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Turn the key and nothing happens..... HELP

Okay will this do any harm to the engine?

You can't harm the ECU with a temporary 12 Volt battery hook-up. It's the same as your ignition feed....just whip it off as soon as the engine is running. Just make sure you get the correct terminals on the ECU when you do it.
 
If you're getting less that 12 volts there you can run a jumper wire from the battery to the ecu side of the ballast resistor, that will eliminate the wiring harness, switch etc
 
So a jumper wire from the battery to the top left wire from the ballast resistor?
 
have you tried to start the car as normal(no jumper wires/etc) since you put the oem ignition back on it,,???????
 
ugh....
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oh good lord man :laughing6:

Honestly, i don't know what else to do for it sitting behind this computer....At this point i highly suggest that you take this car to a qualified mechanic...

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Do the same thing again. have your brother try and start the car with the key in the ignition while you advance/retard the distributor and watch out for the shooting flames.

Yes i did, still backfired
 
Okay Im having a friend come over in 10 mins and well test it. How many volts should be at the coil?
 
Okay so I tested how many volts at the coil with the battery charged and it read 8 volts.
 
That should be enough. Its my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong) that the stock Mopar igntion system needs at least 5v to be effective in firing the coil.

Okay so I tested how many volts at the coil with the battery charged and it read 8 volts.


I think I'm wrong on the above statement. With my 4 wire ballast resistor, I had to make a jumper wire so that the ballast resistor was bypassed on startup so that the ignition system was getting like 12v at startup. Going through the ballast resisitor I may have only been getting like 5-6v. Once the key is turned from the "run" position to the "on" position, the ballast resistor is reengaged and the voltage is lowered.

But your new ignition system is completely bypassing the ballast resistor, therefore, the ECU or something else must be controlling the volts going to the coil on startup.
 
Change it back to original or upgrade? I upgraded so I could run more initial advance for better performance.
 
How good is your spark? Pull the coil wire out of the top of the distributor hold it close to a ground, being careful that there isn't any gas lurking about, have you friend turn it over while you hold it. Should be a nice blue spark up to about a 1/4 inch away. Keep you fingers away from the end, use insulated pliers, leather gloves etc or you will get tagged. Also what is the voltage reading at the ecu side of the ballast resistor with the key on and also when you are trying to start it?
 
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