Trans-go Shift Reprogramming Kits TF-1 vs TF-2? Pushbutton Trans Questions

[Evan Frucht]

I think I need a rebuild done on my 1964 pushbutton 727 trans.

my questions are:

Can anyone tell me more about there experience with trans-go reprograming kits, specifically the TR-1 and the TR-2. why would you pick one over the other

I'm used to a manual trans and have rarely ever drove an automatic

What exactly is a hard "race shift," what does it feel like, some people say it gets annoying, why would that be?

I want the car to feel performance oriented and be sort of a mild street rod. I want good hard acceleration.
​

The car has no crazy upgrades to the engine at the moment. It's a 318, 4 barrel, dual exhaust, mild reground cam.

also, will the trans-go reprogramming shift kits even work in the earlier style pushbutton 727?

What about performance torque converters ? any thought on those and if they would be appropriate for my application … really have no idea here

Thanks, Evan

 

[Bad Sport]

I want the car to feel performance oriented and be sort of a mild street rod. I want good hard acceleration.

I would suggest the TF-2 in that case.

What about performance torque converters ? any thought on those and if they would be appropriate for my application … really have no idea here

Do you have a performance engine?

If so, then a proper converter is an essential part of the combo. I would suggest one built specifically for your engine/car specs and intended driving style.

 

[Evan Frucht]

I would suggest the TF-2 in that case.



Do you have a performance engine?

If so, then a proper converter is an essential part of the combo. I would suggest one built specifically for your engine/car specs and intended driving style.

Thanks,

I'm still not sure if they will work in 64 and earlier pushbutton style 727 but in the case that they will...

I was leaning toward a TF-2 but I wasn't sure if it would too harsh, someone mentioned it might get annoying to drive with a shift kit but I don't think they necessarily had experience with these specific ones, and was just talking generally. Also, people have different preferences.

I plan to drive this car often in the city with an occasional 50+ mile drives/trips on highways etc. I don't want the shifts the be extremely jarring or anything, I want hard shifts but don't want to detract from reliability or drivability.

The car has its original 318, PO had it rebuilt and told me they did a mild re-grind on the cam, the car has 4 barrel intake/carb, and I've put a dual 2.5 in exhaust in it.

So, I wouldn't call it a performance engine but it has few upgrades.

Probably don't need a fancy converter but was curious about what a high stall converter does... probably not appropriate for my car but wanted to know what they do exactly.​

 

[33 IMP]

I had a 55 Chevy with a 396/turbo 400 combo with a competition shift in it. It was awful. Every 1-2 Shift it chirped the tires, and the slapper bars whacked the springs hard enough to jar the whole car. Even driven mildly, it tortured everything in the drivetrain from the trans back. It even snapped the wheel studs on the right rear, and the wheel fell off.
On the other hand, my mopars have reverse pattern full manual valve bodies. With a good converter, they can be shifted early ( under stall speed) and drive like a kitten, but chirp tires when you want, just make the shift later. The 55 still had automatic shifting that happened late (higher rpm) that made ALL shifts harsh.

 

[33 IMP]

You still have a pushbutton trans, which has a different input size than later torqflites. Stall converters are hard to get for pb trans I think. Ask your rebuilder about changing the input to the later size.
A good stall converter can make a world of difference, a bad one can be a miserable experience. A good 3000 converter can drive like a stocker, but give double the power when you stand on it off the line, or across the crosswalk.
I had a bad one once, a ger brand, thankfully long gone. It didn't care what gear I was in, or how much throttle I gave it, it was going down the road at 3500 rpm.
DON'T waste money on a cheap converter.

 

[Evan Frucht]

You still have a pushbutton trans, which has a different input size than later torqflites. Stall converters are hard to get for pb trans I think. Ask your rebuilder about changing the input to the later size.
A good stall converter can make a world of difference, a bad one can be a miserable experience. A good 3000 converter can drive like a stocker, but give double the power when you stand on it off the line, or across the crosswalk.
I had a bad one once, a ger brand, thankfully long gone. It didn't care what gear I was in, or how much throttle I gave it, it was going down the road at 3500 rpm.
DON'T waste money on a cheap converter.

the rebuilder I think I'm going with mentioned they would probably rebuild the stock converter, what would the pros and cons of that route be?

 

[dvw]

The input shaft and reaction support (67-70) can be swapped so a newer converter can work. The TF 2 kit is very popular fits 1960 and newer.
Doug

 

[Evan Frucht]

The input shaft and reaction support (67-70) can be swapped so a newer converter can work. The TF 2 kit is very popular fits 1960 and newer.
Doug

Thanks, I'm still a little confused as to what to expect going with the TF-2. How much "driver comfort" is sacrificed? How would you compare it to the way a stock 727 shifts.

 

[oldbee]

It will shift much better believe me. With what you have, don’t go with a full manual valve body; it’ll feel like the whole drivetrain is gonna fall on the road(especially 1-2).

 

[Evan Frucht]

It will shift much better believe me. With what you have, don’t go with a full manual valve body; it’ll feel like the whole drivetrain is gonna fall on the road(especially 1-2).

So you would recommend the TF-2 kit? I'm not sure if it's a full manual valve body or not?

 

[oldbee]

TF-2 definitely.

 

[Evan Frucht]

TF-2 definitely.

OK thanks that helps a lot.

not sure if you would know but is there anything I should tell the trans builder as far as how to install the kit exactly. I've been reading a bunch online and it seems everyone installs it a little different. (Something about a check ball valve, and either leaving it in or removing it, and making modifications by grinding the vb down in a spot, or not)

 

[oldbee]

Go as far as you can. Dvw(Doug) is the expert on 727’s. IMHO a full manual is just too much of a headache for round town, fun for awhile.

 

[MoparLeo]

Is the whole premis being that you are sticking to the pushbutton for looks ? To be original ? Life would be much easier with a post 1971 727. Some back round info for the 727.
https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html

 

[Evan Frucht]

Is the whole premis being that you are sticking to the pushbutton for looks ? To be original ? Life would be much easier with a post 1971 727. Some back round info for the 727.
https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html

Yes, considering it's a pushbutton car, if I stick with an automatic transmission I would want it to be push button, that's sort of the only thing I think is cool about it being an automatic car is the push button controls. If I was gonna swap the transmission I would probably want to put a 4 speed manual in it.

Just curious, Why is life easier with the later trans? Specifically what would be better?

 

[dvw]

There are very little difference between a push button and and a later trans. As stated earlier the input and reaction shaft. Other than that the valve body , case, output shaft. All the rotating internals swap up to 1976. Mine run 71 and up wide bushing pump and reaction shaft. But that requires a front drum swap to 71 and up as well. Not necessary in this case.
Doug

 

[Dipstick]

Thanks, I'm still a little confused as to what to expect going with the TF-2. How much "driver comfort" is sacrificed? How would you compare it to the way a stock 727 shifts.

The TF-2 kit allows you to configure the firmness of the shifts, read the instructions.

 

[Evan Frucht]

The TF-2 kit allows you to configure the firmness of the shifts, read the instructions.

do you know where I can find a copy of the instructions online?

 

[dvw]

Here you go

 

[Evan Frucht]

ok, ill watch that video. I'm not gonna be installing it myself so ill have to explain my desired outcome to the trans builder. I was just curious what the directions say so that I could maybe read over them and to figure out how I want him to install the kit for me. from what I understand there are optional things you can do/ or not do when installing the kit.

I don't want uncomfortably hard shifts that feel like the car will fall apart, but I do want them quick, and I want a performance feel. I don't care for having a smooth comfortable shift but I don't want it to get annoying or anything, or chirp the tires when I'm trying to drive modestly. I wouldn't mind it chirping the tires and shifting real hard, on demand, when I want to give it some extra throttle.

The car is only putting out about 250 hp I would guess, maybe more but I doubt it. So its not really a performance car, but I'd like it to feel like a hot rod.
I don't think I'll ever take it to the track or anything like that
Just a street rod/sleeper kind of thing
I may turn it into my new daily driver, so I plan to drive it a lot