the re-build???? It seemed to go in smoothly,,,, no binding that I noticed.... I never draw one side of something in then go to the other,,,, always a little tightening at a time criss crossing,,, going back and forth from side to side..... Just typical good practice stuff.....
I'll have it out this weekend, so maybe that will shine some light on the matter...
 
Just spit-balling here... If your running solid mounts on the motor, make sure to use a rubber or poly mount on the trans tail shaft the body will flex & brake the trans if solid mounted on all 3 spots... Unless you have a motor plate & a mid-plate & full cage with bars going forwards to keep the body from over flexing... A set of frame connectors, safety loop shield, rool bar/cage & quality aftermarket SFI rated bell housing, I think ATI & S&W sells them for the 727 Torqueflite, probably others also... All the safety stuff, would be a god idea, if you going into the 10's...

Yep,,, your exactly right! It's time to start making things tougher, safer, reliable..... I know it has more in it too,,, this run wasn't the best it could do!
It spun taking off,,,, I didn't get as high as I like on the converter before taking off,,, the timing isn't perfect yet,,, The carb is too small,,, had full exhaust on.... The list goes on for items that will / can be improved on. It needs to be reliable though, and it takes the items you mentioned to do this.... Parts will be made / ordered next.
 
Sorry to see the bad luck.Had a similar problem when the starter came loose.It wedge between the starter ring and the housing some how and blew the housing apart on the driver side.I inspected the trans and fond nothing wrong.I bought JW bellhousing and bolted to the front pump area.Been racing the same trans on and off for ten years.
 
Sorry to see the bad luck.Had a similar problem when the starter came loose.It wedge between the starter ring and the housing some how and blew the housing apart on the driver side.I inspected the trans and fond nothing wrong.I bought JW bellhousing and bolted to the front pump area.Been racing the same trans on and off for ten years.

I've been wondering about the removable bell-housing deal for a while now!
How the hell does that all work out? Does it take a lot of custom machining to the tranny to fit an aftermarket bellhousing? :notworthy:
 
No custom machining.You just cut the bell housing flush with the pump housing.The new bell housing bolts to the front pump housing bolts.The housings are also SFI approved.It took about two hours to install.I spent more time inspecting the trans.
 
I've been wondering about the removable bell-housing deal for a while now!
How the hell does that all work out? Does it take a lot of custom machining to the tranny to fit an aftermarket bellhousing? :notworthy:

J.W. Performance Ultra Bell SFI rated 727 trans bell housing works well, I didn't do my own, I had a machinist friend do mine, but it could be done at home with the right tools & knowledge... , www.racewithjw.com
 
Well, here ya have it!
 

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