icetech
Well-Known Member
Are you planning to weld the flange to the firewall or seam seal it or?
Updating the Super Street Mopar
- Thread starter ckessel
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ckessel
Well-Known Member
Put it on with screws and a seal. Once I determine where the screws will be, I'll put in some Nutserts. Paint the Nutsert with POR15 and crimp it in while wet. Not welding it will allow me to get some rust protection into the inner cowl area.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Today was successful. Got the firewall portion of the duct made.
How will it handle engine vibration? You might want to leave a gap between the air cleaner and the cowl duct and bridge the gap with a rubber seal…
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Going to have about 1/4" or so gap between after I trim the aluminum. I'll get ahold of an inner tube and cut a strip out, 2" wide or so and wrap that around for a seal. Tie the ends together with some sort of latch/buckle unit.
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I wondered about that too. Any engine with any level of performance camshaft will vibrate at idle. Any hard shift will jerk the engine around too. This will result in chipped paint or broken welds if there isn't some sort of cushion somewhere.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Using a cloth tape, I got 42" for the wrap. Figure cut a 4' strip, 2" wide, so there is some material to wrap back around whatever I use to cinch the ends together.
I marked and trimmed the aluminum housing so all is groovy now on gap.
I marked and trimmed the aluminum housing so all is groovy now on gap.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I wrapped up the air filter a couple of days ago. I'm going to wait on coating it until I put the fenders and hood on for a check fit. I should be ok but want to make sure. Had a b-day last week so I spent the gift funds I received on my fuel tank. Using an MU-2HT from Tanks Inc. Universal 22 gal, EFI ready early Mustang. I have test fitted a regular Mustang tank in the area last year so I know I'm fine, other than I need to modify the floor which was already planned anyway. It came in on Monday and looks fine, shipping wise. Yesterday I went to a local rod guy who has a stomp shear. I measured and marked out some 18ga hot rolled sheet material I have. Was initially thinking to use 16ga but didn't have enough and figured 20ga may be too light. I thought up a way to hold the tank which is what you'll see. The sides are long so there is enough material to trim if need be. After cleaning the cut pieces with Acetone to de-slime them, I roughed up the material with the carbide bristle drum on the SCT unit. From there I put each piece into the sheetmetal brake and bent a 90* flange 1.25" wide for the tank flange to rest on. Ground the welds on the outside down till it was time to knock off and feed the kids. Tomorrow I'll hit the welds on the inside corners to get them flattened out. After that I'll set the tank into the nest and mark holes to drill so I can weld 1/4" flange nuts on the bottom side for tank mounting. I was initially thinking to use nutserts but didn't want the possibility of one or more spinning in the hole at a later time. I'll make up a seal/cushion to put between the tank and nest to prevent rub through.
icetech
Well-Known Member
Damn that's a good idea for going EFI.. and i always liked how ford mounts their tanks
ckessel
Well-Known Member
The engine I got from Indy is EFI from the get. I like the adjustability of multi port, sequential. Further on I'll make a lid to go over the top of the unit for protection and accessibility in case a pump/sender/gasket etc needs to be replaced. I'll most likely put some dimple died holes in the vertical wall of the nest to help vent out any potential fumes. I do plan on using a charcoal canister too for fumes.
icetech
Well-Known Member
Very cool
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Today I marked out where the holes needed to be to bolt the tank to the nest. Drilled them out, ground off the burrs, ground the welds in the inner corners. Rustled up 15 1/4" bolts, got the flange nuts on, welded the nuts to the nest. Also here is a picture of the somewhat finished filter unit.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Starting with the bay, back of the hood[ after stripping], back of the doors[ after stripping], hinge pillars and side cowl[ after stripping], door jambs[ after stripping] and back of trunk lid[ after stripping] plus some other pieces, I'll put it back to the Ruby Red Poly which is the stock color. I saw a nice LARGE paint chip[ full size car] at the Spring Fling this year, so that sealed it. The filter housing will be black powder coat, engine[ since its aluminum] will get flat DTM clear, headers black either flat or satin. I want to get all of the inner areas color changed so down the road I can only deal with the outer areas. The trim pieces, bumpers, grille, wheels and some other items, I want to use a bronze Cerrakote on them. I'm thinking that will be a nice contrast.
icetech
Well-Known Member
Very cool.. will be awesome.. love the back tires on that too
ckessel
Well-Known Member
My current choice on wheels are ET Lola units. 18" diameter with 8-10" on front and 10-12" on the rear. Can Am period units, love the old Can Am series, which hits in the mid to late 60's. Widths to be determined for front and rear down the road. May change my wheel choice later too but this is my current.
E-T Lola Gun Metal Finish
E-T Lola Gun Metal Finish
icetech
Well-Known Member
I have never seen those before, will be interesting to see how they look on the car... I still need front rims.. too cheap to order some 
I want these... staying with black steelies in back
I want these... staying with black steelies in back
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Thats a nice classic look. Wheels are very subjective on choice. Many things to think about on how they would look. Like a gal accessorizing her outfit. I sometimes see at shows a very nice car but the wheels are heinous and detract from the look. But the owner likes it so thats all that matters. I keep my opinions to myself. I have tossed around some 18" aluminum versions of steel wheels and use dog dish caps. But those are well over a grand each. No thanks. I'm wanting to keep below the grand per threshold. I do like the ones from Forgeline but those are MASSIVLY expensive. Lots of choices to be had out there for sure. I need to run at least 17's due to my brake package. Tire size/rating choices for 17's are minimal. Not so for 18's. I also want to avoid the cartoonish HotWheels look.
icetech
Well-Known Member
Yeah.. for me a '62 has really limited choices even compared to a 64-65.. i think torque thrust on front or alum slots are bout it.. I could see drag stars and stuff for a drag car though, specially after seeing how heavy my wheel vintique steels are.. WTF..
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