1 Wild R/T
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Through the stem, but as Greg has seen a through the stem type can be bulky for some jobs... It'll work, but bulky..
Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger
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that nub...i took a flap disc and removed it smooth
watermelon
watermelon
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Watermelon...I cut the nub off with a rotary wheel.
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The left edge was a bit wavy. I straightened it out with a hammer and dolly.
The rearmost edge of the opening was cut to the edge of the torsion bar crossmember.
The rearmost edge of the opening was cut to the edge of the torsion bar crossmember.
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Test fit of the console.
I'll have to make a support bracket for the middle mount and the front one as well.
Now to test fit the console plate. I read on another forum that a guy modified an Automatic trans console plate to work with the 4 speed shifter.
with the console in the stock location and the center cut out of the stock automatic trans console plate, this is what you get.
This is with the trans in neutral. The hole is too far to the rear.
I'll have to make a support bracket for the middle mount and the front one as well.
Now to test fit the console plate. I read on another forum that a guy modified an Automatic trans console plate to work with the 4 speed shifter.
with the console in the stock location and the center cut out of the stock automatic trans console plate, this is what you get.
This is with the trans in neutral. The hole is too far to the rear.
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I need a measurement from an owner of a 66-70 B body owner with a console and a 4 speed. I need to know the distance from the front edge of the plate to the opening and to the rear of the opening, similar to these photos:
This one below is from a guy that said he modified an automatic version:
This one below is from a guy that said he modified an automatic version:
From the pictures I'd say 1.5" to 1.75" the 4 speed hole is further forward. Just lookat the bend in the cover.
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There are 3 ways to go here as far as I can think of.
1) Find a stock 4 speed console plate.
This is the most sensible option though these parts are not easy to find and can be quite expensive if I did.
2) Move the console forward.
This would require extending the rearmost bracket. See below. Cardboard template for demonstration purposes only.
3) Move the shift lever to the rear.
The factory Pistol Grip shifter is not a direct fit to this transmission, SST included an adapter that moves the shifter rearward about 1 1/2" already.
I am going to call SST tomorrow to see if the bracket in the above picture is the correct one. Maybe they have different ones for 66-70 B, 71-71 B, E body cars, etc. A bracket with about 1 1/2" more offset to the rear would be enough.
The first option is actually the most sensible one.
1) Find a stock 4 speed console plate.
This is the most sensible option though these parts are not easy to find and can be quite expensive if I did.
2) Move the console forward.
This would require extending the rearmost bracket. See below. Cardboard template for demonstration purposes only.
3) Move the shift lever to the rear.
The factory Pistol Grip shifter is not a direct fit to this transmission, SST included an adapter that moves the shifter rearward about 1 1/2" already.
I am going to call SST tomorrow to see if the bracket in the above picture is the correct one. Maybe they have different ones for 66-70 B, 71-71 B, E body cars, etc. A bracket with about 1 1/2" more offset to the rear would be enough.
The first option is actually the most sensible one.
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PG Classics $345 for ribbed 4 speed plate. Scroll slowly screen is blank then plate appear, slow and weird. https://pgclassic.com/console-plates/
r4sedan
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Damn, isn't that pistol grip handle about the sexiest thing.
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The RobbMC Performance .014 offset dowels came in today. That is great service!
With the stumbling block regarding the shifter and console plate being temporarily unsolved, I moved onto the tunnel patch work.
There were no instructions on how to shape or build it, just a flat piece of sheet metal with a rectangular hole in it. That dent you see was in the panel when I got it. No biggie....
I started bending it to shape than stopped and decided to use a piece of cardboard to make a template.
With the stumbling block regarding the shifter and console plate being temporarily unsolved, I moved onto the tunnel patch work.
There were no instructions on how to shape or build it, just a flat piece of sheet metal with a rectangular hole in it. That dent you see was in the panel when I got it. No biggie....
I started bending it to shape than stopped and decided to use a piece of cardboard to make a template.
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My main concern was...Will the tunnel patch interfere with the console...?
The patch will clear just fine.
The patch will clear just fine.
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I punched holes around the sides and front. The rearmost edge will get edge welded...Do you call those "Fillet" welds?
The wiggly lines represented areas to NOT punch holes. I planned to hold the patch in place with self tapping screws and those lines are where the transmission had bumps I wanted to avoid touching.
Checking fitment with and holding it down with screws.
I will pull it back off to clear off the paint so I get good welds. I'll weld through the punched holes.
This is a picture I found of another tunnel patch:
The wiggly lines represented areas to NOT punch holes. I planned to hold the patch in place with self tapping screws and those lines are where the transmission had bumps I wanted to avoid touching.
Checking fitment with and holding it down with screws.
I will pull it back off to clear off the paint so I get good welds. I'll weld through the punched holes.
This is a picture I found of another tunnel patch:
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Prego!
Errr, or something really good like that...
Errr, or something really good like that...
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Yours looks prettier.
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Next up: Measuring for the drive shaft!
As I mentioned before, I used the tall screw jacks to support the car.
See the small gap? The car is safe. I am not suicidal after all....
Before I put the car on the stands, I measured the drive shaft distance as directed by SST in their instructions.....THEN I checked the distance with the car's weight on the stands. The number I got with the axle at full droop was 58 9/16". Want to guess what the difference was with the car on the stands?
As I mentioned before, I used the tall screw jacks to support the car.
See the small gap? The car is safe. I am not suicidal after all....
Before I put the car on the stands, I measured the drive shaft distance as directed by SST in their instructions.....THEN I checked the distance with the car's weight on the stands. The number I got with the axle at full droop was 58 9/16". Want to guess what the difference was with the car on the stands?
3/8" farther out trans. 58 15/16"
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IT WAS THE SAME !
Heh heh heh....ALL of these years I have heard people say that you have to measure with the car on it's tires, that is the critical number to get. Drive shaft shops tell you this, people on internet forums say it but I got the same 58 9/16" number both ways.
Why?
Maybe because my suspension has less travel than stock? They are 440/Hemi springs and the rear sway bar limits the downward travel a bit. Regardless, this was an interesting little tidbit to learn.
The stock drive shaft was 52" center to center. This Tremec is 6 1/2" shorter than the 727 !
Heh heh heh....ALL of these years I have heard people say that you have to measure with the car on it's tires, that is the critical number to get. Drive shaft shops tell you this, people on internet forums say it but I got the same 58 9/16" number both ways.
Why?
Maybe because my suspension has less travel than stock? They are 440/Hemi springs and the rear sway bar limits the downward travel a bit. Regardless, this was an interesting little tidbit to learn.
The stock drive shaft was 52" center to center. This Tremec is 6 1/2" shorter than the 727 !
1 Wild R/T
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3/8" difference is not the same... I will agree it doesn't change as much as you might expect but it does change.. Strange your axle gets closer to the trans as it is raised... I'm guessing your springs don't have allot of arch?
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A forum member helped me out with a measurement on the 4 speed console plate.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ents-66-70-b-body-console-and-4-speed.210876/
Here is mine again....
Here is a stock 4 speed plate.
This clears things up. Now I'm going to search for a good USED 4 speed console plate. I still plan to sandblast and paint them.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ents-66-70-b-body-console-and-4-speed.210876/
Here is mine again....
Here is a stock 4 speed plate.
This clears things up. Now I'm going to search for a good USED 4 speed console plate. I still plan to sandblast and paint them.
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