Transmission shifting issues....again. Help!

[Wietse]

A higher viscosity would bring up the pressure, check the specs of the currently used ATF (viscosity) and compare with others.
I assume you had no issues prior to repairs on the transmission?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

More of a question ,
Is it possible the change over to synthetic fluid on this older , not rebuilt transmission to be causing his problems ?
I know from personal experience that a switch to synthetic rear diff oil will cause old seals to leak that had not before the oil swap.
I'm prob nuts but I would try that can of trans X along with a switch back to some regular DeX 3 or type F.

The modern fluid isn't doing him any favors.. And I agree this is a case where mechanic in a can might help

 

[mopar 3 B]

All I use after a rebuild any more is ATF-4. All untouched dex III.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

All I use after a rebuild any more is ATF-4. All untouched dex III.

Has no bearing on an old trans...

Edit, I didn't see the part about DexIII so I Agree...

 

[Huicho417]

Thanks everyone I will purchase the trans x additive tomorrow and will let everyone know what the results are. I did go ahead and adjust the front and rear bands today just to eliminate that from my possible issues. I made a mess when removing the pan and it was a pain finding a socket to fit the square head stud. Luckily I found and 8 point 5/16 and it was a perfect fit.

 

[Huicho417]

Well darn, looking into recommendations for fluid type for my torqueflite and 9 out of 10 recommend not using atf+4. I have no idea where I got the recommendation to use the ATF +4. Apparently it’s a modern fluid for newer dodge transmissions. Also read that it may have detergents that the older 727’s may not like. Lots of online info also mentions that leaks are common when used in older transmissions, which mine is. And I do have about 4 drops that run down the pan when park it after a good run.

with that said what’s the best fluid to use in older 727 torqurflites?

 

[Wietse]

Most people recommend Dexron III type fluid from what i've come across.
There is also 1 type from Ford, i believe that was called Mercon/Mecron but not sure what type.

 

[F4R/T]

B&M trick shift is actually Type F rebottled I was told . I’m sure it’s a little tweaked , I haven’t tried it. I was told on the fluid to use ATF4 , I’m reconsidering my thought and just using what it calls for. I have only used Dex in my old stuff.

 

[dvw]

The bands have ZERO to do with 3rd gear. If you would take the time to check governor pressure that would be a start. The governor and governor seal rings can be accessed without removing the trans. If the 2/3 shift valve is stuck it can be accessed as well. As long as the reaction shaft support rings and the front clutch seals are ok you should be able to repair this in the car. But wasting time adjusting the bands and adding magic liquid is not the answer.
Doug

 

[Huicho417]

Ok... update from today’s cruise. As mentioned earlier I did adjust both front and rear bands. This morning I purchased the trans x additive and poured half the bottle into the transmission. My round trip today was a total of 22 miles and the car ran much better. I did not have any issues of it not shifting into second or third. Overall I would say my shifting is at about 80%. I did notice several times that the shift to third was a little forced, but maybe that’s how the transmission is.

Not sure if it was the band adjustment or trans x that made the difference. I will pour the rest of the bottle and maybe that will make the shift to third even better. Thanks to everyone again for all the recommendations!

 

[Ron H]

I've always used the fluid ma mopar recommended..

 

[F4R/T]

Trans problems usually don’t disappear without a needed repair. I have to say it maybe a wise idea to get some trans pressure gauges, fsm, and check the pressures and various points .. I’ve worked on the flites, they are very durable trans and handle neglect and abuse better than anything currently on the market. If I recall trans x makes the seals kinda swell to help make it go.. Please correct me if I’m wrong but I think in my experience I would consult the fsm and go... Don’t be afraid to pull it, or at least pressure and air test the various circuits in it. Over haul kits are not much, torque converters either.. it beats walking and a call for a hook. Good luck!

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Trans problems usually don’t disappear without a needed repair. I have to say it maybe a wise idea to get some trans pressure gauges, fsm, and check the pressures and various points .. I’ve worked on the flites, they are very durable trans and handle neglect and abuse better than anything currently on the market. If I recall trans x makes the seals kinda swell to help make it go.. Please correct me if I’m wrong but I think in my experience I would consult the fsm and go... Don’t be afraid to pull it, or at least pressure and air test the various circuits in it. Over haul kits are not much, torque converters either.. it beats walking and a call for a hook. Good luck!

Trans X does cause the seals to swell, sometimes it helps, often it causes more problems than it fixes... I agree, the O/P needs to plan to either go through it himself or pay to have it done... I think anyone with reasonable mechanical skills can doo the job... I rebuilt my first 727 when I was 16.. There was no helpful guys on the internet... There was a 1968 Factory shop manual & thats about it... I got it done & it worked... I got the clutch clearances to tight & it had a shift overlap, it lasted about a year... But I learned allot & I did that trans a second time when I was 17... That time it worked great & lasted over twenty years...

 

[mopar 3 B]

Did my first a 18 the same way on a 55 gal drum in the driveway. It lasted two years mainly due to abuse.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Did my first a 18 the same way on a 55 gal drum in the driveway. It lasted two years mainly due to abuse.

Well yeah, that too..

 

[Huicho417]

If I continue having issues my plan is to purchase a replacement 727. I don’t want to remove it, spend time and money on rebuilding it, reinstall and find out I did something wrong. Any recommendations on where to get a new new one? I’m sure there are some available that may even have some upgrades from the older technology? Do they make any with overdrive?

 

[mopar 3 B]

If I continue having issues my plan is to purchase a replacement 727. I don’t want to remove it, spend time and money on rebuilding it, reinstall and find out I did something wrong. Any recommendations on where to get a new new one? I’m sure there are some available that may even have some upgrades from the older technology? Do they make any with overdrive?

Nothing that is a direct fit on the over drive. Would be best to just have the one you have rebuilt. Should only be a day job for a good shop.

 

[F4R/T]

Trans O/H kits are minimal for stock rebuild, a quality converter is key. You would need a factory service manual, a few snap ring pliers, a few large and quality C clamps , trans assembly lube and good fluid and go. If you can pull it you can rebuild it! I did my first in my mid teens and it was fine for many years. Just buy quality made in USA parts.. Or go the rebuild route and check around , cleanliness is a requirement!

 

[Curiousyellow71]

It sounds like the seals are barely working probably hard and brittle from age. 727 is the easiest automatic to work on.

. I rebuilt my first 727 when I was 16.. There was no helpful guys on the internet... There was a 1968 Factory shop manual & thats about it... I got it done & it worked... I got the clutch clearances to tight & it had a shift overlap, it lasted about a year... ..

I did my first 727 with Dad when I was 15. Didn't check the gear lube in the rearend and a tooth broke off locked the rearend going 100ish and exploded the transmission.. it was a site to behold watching all the parts fly out of the smoke cloud (my brother was driving... passed us and it happened 300 ft ahead of us). I was 17...everyone was OK but we ruined the rearend, driveshaft, trans and the entire exhaust system..took a bit to get it back running again, so my first 727 literally went with a bang.

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

Ok... update from today’s cruise...
Not sure if it was the band adjustment or trans x that made the difference..

To those that really understand a TF, can band adjustment be responsible for higher 2-3 shift point when hot? (I'd think not, and that is more about line pressures and/or old leaky seals.)