Trans-go Shift Reprogramming Kits TF-1 vs TF-2? Pushbutton Trans Questions
- Thread starter Evan Frucht
- Start date
justcruisin
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure what the latest instructions call for, the last time I installed a TF2 was 2015, I was recommend not to following the instructions in regard to removing ball "B" makes for a very harsh 1-2 shift, I just made the drilling 1/8" and left the ball in, otherwise the instructions are great.
Evan Frucht
Well-Known Member
Thank you I was reading a bunch of posts on the TF-2 but I was having trouble making sense of all of it. Thanks for simplifying it. I will let the trans builder know about what I've read and see what he says. I think the ball should stay in, now I remember reading things where it seemed people complained about the effect of removing ball.
Evan Frucht
Well-Known Member
I'll update this thread with the results I get. Thanks everyone for the insight and help !
Dipstick
Well-Known Member
I agree, I was disappointed to see that the latest instructions (they have changed the instructions about a dozen times over the years) says to omit the ball.
The TF-2 allows the shift firmness to be set by the user(builder) as stated before. It's more of a modification program than, 'bolt this kit in and it will shift like XYZ' so your installer needs to have your desired performance in mind before starting. I went with the TF2 set to the milder side. Good snappy shifts, and firmer under full throttle but I did not want it chirping tires during normal driving. Working well for my car..
I have a '63 Plymouth with a fairly tricked up poly now. The trans has been a hit & miss thing for my satisfaction as the older 727s differ from later notably downshifting. For our vintage 727, downshifting requires full throttle as opposed to 'on demand' later ones have. The shift points are very quick (1st to 3rd around 25-30MPH) under normal throttle unless opening it up that irritates me; but I gather there are mod's that can be made. I put in a B&M kit several years ago that gave a firmer shift. As I recall there were three 'settings' from mild to race and I split that in the middle. Under hard throttle it's great with a hefty break of rubber between 1st and 2nd. With my motor rebuild, a late model TC was installed that I think could be a mistake as it is too sluggish off the line in my opin. At least far as I can say...that ain't much. I'm not familiar with the TF2 and difference if any from a shift kit like I had put in. I'll have to read up on it...
As a repeat, when I was way younger; a ‘full manual ‘ valve body was just “cool” but way too much for street driving. IMHO is just felt&sounded like the driveshaft was gonna be down on the pavement.
justcruisin
Well-Known Member
Only other thing I can think of off my head to add is that it is a good idea to tap a thread into the high gear feed hole in the case so that a bung with a hole through it can be fitted. This will give you another option of adjustaibility for the 2 - 3 shift rather that using the fixed orifice plug supplied in the TF2 kit. Drop the valve body and change out the bung to slow or speed up the engagement of the high gear clutch pack in-case of flare up on the 2-3 shift or having the kick down band and high gear clutch engaged at the same time.
Dipstick
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="Ron H, post: 911173945, member: 24335] The shift points are very quick (1st to 3rd around 25-30MPH) under normal throttle unless opening it up that irritates me; but I gather there are mod's that can be made. in. [/QUOTE]
25-30 mph is actually later than the factory spec which has the transmission in 3rd below 20 mph. Linkage adjustment can raise the upshift speeds at "normal throttle".
25-30 mph is actually later than the factory spec which has the transmission in 3rd below 20 mph. Linkage adjustment can raise the upshift speeds at "normal throttle".
Evan Frucht
Well-Known Member
Went to the trans shop yesterday talked with the guy for a while to talk about what will be done. He's gonna install the tf-2 shift kit on the milder side (he said you can always go firmer that way, but not the other way around... basically the kit is irreversible). He also had a solid front band in stock which he said is extra heavy duty and went on hemi cars, he advised I go with that heavy duty band vs regular. He said with the firmer shifts you get from TF-2, the stock type bands are prone to fail. So he's putting a solid one on for me. Everything else is basically gonna be stock rebuild. Hope it all goes well! he said it should be done by the end of next week.
25-30 mph is actually later than the factory spec which has the transmission in 3rd below 20 mph. Linkage adjustment can raise the upshift speeds at "normal throttle".[/QUOTE]
You're correct. I accomplished a bit of delay by setting the kick rod as long as I could make it.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
The TF-2 and B&M Trans Pack both modify the transmission in almost exactly the same way. I haven't used a B&M kit in a long time because I think the TF-2 is less expensive. The TF-2 did change a few things from the older setup 20 years ago, so it is more up to date, and no longer wants the hole drilled in the pressure valve area. I think it was the "Pump in Park" modification? I think the new design of the pressure regulator spring with the shim may be fixing this without having to drill the valve body at that location.
The TF-1 kit is basically a TF-2 with some of the performance parts missing. What I'm trying to say is the TF-2 can be used the same as the TF-1 by just following the instructions for the HD or RV modifications, but it also has the parts if you want to have the harder shifts of the performance or race setup.
The '66 and earlier input shaft is 19-spline, and later 67-up are 24 spline. Most aftermarket converters are for the 24-spline input shaft unless you can get a custom 19-spline performance converter?
I just converted a '66 trans, and there are a few parts you might need.
There are 3 different front pump stator supports. The '66 and earlier only fit the 19-spline input shaft that is slightly smaller diameter where the seals are in the support, and uses the narrow bushing front drum. The '67-70 support also uses the narrow bushing front drum, but has the larger input shaft seal diameter for the 24-spline input shaft. The '71-up support has accepts the larger 24-spline input shaft, but uses the wide bushing front drum.
On the '66 trans we converted, we decided to use the '71-up support as all the aftermarket billet drums are the wide bushing type, so the trans would be ready if the owner decides to change out the drum. For cost reasons we used a reconditioned stock 4-clutch 71-up drum.
Although the input shafts can be pressed out and presses back in to the rear drum, it is easier to just use the rear drum that has the 24-spline input shaft, and I think, if using the narrow bushing drum, the input shaft needs to be a '67-70 that has the two sealing rings. I think the later '71-up (or maybe it is on later models?) had a third larger sealing ring, and I think might need to use the '71-up drum? (I'm not real sure on this interchangeability, a trans expert might add more info.)
451Mopar, ya sound pretty well up on this stuff! I put a B&M in maybe 10-12 years ago already and my memory is foggy adding my older age now. Had the valve body out and remember drilling the hole and such setting it up to a mid-range for firmer shift that I got after doing the job. The kick rod was set far as it could go and got a little delay in shift also as I wanted. Of course, there's only so much to be accomplished here unless more radical work is done. Now the motor has been rebuilt with all sorts of tricked up stuff plus headers. Some car work I used to do has become a real bitch given my older body. Wish I'd a built my garage to allow a hoist; all whining aside. I was wondering what added features the TF2 might offer that the B&M didn't as I think my trans and motor are no longer a good 'couple'. Unless I'm missing something on my comprehension, there's not a lot of difference in terms of what the TF2 does besides some improved techniques to do the install. After the motor redo it's a friggin mystery...what I mean is off the line, something feels amiss like something is holding back for better pop off the line. Almost feels like the brakes aren't releasing (they are). My pondering has me guessing the TC put in is for crap with the rebuild.
Evan Frucht
Well-Known Member
I'm am no expert on this trans stuff whatsoever but from recent reading, and what you describe, it sounds like you might be happier with a higher stall converter.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
what 451 said
I would only get the TF-2
I had one in each 59 and 65 Imperials you can dial in how they shift
I'd update the front pump to the later style if I was going to rebuild the tranny
you can install the kit yourself
the filter is different for the early trans with the rear pump Transgo can fix you up with a nice brass screen one
call Dave at Transgo with any specific questions
B&M raised the line pressure too much but not as much as Art Carr
you get more durability with Transgo
hard shifts break parts it's a dance between the band and the clutches which has to be right
Gil younger had the patent on the check your fluid in park, full flow etc but it ran out years ago and everyone else copied
the kit has been changed several times over the years
we used to have to file the valve body with a big file and drill holes- it's easier now
you can use any fluid except type F but 4+ is an excellent fluid even without a lock up converter it has a rigid spec and Mom Mopar requires a specific additive package
There is no control on DEX below VI anymore and the Type A for the Early trans has not been available for years
I would only get the TF-2
I had one in each 59 and 65 Imperials you can dial in how they shift
I'd update the front pump to the later style if I was going to rebuild the tranny
you can install the kit yourself
the filter is different for the early trans with the rear pump Transgo can fix you up with a nice brass screen one
call Dave at Transgo with any specific questions
B&M raised the line pressure too much but not as much as Art Carr
you get more durability with Transgo
hard shifts break parts it's a dance between the band and the clutches which has to be right
Gil younger had the patent on the check your fluid in park, full flow etc but it ran out years ago and everyone else copied
the kit has been changed several times over the years
we used to have to file the valve body with a big file and drill holes- it's easier now
you can use any fluid except type F but 4+ is an excellent fluid even without a lock up converter it has a rigid spec and Mom Mopar requires a specific additive package
There is no control on DEX below VI anymore and the Type A for the Early trans has not been available for years
Dipstick
Well-Known Member
The third ring came along in '78 for the lockup converter.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
Let me dig out the old B&M TransPack and "new" TransGo TF-2 instructions for comparison. I know where they are.
I might still have FT-1 instructions if I can find them.
I lost (I think it got "borrowed"?) my "old" version of the TF-2 instructions that had the large 1:1 scale valvebody foldout diagram.
Anyone have a copy of the old TF-2 instructions? It is a good valvebody reference.
I might still have FT-1 instructions if I can find them.
I lost (I think it got "borrowed"?) my "old" version of the TF-2 instructions that had the large 1:1 scale valvebody foldout diagram.
Anyone have a copy of the old TF-2 instructions? It is a good valvebody reference.
I ran into a guy at a car show that seems to be a walking Britannica on older mopars and especially old cable shift 727's (pre-'65). He enlightened me greatly as to what's available on upgrading these to more modern function like part throttle kickdown and even application of keeping the button shift on later 727's. He directed me to an outfit in Indiana A+A transmission though I kept getting A&A. Anyway, I've included a link here to the 'kit' I think he was talking about. Given the discussion on this thread, has anyone done this installation and if so, how'd this work out?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torqueflit...ts-KIT-1967-Valve-Bodies-/222939170733?_ul=PY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torqueflit...ts-KIT-1967-Valve-Bodies-/222939170733?_ul=PY
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