74Runneer
Well-Known Member
They were brand new about a week before the swap. They are just cheap wires that i got for free, they all look to be in good condition
Turn the key and nothing happens..... HELP
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ok. keep messing with that dizzy timing while your buddy tries starting the car.
74Runneer
Well-Known Member
Okay im going to take a break until tomorrow morning. Anyone have anymore ideas? Uhh this is frustrating
Yep, I reckon he could just about do that....
I met him many years ago , and he sat in my car.
Finally found that pic I was talking about - it was at Jonah's sister-in-laws wedding a few years ago. My buddy took his Challenger WSS, and me in the GTX.
He is huge in real life....made my buddy Brett look like a garden gnome
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ok, first thing tomorrow morning, get a damn matchbook cover and check that air gap on the dizzy.
Jonnyuma
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Disconnect (and plug) the vac line to the advance can. If you have it connected to manifold vacuum (some people do that, although I've never gotten a cogent reason as to why. "It runs better that way." Ok, fine) its gonna mess you up: it adds an unnecessary variable into the mix. Also, I'm seeing the pictures on my phone so they're very small, but it looked like your ballast resistor was hooked up funny. You need to have a full 12 volts during cranking.
74Runneer
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I dont know why I was supposed to do that, I had it hooked up to the other one before (ported vacuum?) but Don from 4secondsflat.com said that i should forsure use the manifold vacuum. I bypassed my ballast resistor
Jonnyuma
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Well, some people do use manifold vacuum for thier advance, but the logic is lost on me and, like I said before, nobody has ever explained to me how having your automatic, hands-free advance (via vacuum) all in at idle makes any sense at all. I'd be happy to listen, just no one has ever offered.
Here's a story, since we're having a lull in the action...
Back when I was haulin' cars, my loads were about 90+% exotics, OEM prototypes, celeb cars, and classics. I pulled an enclosed trailer and there was a LARGE upcharge for that. Barrett-Jackson, celebrity car auctions, vintage poker run-type-ralleyes, SEMA show stuff, **** like that. (Seems like a dream gig, right? Reality bites) One of my most interesting pickups was a restored Model T Ford that you had to advance the spark by hand via a lever on the side of the steering column (there was also a hand throttle for setting the idle and, oh yeah, it was right hand drive. I had to pilot this alien onto my enclosed trailer, talk about a steep learning curve!). So I had this ancient man (spry, sure, but ancient nonetheless) teaching me how to drive his ancient car, keep it running, get a running start so I could make its 40 (or whatever) hp and 0 torque get it up into the trailer out in front of his Bel-Aire mini-mansion. I think me dumping the clutch with the revs at God-knows what while trying to keep the spark timing up, steer, aim for the trailer, don't crash, gotta stop when ya get on the lift platform, the brakes suck, the wheels are made of wood, oh ****, here we go, who's gonna have the heart attack first? Me or the old man? Could go either way...we both lived. And the car too.
The point is: vacuum advance was invented to handle spark advance, without having to do it manually, when you can't be there under the hood doing it by hand, ie: while driving. Connecting your vac adv to manifold vacuum applies maximum vacuum at idle, a time when you can easily advance/retard advance by hand by turning the distributor. Without a soliloquy on vacuum, suffice it to say, it makes no sense to me.
The End.
Here's a story, since we're having a lull in the action...
Back when I was haulin' cars, my loads were about 90+% exotics, OEM prototypes, celeb cars, and classics. I pulled an enclosed trailer and there was a LARGE upcharge for that. Barrett-Jackson, celebrity car auctions, vintage poker run-type-ralleyes, SEMA show stuff, **** like that. (Seems like a dream gig, right? Reality bites) One of my most interesting pickups was a restored Model T Ford that you had to advance the spark by hand via a lever on the side of the steering column (there was also a hand throttle for setting the idle and, oh yeah, it was right hand drive. I had to pilot this alien onto my enclosed trailer, talk about a steep learning curve!). So I had this ancient man (spry, sure, but ancient nonetheless) teaching me how to drive his ancient car, keep it running, get a running start so I could make its 40 (or whatever) hp and 0 torque get it up into the trailer out in front of his Bel-Aire mini-mansion. I think me dumping the clutch with the revs at God-knows what while trying to keep the spark timing up, steer, aim for the trailer, don't crash, gotta stop when ya get on the lift platform, the brakes suck, the wheels are made of wood, oh ****, here we go, who's gonna have the heart attack first? Me or the old man? Could go either way...we both lived. And the car too.
The point is: vacuum advance was invented to handle spark advance, without having to do it manually, when you can't be there under the hood doing it by hand, ie: while driving. Connecting your vac adv to manifold vacuum applies maximum vacuum at idle, a time when you can easily advance/retard advance by hand by turning the distributor. Without a soliloquy on vacuum, suffice it to say, it makes no sense to me.
The End.
After you check that airgap on the distributor I want you to check the voltage at the coil with your voltmeter while starting the car. Just want to double check that you are in fact getting 12v at the coil Hopefully you can have someone assist you while doing this. If you are doing this solo, you need to somehow get the voltmeter probes on the coil positive and negative terminals while at the same time using the remote starter to fire the car up. If you have alligator clips, or maybe binder clips or something that can hold those probes on the coil terminals while you fire the car up.
You said you are bypassing the ballast resistor, but just want to double check the coil voltage. I had a similar no start issue and the car sounded so close to firing up when I installed the Rev-anator on my car. I needed more volts going to the coil so I had to bypass the ballast resistor. Did this by soldering a jumper wire to bypass the resistor and problem solved, car fired right up.
You said you are bypassing the ballast resistor, but just want to double check the coil voltage. I had a similar no start issue and the car sounded so close to firing up when I installed the Rev-anator on my car. I needed more volts going to the coil so I had to bypass the ballast resistor. Did this by soldering a jumper wire to bypass the resistor and problem solved, car fired right up.
74Runneer
Well-Known Member
Yeah I've been worried about the voltage to the coil. Ill check that and the air gap.
74Runneer
Well-Known Member
Okay it said it only had .23v? I held the prongs on the coil terminals and then had my brother push the remote start button with the key in the run position. Wtf?
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Airgap was fine
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Airgap was fine
Someotherguy
Well-Known Member
try that same procedure using the key, not the remote...
74Runneer
Well-Known Member
Same exact thing
Damnit!! good point!!!
A ground issue? Triple check the grounds on the ignition system. How is the ECU box grounded on the firewall?
A ground issue? Triple check the grounds on the ignition system. How is the ECU box grounded on the firewall?
Someotherguy
Well-Known Member
I still think that aftermarket ignition needs to be removed and the oem ignition put back on it...
74Runneer
Well-Known Member
Its just bolted on, I sanded around the holes to bare wire and applied dielectric grease.
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Alright ill hook it up. I need to make some coffee first.
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Alright ill hook it up. I need to make some coffee first.
On both the ECU box and firewall, you sanded the paint off around the mounting holes so its bare metal to bare metal? On my ECU box I ran an additional ground wire from the ECU box to the firewall motor ground stud. As I've learned from everybody on here, you can never have enough grounds with these Mopars.
74Runneer
Well-Known Member
Yeah maybe ill have to do that but on the ecu diagnosis it said it had a good ground
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