True Serpentine belt install on a BB mopar

[Grabinov911]

I'm assuming you haven't bought the kit yet and are just measuring it up? If you want I can measure a few things.

Yup. I'm trying to figure out how much room is going to be left for an electric fan/shroud unit. I actually thought that switching to a serpentine system was going to give me MORE room for the fans, but because of the position of the pulleys, it looks like I'll actually have less. As you point out, my furthest forward belt is the water pump pulley, which is a single groove pulley and which is recessed over the pump flange. With the serpentine system, I think I may loos about 3/4" of space, and rather than being tight only in the center as is the stock system (everything else is behind the water pump belt), it will be pushed forward 3/4" for the entire width of the engine.

The compressor I have is also a Sanden 508. It's 8 3/8" from the rear bolt to the front of the clutch (in my case with a 2-groove pulley). Given your spare 1/4" behind the compressor, your serpentine belt must be about 8 3/8" + 1/4" from the front of the head, or about 8 5/8"

 

[747mopar]

You can figure on everything being pretty close to even with the nose of the water pump. Running dual fans the power steering pump is the tightest spot, the A/C pump is positioned where it's not as much of an issue. Had I just bought the individual fans and made my own shroud it would have made more room.

 

[747mopar]

Nice to have a quality vender SD Concepts onsite helping you/us too...

stand up guy/co. it sounds like

From what little I've spoke to him Jerry is a great guy that's open to any suggestions or input, wish him luck with the takeoff of the serpentine kit.

 

[sdconcepts]

it looks like the serpentine belt pulley is about 1/2 further forward than an equivalent 4 rib v belt pulley. the water pump pulley does stick out a little ahead of that but, that can be minimized with added machining if need be. we are willing to customize any part you may need to get this kit to fit on your car. pricing will depend on the mod but do try and keep it affordable.

 

[747mopar]

 

[747mopar]

Here's another pic I don't think I posted but you can see I countersunk the water pump pulley bolts, that's all the extra space I needed there.

 

[747mopar]

Figured I'd update the thread since I've been able to rack up some miles, hammering on it as well and I've yet to hear that belt squeal. Clearances seam to be holding and the temps are good but I do have one issue. My power steering is really weak at idle, my old Saginaw did the exact same thing and was just worn out....... should have checked the mileage on the Jeep I nabbed it from.

 

[Grabinov911]

Here's another pic I don't think I posted but you can see I countersunk the water pump pulley bolts, that's all the extra space I needed there.

THAT is a good idea! So clearly the thickness of the water pump adapter is enough that you were able to get a bolt head (say 3/16" thick) machined all the way down into it. That must be a thick piece of aluminum!

I can see in one of your prior posts BEFORE you countersunk the bolts.

 

[Grabinov911]

Working with Jerry at SD Concepts I was trying to figure out if I needed to buy a new AC compressor in order to use the serpentine system. There were two issues:

Is the Sanden 508 compressor that I have (purchased from Bouchillon) the same as the one used in the SD Concepts Kit? Looking at 747's compressor and description, the compressors appear the same.

Can I change the 2-groove pulley that is on my compressor out for a serpentine style pulley? Short answer, yes. See these links:

Ask the question: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/91459-Sanden-508-Compressor-Question

Show you how:

Buy the part: http://marchperformance.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=p475

The problem is that the replacement serpentine pulley (with clutch) is about $130.00. For that price, if you also need to buy any of the tools, you almost might as well just buy (or salvage) a new compressor w the right 7-groove pulley on it.

 

[747mopar]

I had a 2 groove pulleys as well, changed it out lickidy split but it does require a puller. You can buy the whole pump with the 7 groove pulley brand new from Summit for $180-190 so it really doesn't make a lot of sense to buy just the pulley.

 

[sdconcepts]

the water pump adapter is thick so that the stock magnum pulley bolts to it from the rear. need enough room for thread engagement. the billet water pump pulley is thinner with recessed bolts. now if you need to go even thinner that can be done, and then you could use counter sunk screws in it. I had one customer machine theirs flat so he could use a mechanical fan. that worked too. but you need a reverse rotation fan.

 

[747mopar]

Figured I'd update the thread.... I've put hundreds of miles on the new setup so far and can say I've yet to hear a belt squeal and have yet to throw a belt while blowing the tires off so mission accomplished. Now the bad news, I ran into a minor flaw in the setup. I started noticing what sounded like a dry bearing so I removed the belt and started checking the accessories, tensioner and idler when I noticed the water pump pulley wiggled a good bit (pulley loose on adapter). I suspected it had came loose so I pulled it off but everything was still tight, turns out the bolts supplied in the kit were bottomed out in the adapter. Only thing I can figure is the fresh paint was just enough to make it feel tight (cause I checked it) but with enough miles the paint wore off leaving it loose. Simple fix, ran a bottoming tap in the holes... problem solved. Still very happy with it

 

[Budnicks]

I think I posted something about this subject before
I have 2 separate 6 rib belts the one on my
{GM style} power-steering pump
for a Unisteer rack & pinion, it's tight & it needed a idler pulley,
to keep the belt off the w/p
{mounted off top right side of the w/p, w-a 1/4" 7075 flat piece of alum & proper spacer}
the other shorter belt runs my alternator, both are stand alone
& I run 2 electric fans,
1) pusher 13" 2900cfm just in case, rarely use it, but good if needed
in front of the 22" 4 core down flow Mancini Alum custom rad &
1) 16" puller 2900cfm in a custom shroud, it's tight too
& I also use a 37gpm electric water pump,
in an Mopar alum w/p housing too...

so far so good, If I was to do it again I'd do a low mount alt,
so I could add A/C where the alt. was org., no plans for A/C thou...

sorry for the crappy photography

 

[747mopar]

I think I posted something about this subject before
I have 2 separate 6 rib belts the one on my
{GM style} power-steering pump
for a Unisteer rack & pinion, it's tight & it needed a idler pulley,
to keep the belt off the w/p
{mounted off top right side of the w/p, w-a 1/4" 7075 flat piece of alum & proper spacer}
the other shorter belt runs my alternator, both are stand alone
& I run 2 electric fans,
1) pusher 13" 2900cfm just in case, rarely use it, but good if needed
in front of the 22" 4 core down flow Mancini Alum custom rad &
1) 16" puller 2900cfm in a custom shroud, it's tight too
& I also use a 37gpm electric water pump,
in an Mopar alum w/p housing too...

so far so good, If I was to do it again I'd do a low mount alt,
so I could add A/C where the alt. was org., no plans for A/C thou...

sorry for the crappy photography
View attachment 349034
View attachment 349037
View attachment 349039

If I had a do over it would have been moving the radiator in front of the support when I was building the car.... major pain being so cramped for space. How do you like the unisteer?

 

[Budnicks]

If I had a do over it would have been moving the radiator in front of the support when I was building the car.... major pain being so cramped for space. How do you like the unisteer?

If I had to do it again, I'd do a front steer, Mustang II box &
flip flop the ball joints left to right/side to side,
fab up my own mounts & shaft etc., far more pan & header room that way
But;
I like the way it steers, great feedback, real precise, not to easy
had to do a bump-steer correction, spacing @ the ball joint ends etc.
won't turn as tight of a circle either {as OE}, no big deal it's tight enough
{It's an Omni style rear-steer box, reverse rotation so it can't go forward of the axle line}
{OE HP manifolds or S/S man. fit no problems though}
But;
Really limited on Headers {oil pans too} though too,
only out of the box headers that fit are TTI 383178C {IIRC}
no big deal I'm building a set of swept up & down the back
{kind of like like ol' S/S MW style manifolds}
but with stepped up & back 1-3/4 at the head to 1-7/8 in the bends down to 2" by the firewall
into a 4-2-1 Flowmasters Scavengers/merg collector "custom headers"

yeah now that I have a lift off 69.5 A12 pinned hood
I could have easily moved the rad in front of the core support too...
It fits but it's tights now, shoulda woulda coulda...

 

[747mopar]

Figured with the interest in this setup I'd update the thread. I've put thousands of miles on the serpentine setup now and am very happy with it. The salvage yard power steering pump was the reasoning for the week power steering, I smelt rubber burning while cruising one afternoon and found a very hot power steering pulley so I put a new pump on and everything has been perfect ever since. Everything is staying tight, no issues with the belt and it still looks purdy!

 

[Derwud]

Had to bring this back up from the Dead.. Getting ready to install my kit.. Just need to purchase the P/S pump and A/C compressor.

 

[747mopar]

Had to bring this back up from the Dead.. Getting ready to install my kit.. Just need to purchase the P/S pump and A/C compressor.

Be aware of the cheap knock off Saden look alike pumps.

 

[Derwud]

Just an update, Flow Kooler pumps do not work with this set-up... Off to order the Milodon.

 

[sdconcepts]

whats wrong with the flow kooler pump? ive not personally tried one, but a few guys who bought kits did and said they worked. what issues are you running into? sorry for butting in, but want to constantly be on top of improving our kits for everyones benefit.