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Updating the Super Street Mopar

Last week I was able to get the trunk side of the tub secured to the floor. Added the USCT brace filler for the trunk hinge pillar, after I cut it in two and redid some of the bends to get it fitted better. Today I reset the brace I removed, goes between the diagonal floor to package tray stiffener. Also made up a couple of filler pieces to go between the floor and tub, got them welded in too. Once done with all of that, scrubbed the welded areas down with the stainless toothbrush and vacuumed the areas. After that, I hosed in some of the Eastwood inner frame protection to the welded areas for rust protection backup prior to tomorrows seam sealing. I took a picture of my modded Eastwood spray wand so you can see the change. The brass nozzle has multiple holes so it can do a 360* pattern. What I wanted was a jet to force the spray material into the seams. For that I used a 18-22ga butt connector that is partially squished down. Worked great.

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For some reason, my garage smells heavily of polymer paint materials. Wonder how that happened? Ha! I put the seam sealer on today. Used up a tube and a half. Coming soon, cleaning off parts for POR15 and other rust treatments application followed by loading springs/sway bar/diff in for good. Hopefully.

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Today I did some blasting. After a couple of hiccups to deal with on the cabinet, pressure hose to gun popped/replaced it with a piece of 1/2" a/c barrier hose as thats all I had in that size that would take the pressure, then the hopper feed hose kept kinking. I pulled it out and found a spring that fit inside to stop the kink. Then the lh glove came undone from its holder, got it dealt with. Once housekeeping was in order, I blasted the spring/shock plates, shackles, rod ends and adjusters for the sway bar. After I got the plates cleaned off I had a look at the shock stud. The studs sometimes pop loose so I figured, what the heck and threw some welds on. One less thing to worry about down the road. Tomorrow I'll continue getting pieces cleaned off and ready for some paint.

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****Don't take any of the following for criticism!****

I've seen when people post up something they have done that some members don't understand or appreciate the effort and the member posts something rude like....
Gee....you must have a lot of time on your hands.
My comments are NOT meant to come across like that. I'm just curious so keep that in mind....
I see that you're going to extreme measures with this car, stuff that is so far outside of OEM, it clearly takes skill and determination to complete.
There are some things that I see that seem to be overkill for a prepped street car. I see stuff that maybe 1% of other guys would ever notice once the car is on the road.
I wonder if all of this effort is as much a matter of tinkering and flexing your Mental Mopar Muscles as it is to maximize the abilities of the car.
In other words, are you spending this much time and effort just to tinker and have fun or do you think the upgrades will really allow the car to shine when pushed hard on the street?
Again, this is not criticism. It is curiosity.
I push my car pretty hard sometimes but all I have is welded frame connectors, torque boxes and reinforced K member and lower control arms. You've gone way beyond that.
If you mentioned it, I missed it....what are your goals for the car?
 
I want to be able to run the car at Buttonwillow, Willow Springs and some other road courses. Along with autocross and an occasional drag strip run. Famous and Buttonwillow are 2hrs away plus or minus, Willow is 3-4. On top of that, I want to have fun pushing[ as in driving] the car on winding roads. Much of what I'm doing most likely is overkill but as I'm working on it, I'm looking at possible upgrades while I'm working on the specific task at hand plus what's coming later as I progress in the work. I'm trying to think ahead about what I'm currently doing, what's coming later and how to best utilize my time, energy and funds. I hate having to redo something because it was not thought through ahead of time. One of the many reasons I'm such an information whore. Articles, tech books, manufacture catalogs, car shows, races, how did someone do whatever etc.
As far as time on my hands, I'm somewhat retired since I had the neurosurgery done. I'm on SS, my wife works part time for a construction company doing office work. 3 days a week I shuttle her to work and then fetch her at the end of her day. Since I'm home the most, I take care of the kids, yard work, vacuuming, dishes, some of the cooking, some of the laundry etc. It's only fair. Once I'm doing doing the chores, then its car time. On her off days if nothing is planned or she needs me for honey do's, it's 65 time. We are down to one vehicle, my dually, for transpo since her Flex needed some expensive work done on it that I did not have the skills or equipment for so it was sold to the local Ford dealer. I'm on the hunt for a wagon as I want to replace my truck with it. Haven't really used the truck as intended so seems kinda dopey, only took 19 years, to have it plus my honey can't drive it. Not enough left leg for the clutch and not used to driving something that big. After the truck is gone, we'll hunt down an older classic of her liking that can be maintained in house. We try to live very frugally so we constantly look for ways to save. Having older rides will cut down on DMV expenses. Next year, I'm going to put my SS on hold and try to work full time again. Can't do it this year as we're already going to get hammered for taxes due to the retirement funds we drained to pay for legal fees on the FFN arbitration hearing. Still not done with that.
Most of what I'm doing on the car currently, I've had the parts/materials for over 6 years, so there's not any outlay there. Just some simple stuff like welding gas, filler wire, pieces of sheetmetal. I try to contain expenses by not outsourcing as much as possible. Like the upper hoop for the t-bar crossmember. Instead of having someone bend up material, I used the rectangle tube I already had. Figured out contours, make many slits in it, form it around till it worked for what I needed, welded it up, ground it down, welded it it. It's not a work of art but it will work great there.
I don't take offense to your observations one bit. There are most likely many others thinking the same thoughts. For some people, when I run down what I've done/have coming for later etc, some get it but many others get a glaze over their eyes. So I generally just do a 20k' view of what's happening.
 
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Plus there was a 5+ year span of it just sitting from before we moved till we got here and had the garage built. Gotta get crackin on it!
 
Here is an example of my info ho stash which I just got. Freebie btw. Some years ago, Jeff Smith[ before hotrod/car craft etc RETIRED him] mentioned this place in one of his tech articles. They have quite a bit of stuff than can crossover to autos. Hardware, adhesives, electrical, materials etc. I'm a firm believer in looking at other industries to find the widget that will get you what you want on your project. I've gone to the Tulare Farm Show for example. Found all sorts of neat Ag stuff that can be used on cars.

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Getting some POR15 applied today. Just brushing it on, saves from overspray hassles. The material is fairly thin so if someone were to spray it, it's probably ready as is. I figured it would be thick but this works out. It does appear to be self leveling which is great.

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Getting some POR15 applied today. Just brushing it on, saves from overspray hassles. The material is fairly thin so if someone were to spray it, it's probably ready as is. I figured it would be thick but this works out. It does appear to be self leveling which is great.

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How did it turn out? Just received mine today, will be using soon.
 
From my experience, POR has no UV protection to it and may dull out quickly. I’ve only used it as a base that gets covered by primer and paint. This is the first time that I have seen it used on suspension components.
Good luck.
 
It flowed out fine, was not sure if the brush strokes would show but its all good. I have about the same time in for parts as you. Just not much heavy unless you count Isuzu. Split between stores and dealers. To me, working at a store is like being a short order cook. Knock out stuff quick with a vast menu. Dealer parts is way more in depth, focused on a specific make unless it's a multiline dealer. The only domestic I have not done was Ford. Oriental did 80% of those and about the same on Euro. On an earlier post Greg mentioned flexing my Mopar muscles. I would check stuff out, on my between customer time, to see if I could use other parts for improvements on the cars. I would take in a tape measure or pair of dial calipers to check stuff out. While the vast majority of my co-workers were not car guys/gearheads, I couldn't get enough. When I worked at a Benz dealer in the mid 80's, I was starting to check out the trim clips MB used to see if they would fit my stuff.
On the POR15 not having any UV protection, you are correct Greg. For underneath or areas that are covered up, it will be fine. I will be using it in the engine compartment as my base protection before doing filler/primer/color.
 
I applied the material to the topside of the springs then figured, what the heck. I scrubbed some of the underside where I've been working and got some 15 applied there too. Will do the second go around here in a bit. Tomorrow I'll jack up the back end of the car, just ahead of the springs, and pull the cribbing out of the back end. Its in the way of me getting 15 applied to the shackle area.

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It flowed out fine, was not sure if the brush strokes would show but its all good. I have about the same time in for parts as you. Just not much heavy unless you count Isuzu. Split between stores and dealers. To me, working at a store is like being a short order cook. Knock out stuff quick with a vast menu. Dealer parts is way more in depth, focused on a specific make unless it's a multiline dealer. The only domestic I have not done was Ford. Oriental did 80% of those and about the same on Euro. On an earlier post Greg mentioned flexing my Mopar muscles. I would check stuff out, on my between customer time, to see if I could use other parts for improvements on the cars. I would take in a tape measure or pair of dial calipers to check stuff out. While the vast majority of my co-workers were not car guys/gearheads, I couldn't get enough. When I worked at a Benz dealer in the mid 80's, I was starting to check out the trim clips MB used to see if they would fit my stuff.
On the POR15 not having any UV protection, you are correct Greg. For underneath or areas that are covered up, it will be fine. I will be using it in the engine compartment as my base protection before doing filler/primer/color.
[/
Checked the beginning of your thread this morning… wow!! You have done some great work ckessel. Also read an about your surgery, hoping each day is better, than the day before. I’m enjoying your thread, getting closer with each day. Your building one hell of car! Isuzu nameplate, two years ago
 
Before I removed the cribbing, I shot some undercoating onto the wheel side of the tub. Need to get more but at least the first load is on. After moving the cribbing I put the first load of 15 onto the shackle area, let the lift down, then hopped inside and applied some to the topside of the tubs. In a few hours I'll put the second coat on.

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Today I put the new urethane bushings into the springs. Old ones had the 2" opening for the original springs, new HD units were 1.5". Will keep the old urethane units in reserve in case I need them for another project. From there I wrestled the diff outside to get as much of the rust off as possible prior to POR15 application.

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Also seen you have Parts experience. Been in heavy truck parts business for 37 years

I pulled wrenches on Class 8 trucks and trailers for 30 years and I've spent the past 15 years on the parts and service side of the trucking industry. While my GTX is mostly stock, my '58 Apache has a lot of bits and pieces that you'd normally find on big trucks.
 
Yesterday I was able to finish scrubbing off any of the rust that could be gotten at without full disassembly of the unit. I took the wheel bolts[ these screw into the axle flange] out, used a hamburger wheel on the axle flange to clean off rust so when the rotor goes on, it's flat. Cleaned the threads of the bolts, put them back in with some red loctits. Removed the cover, cleaned off the sealing surfaces, blasted the cover, cleaned it off then coated it with Sharkhide for protection. Today I'm painting the diff with POR15.

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